Equinox

Sorry all sold

Hey all Just wondering if anyone knows where I can source the following (apart from Nissan cause they want an arm and a leg compared to Lucus/Protex etc): - Rebuild Kit or Replacement Clutch Master Cylinder for an S14 200SX - Rebuild Kit or Replacement Brake Master Cylinder for an R32 GTR ABS Or any part numbers people have used in the past which worked for them would also be helpful. Thanks

Hey all. Got a few random parts to sell out of the garage. Genuine Kazama Auto S14A Clear Front Indicators www.kazamaauto.co.jp They are brand new. Got these for my S14 but chose to stick with the standard JDM amber indicators. RRP is 10,290 Yen which equates to $143 plus shipping from Japan. They come complete in the original packaging with brand new bulbs to suit. Pics: Asking $140. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Genuine Rays Engineering Volk Racing F-Zero Winning wheels. Sizes are 17x8+32 and 17x9+35. 5x114.3. These are ultra-light forged racing wheels. They still have the Rays barcodes and authenticity stamps on them and are in very good condition. They are the metallic blue colour and come with Rays centre caps. Pics: Asking $1200. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- S13 Central20 280kph Dash Cluster Goes 20kph higher than the Nismo versions. 48000kms on the clock. All confirmed working 100% as it just came out of the car. Pics: Asking $300ono. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Stock RB20 Turbo with actuator Absolutely perfect condition. You will not find a better one. There is zero play in either axis and the wheels have no damage whatsoever. Came off a dead stock RB20 with 120, 000kms on the clock which had never had a boost controller on it. Any inspections welcome. Pics: Asking $150. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All parts are located in South East Melbourne. Postage is available on any item and buyer's expense. If you have any questions feel free to pm me.

Wow thanks for the heads up racingparts!

The GT2560R uses the 60T GT25 turbine and the GT2860R uses the 78T GT28 turbine. Pretty simple. The HKS GT-RS is the Garrett GT2871R-10.

The knock sensor is simply a microphone. It picks up everything across a large frequency range. It is then up to the ECU to apply a band-pass filter to this signal to filter out everything outside the range in which knock will occur on the engine. It then filters out everything which doesn’t occur near TDC. It then calculates a knocking value based on the amplitude of the filtered signal coming from the knock sensor. This is where the error occurs as anything with significant amplitude near TDC will be picked up by the knock circuit as knock. The best way is to install an aftermarket knock microphone and either listen to it directly with headphones or graph its output on an amplitude vs. time graph. The baseline engine noise can then be seen and any spikes will be the ones which need attention.

The compressor wheel needs upgrading to support the larger flow, however the only step up from the 63T 60mm compressor on the GT2530 is the 48T 71mm compressor from the GT2871R which is a bit too large for an RB20. (Would be great on an RB25 though) Do Garrett have a catalogue of wheels somewhere?

The GT2860RS will not have enough flow for an RB25 running 12psi. It will be at it's absolute limit and although it will be able to run 12psi through the midrange it will taper off to 9psi or so at limiter. And yes you will need to get a T3 housing machined to fit. I'd go for something like a GT3071R or an HKS GT-RS which will bolt on to your stock manifold and will be a good match for the engine running 18psi. For the record, at 12psi an RB25 with a stock redline will be needing approximately 38lb/min or 545cfm of air and at 18psi it will be needing 47lb/min or 670cfm. Use these values to select an appropriate turbo off the Garrett website.

Any pics?

Looks amazing. One of the best SR20 setups I have seen. What cams is it running?

At a certain point the torque jumps up 30% yet the boost only jumps 1psi. Whatever is causing this is probably wreaking havoc with the AFRs and the tuner was too lazy to get it tidy as it was difficult. What do you guys normally set the VTC switchoff point to on RB25s? We were tuning an RB25 a little while ago and its torque curve mimmicked that shown above until we played around with the VTC switchoff point. It was set too high and the torque would begin to roll off until the intake cam retarded and then it would pick back up again.

I’m in the exact same position with my SR20. I have a GT2860RS (GT2530 equiv.) and the midrange is amazing. Hits 19psi at 3000rpm, but it trails off to 15psi up at 7500rpm. It only needs the slightest bit more on the compressor side to give it that 3lb/min or so more flow up top. The problem is the next step up from the Garrett GT range is the GT2871R (GT-RS) and that’s too large for a 2L running only 18psi. There’s no middle ground. I'm sure someone has found a custom setup for this situation. Hopefully someone sees this thread who is more knowledgeable about available turbos. *cough* discopotato03 *cough*

Roy. The HKS GT2530, GT2535 and GT-RS all run the same NS111 turbine and the same turbine housing. If it’s big enough for the GT-RS then surely it’s big enough for the GT2530. I think the problem lies in the compressor.

Did you try moving the VTC point around? The RB25's VTC turns off at 4500rpm doesn't it? That's exactly where your torque goes up. I'd be moving your VTC point down to around 4000rpm and seeing that the torque curve looks like then. The boost control is poor but doesn't explain the dip as it is starts low but has a constant rise. The AFR curve is not too bad. It looks worse cause of the scaling.

It's probably the AVCR's solenoid ticking. My old PowerFC boost control kit (which used the same solenoid as the AVCR) went nuts when I neared full boost. Could hear it easily in the cabin.

.... Anti-Surge housings?

The HKS GT2535 is a fair bit bigger. Almost the size of the HKS GT-RS. 69mm vs the GT2530's 60mm. They all share the same turbine however.

I scaled it as a percentage. 100 being 5v and 0 being 0v. My PowerFC's knock reading on that run was 18. So general engine noise at high rpm on this graph is up in the 40s whereas my PowerFC reads high teens for general engine noise.

Here's the output of the board on my car plotted against RPM and AFR.

Who built it? What wheels are in it?

Did you watch the wastegate on the dyno though? Is it actually open at 7000+ rpm?

You sure you weren't told it's running rich? That's incredibly rich. Heaps more torque to be gained by leaning that out. It's fine though. Not dangerous or anything. You're just wasting fuel and potential power. (And giving your plugs a hard time) You have a stock ECU and have changed the exhaust and intake system. It's gone into a region of the fuel map which it wasn't designed to when it had stock parts on it. Time for a remap.

That's especially true for N/A cars. Tuning an N/A car on the street is basically impossible. Peak torque will be obtained way before knock rears its head. Street tuning usually works for our turbo motors as they will keep making peak torque up until they knock. (On anything running a decent amount of boost) But yes tuning the cruise timing map either requires a dyno or an EGT gauge and/or some sort of cylinder pressure gauge.

I tuned mine for 2 hours on the dyno to do the full load 4th gear to redline stuff right. Then spent hours on the street getting every other bit right. Cruise fuel map, acceleration enrichment, etc You really have to do both. The dyno is only good for hitting limiter in 4th under big load. Everything else is better done on the street.

The HKS GT2530 is nearly identical to the Garrett GT2860RS. Calculating the airflow of an RB20 at 1.4bar (assmuming 90% VE @ redline) results in approximately 43lb/min. If you have a look at the compressor map of the GT2860RS you will see that 42lb/min at a pressure ratio of 2.4 is outside the compressor's rated operating region: If you recalculate the airflow assuming boost of only 1.1bar, then at 8000rpm the engine is demanding 37lb/min of air. This is right on the max end of the compressor's map. I'd say this is the problem man. The compressor is simply too small, and the boost is bleeding back to the region where the compressor is efficient at that rpm; 1.1bar.