Ghostrider

This is very likely to be the car that Jarryd aka D-Limo has allegedly bought, but have left a message on the guys message bank to confirm or deny. Cheers, D

Just for the record ...... L series sound awesome when they're tweeked a bit. I know you said you have an RB25 but how would you like about 500Nm + to play with? Cheers, D

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I can really see what a year has made!!!!!!!

I'll settle for this! Better than being FUGLY as the C210 coupe is. Wonder how you would describe the R34 Jase? D

Huh! What's wrong with the R30 engine cross member???????

You don't own them so there!

This car was built by Arthur Jackson and when I last saw it, it was not going due to a stuffed motor. It's had 4 motors that I know of, so it would be an exercise trying to sort it. It has been registered in NSW before and therefore would already have the required paperwork needed to do it again. Cheers, D

It's more than $5 grand as there is a bid of that on it and not reached reserve, so I'm going to have a stab in the dark and suggest this seller has got his hands on it cheap and is trying to cash in on it, or is selling on behalf of the owners. Either way, they're looking for a lot more than $5000.00 for it. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes, but my problem is the room to put it. Cheers, D

Just bought a Z32 turbo box, so I guess I'll be right for gearboxes for some time. I'm going to investigate putting the Z32 box behind the L28 in the PNV as I think the torque I'm expecting will destroy the stumpy L20 boxes far to easily. Cheers, D

They look like series 1 all red hotplates and they aren't worth much and when off look very bland. D

The DBA Part Number is 317 and if your going this way buy them coz they wont be here forever. I have DR30 front & rear on my PNV and I have a spare set of slotted fronts put away for a rainy day as they are no longer available from DBA. Cheers, D

I think this bloke is very expensive in most things he sells. Go check your local parts supplier for the RDA item (Rotors & Drums Australia) as I think you will find them cheaper & no freight. Cheers, D

Huh? Doesn't compute for me, but it is Northern Territory & Mister30 after all.

When Whiteline did that kit originally, they were under the idea that a stock R30 rear bar was 18mm diameter. Cheers, D

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Plus/pdf/WHITE...L_CATALOGUE.pdf Whiteline Plus is the old Noltec produced suspension bush kits. Some they kept & some they scrapped, but most of what we use is still available. Cheers, D

Unless you're prepared to spend a lot of your time replacing poly bushes, they are not necessarily the ants pants. I have replaced all the compression points with poly, but left the pivot points as OEM rubber bonded bushes, as most of the rally guys do. A greased poly bush when it flexes, elongates the hole the sleeve is in and dirt gets in, grinding away the hole size until it's stuffed and has to be replaced. As for the front R31 sway bar, it's a straight swap, but 25mm D bushes need to be sourced, or buy the universal mount kit from Selby's. The Selby front sway bar kit uses a 24mm bar and rear is 22mm, but as we have discussed in private their rear is not what your thinking. I'm going to trial the balance of a 1.0mm diference as in OEM with the 25mm front R31 bar with an custom made 24mm rear on my cars, as I have custom made 24mm poly bushes that fit the standard rear bar mount brackets. (Noltec before Nolathane) I also have poly moustache bar bushes, custom made & rear cross member, before they put them into production. I also have a solid 20mm rear bar & poly bushes (reddat) & brand new rubber bushes (ex Japan), made to same design as Jenesis (removing the kink at hand brake cable adjuster) that I would like someone to test with a stock 21mm front bar to see what diference, if any? it makes. Customising suspension from standard is a lot of trial and error unless of coarse you just want to take the word of the mass producers. Nissan has the 1.0mm diference front to rear & Jenesis does the same, yet Selby does a 2.0mm diference and I would guess it has a lot to do with availability and their wanting to stock it of material AND really nothing to do with performance handling. Probably because they are dealing in most cases with dills with street cars that think they can be a boy racer with Selby Sway Bars fitted. JMO Cheers, D

The Wideline Sports (aka Noltec) steering coupling bush is VERY exy, but if you do a search on US Ebay you will find a guy called reddat and he sells just about everything you can think of for an 280ZX and his steering coupling is the same and half the price. And if you buy other things from him, the freight cost is shared across all items. Cheers, D

Is that the GUNNA turbo setup lol

If you do, you might get a chance to feel for yourself what we were talking about, as I can set up the PNV with same bars. Cheers, D

The biggest problem with our calipers is the needle roller bearings in the hand brake pivot. They are not available and never have been as a spare part from Nissan and when they break & they often do, the caliper is in the bin. I would be surprised if the Z31 300ZX didn't use the same calipers as the DR30, as the rotors are interchangeable. The rears are 290mm x 10mm solid and if they are you will get much better leverage for your hydraulic handbrake. Cheers, D

But was more pointing at quality of the car, rather than buying it. It was an example. Isn't everything for sale if the right dollars are offered???????? Cheers, D

The HR31 boxes only have the single ring synchros & therefore are not as strong as the HR32. If one could be acquired the Nissan 280ZX box was as good as we can get too. Cheers, D

Was!

Just a couple of things on the 2 x PNV's for sale. The ex Ravenoak/Zeb car is currently owned by a guy in Canberra and he paid too much money for it. $6500 or there abouts and he now wants to make a profit from it. He is talking $10000, so he's going to own it for a long time to come. At the time Zeb was selling it, negotiations were taking place in the $4000 area and the reason I didn't buy it was it was not stock. It wasn't a hottie, but 6" speakers in the doors, no rear boot garnish and a few other battle scars and about 150k on the dial, as Zeb used it as a daily driver. The car in SA that recently surfaced for sale, interestingly enough, went for sale after I emailed the owners to see if they would have it ready for the nationals in September, is in pieces, is unregistered and needs a lot of work to get it back to pristine condition and they're asking between $7000~10000 and have no takers so far. The $5000 I paid for my PNV was what I could have landed a complied KHR30 for, from Japan at the time. $5700.00 was the exact cost from Japan, so I offered him $5000 as I knew it was for sale, from a previous conversation I had with him about 18 months prior. As for the Ravenoak DR30, it is by far the best DR I have ever seen in the flesh. I have pictures of it parked in the paddock at Oran Park's Driftland when Ben Ellis owned it and he was there judging the drift competition. A lot of money has been spent on the car since purchase and he gets offered $15000 for it and it's the best I have seen. The R34 owned DR in Perth looks the goods too and he has not got any bites or offers of real dollars for that either. Now back to subject sorta. Maybe you should make the approach along the lines ............ when it is for sale, could I have first bite????? As was said, we here like these old cars, but in reality we are a very small minority and this car can't be a hottie, coz then it's just going to be another C210. You have to do some soul searching to make the hard decisions you need to make and it will be a very long time investment before you will see the appreciation that old european cars get. There is only one place these old cars are of any value and that's Japan and you have to get someone's attention over there that would be interested in shipping it back. Cheers, D

This really is a contentious issue? These old cars are getting thinner and thinner on the ground and the bottom line is "Do you really want it" because if you do, the sky is the limit. May I suggest, you best find out IF it's actually FOR SALE????? Because if it isn't for sale and you rock in offering thousands for it, you might find yourself out of the market, because you will trigger the inquisitive streak in the owner and he will go looking for a valuation to satisfy his curiosity. Once you establish it's for sale you could offer him what the top end of the cars guide suggests and work up from there. When I bought my PNV I was lucky enough to have a seller that didn't know what he had, but told him I could get one from Japan for about $5000 and would he be happy with that, to which he agreed. Maybe this would be your best approach??? Cheers, D