redline2003

Aiight boys, i think its finally about time i joined the family. After much searching and thinking, i think i may have found the car i want. White manual r34 turbo. Only problem is it is interstate(NSW). Since i want it to be in its best health before i buy, i need to get it checked. Who in NSW can do this for me? Mainly compression test, accident checks, check if its stolen etc. Ive heard NRMA do this, are they any good?? What else can i look out for when buying an R34? I know the interior and exterior condition does reflect on the kms done and i have read the thread about what to look out for when buying a Skyline. Is there any way to tell if the Kms are guiwine(ie, tests). What else can i do to make sure the car iam buying is a non thrashed, well maintained and low kms glamour? Thanks in advance.

I wasnt talking about accidents caused by not being careful or due to heavy traffic, i specifically said 'losing it' due to the car being of a high powered nature. My father would probably slam on the brakes, i would back off and 'try' to counter steer it. I 100% agree that older people are less likely to have accidents from people merging, failing to stop at red lights etc, but what relevence does that have to do with high powered cars??? I do agree that high performance cars do lose traction easier and accelerate much faster, but thats the problem of performance cars, not the age of the driver. Like i said most people of any age wouldnt know what to do if they were in a high performance car and they lost traction, so then we should ban all high performance cars shouldnt we?????

I strongly disagree to 'power to weight' ratios being used in order to limit what cars P platers(like myself) can and cannot drive. Look at it this way, my father is 50 years old, he drives a Mazda Tribute, he doesnt know what oversteer,understeer, compression lock etc etc mean. He has never driven a high performance car, he has just as much chance as losing it as the 18 year old P plater if they both got into a high performance car. The loophole is that my father IS allowed to drive it and the p plater is not. Real effective law isnt it?? When i get my car (either S15 or r34) i will take a advanced drivers course, i dont care for how much $$$ they charge, if it saves me from damaging my car and/or hurting someone then its all worth it.

So say if i were to import through prestige, would they be able to take the car i wish to buy to get it checked for accidents/compression/faults/etc, before i hand over the rest of the cash? Because i cant just buy a car by looking at auction sheets, if i cant feel or drive it, i at least need some checks done...

For me i feel 250RWKW is perfect for the street/circuit. Only problem is finding a turbo that will hit full boost at a low rpm(say 3500-4000) and make that amount of power as well, Because we all know bigger turbos=big power=lots of lag. I think to achieve 250RWKW with a little lag(compared with stock) you'd need cams, ported head and port matched inlet and exhaust ports. All these help reduce the lag and up the power too. In my opinion ball bearing and being water and oil cooled is a must for the longterm, plus the ball bearing aspect helps in cutting lag.

I was thinking about this a few weeks back too, getting the coldest air possible. Isnt there a way to have the plenum HPC coated or something similar to that used on intercooler piping, so it wouldnt be affected by the hot air around it?? Or is the air traveling through the pipes and plenum moving too fast to be affected by engine bay temps? How good is intercooler piping in keeping cold air cold, as it is still a conducter. Are carbon fibre or alloy with a rubber coating pipes possible? I have seen carbon fibre intake plenums and runners so surely this came from the idea that the plenum suffers heat soak as well, or maybe its just for wank factor? Because i know you can HPC coat the actual combustion chambers, although i dont know how much of a gain it would give, if any.

is it sold yet??

Depressing the way our economy works when it comes to cars doesnt it.... looks like ill have to get a s15 after all....

im also in a similar dilemma, but i know i would pick the r34 as it will always be the newer and more desirable car(at least in my opinion), the back lights on the r34 is worth the premium price...Franks can i ask wat bodykit combo you had on ur r34, the front and rear bars look sweet, im guessing the skirts are bomex?

Geoff, is it possible to get the intercooler(and AFM-to-turbo) piping coated in rubber or made of a more heat resistant material then stainless steel(like say carbon fibre like the Japanese race cars)?? Would it be expensive?

can i just ask why is it almost mandatory to use stock extractors on a supercharged car??

i dont think pod filters should be re-used or 'cleaned' at all, i believe in replacing the whole pod once every XXXXXkm depending on how dirty it is, much like oil filters etc. Apexi would have to be the best filter as its non oiled, provides little restriction and filters better then any other (this has been tested on many sites). If you must go oiled then K&N would be the best bet because at least they attempt to filter the air...

thanks for the replies guys keep em comming, i know a few advanced driving courses are mandatory also. If i do get it it will also remain stock for a while(well at least performance wise). I did once consider buying a s14A, series 2 r33 or type X 180 but i just cant go past the looks and moderness or a s15 or r34, and while those cars are still possiblities i think it will be a VERY hard choice. I have driven a s15 before which was stock and it felt very good to drive, iam yet to drive a r34 though (although ive driven a r33). Im in no rush as iam taking the time to think about this decision very carefully (that and ill be rating 4 in febuary, so cheaper insurance).

Basically aftermarket computers, venting BOV's(the ones that make a noise), loud exhausts, High mount non-stock turbos, any form of boost control, non ADR approved items like steering wheel pedels, seats, too dark tint, venting wastegates, running no cat/muffler etc etc the list goes on. However you'd find that most of these mods CAN be engineered in some way or another, although without the fun and cool sounds( ie Psssht, roaring wastegate etc lol)

Aiight guys i need opinions, im soon to be 19 and currently at school while working a casual job. during my 2 years at this job i managed to save a fair bit(more then half the value of the cars mentioned below). ive been into cars since my mate from work imported a skyline r33 and i used this forum to learn about them(and other nissans) and i made my mind up to save and buy a skyline. However i was made to wait until i had some more expierence behind the wheel until i got a decent car and during that time i made some more money and wanted a better car.I had always dreamed about an R34 or S15. After much negotiating and dealing with my parents i managed to get a bit more money, enough for a s15 or r34 GTT, now i know it is a bit outrageous and there will be contrasting opinions but i need to hear them to best decide. this isnt a debate of which car is better but whether or not i SHOULD get a car of this calibre. I mean i think im a good and safe driver with no fines, loss of licence, prangs etc, but i know im not the best driver, i do alway try and be careful. Feel free to voice opinions.

Just wonderin what would be feeding the s/c air?? I know the turbos are being fed straight air with no filter or bellmouth but usually a s/c is fed by a pod filter or overhead throttles(or 'butterflies' through a tophat comming out the bonnet. The pic isnt clear enough to see what is behind the charger...

off topic but i was looking on the wrecked exotics site and under 'maclaren f1' theres a silver example which looks to have victorian number plates 'MCLF.1' but it isnt that clear....interesting

While i love turbos and boost i also like the feeling of a well tuned and worked small capacity NA. Its true that you will most probably never be a dyno queen with an NA engine(unless its an 8) but instant throttle response is a very addictive thing to have and there is no lag. A guy in NSW is running 14 seconds flat in his stroked 2 door lancer and 12.9 with NOS. Getting the coldest air and flow into the engine is very important with an NA car too as it creates a bigger bang (cold air is denser). Carbon fibre pipes and inlet plenums seem to be the rage when it comes to getting power out of small capacity NA engine. It depend on how much power you want and how its delivered, one day when i have a good paying job i want to work a NA 4 or 6, but till then its turbo for me.

Have to admit that setup does look tough, it has grown on me, but on the street wouldnt it suffer from heat soak??

sort of...

I think this is the new craze because everytime i pick up a car mag i see at least one car with a flatmount or V-mounted setup. At first i thought this was to reduce piping and save space, but the lack of airflow would not make it worthwhile although its true that the engine would recieve better cooling. what do you all think of this setup?? i think ill stick to a front mount..

im sort of with you on this, especially when i see magazines like HPI and SPEED having whole issues dedicated to it, sure a bit of sideways is fun, but i would much rather the rush of traction. I mean even the americans are drifting now, so that says alot about the 'sport'. BTW i also hate the strawberry face conversions, black roofs, t-wings and stickers associated with drift....but i luv the spoilerless, deep dish rims, carbon fibre bonnet look.

ok boys please stick to the topic at hand. I will look into importing one only if one can be had for cheaper or similar then local models. what price should i be looking at for a 98-99 manual turbo in the usual white/silver/black with low kms and near new condition. Feel free to list some respectable importing shops too.

want to get the feel of the car first, will not buy the first one we see, just want to see how it drives, feels, interior, handling etc. Better to waste a car dealers time who is there to make money then to waste a private sellers time who is making time to try sell a car. If it is a real nice car (in all aspects) then i will buy it privately, there was no intention of buying off a dealership as most of them are very shifty and have no(i mean absolutely no) idea about the cars they are selling and their cars are EXTREMELY marked up. We saw a ZR 2001 celica at a dealer for 38K, flip to the trading post and we see one for 31K ONO, yards dont like to negotiate much either. Problem is there arent too many r34 GTTs in manual in victoria with sellers that arnt dreaming (39K for a full stocker.....hmmm). Ive seen a few r34's sell for 32K which i would pay, even a bit more for a low km stock mint cond glamour. In case yous didnt know im am the one looking for an r34....puts flame suit on.

R34GTT : Very nice car but it needs to be stock as and 38K is out of range, even though it is a very good price for the mods it has, probably would be TOO powerful to start with. Meshybum : dont slander if you cant prove it, i cant see how they can sell stolen cars to the general public and STILL be in business(and not in jail) GTTR34 : what kit is on that r34 in your pic?? nismo? Is it worth importing with the current scheme?? Will the price difference be much, if any?