bubba

When I was working in Leederville it cost me $6/day to park on Newcastle St or $6.40/day to catch public transport.. I preferred to drive, cost me a few extra dollars in fuel but I got to work 5 times faster

The screen to the part of the dash where the dials sit? or the screen to the clear plastic cover over the dials? For my application I was just going to mount a screen to the left of the centre console and a neat arm dohicky that will fold down and out of the way..

I feel sorry for all you baby faced munchkins.. I've had a goatee since I was 15 which was great for buying alcohol with Sammie, I think you'll find that the people advertising these lame jobs with no skills required are probably looking for someone under the age of 18 that they don't have to pay adult wages to. Get a job pushing trolleys while doing a 6month CAD course at tafe then get a job drafting.. ask Dale, we make lots of money

If you have a camera, pop the bonnet and take a photo. I will then highlight the areas to check

I'm not going nuts on the modifying but I also am not thinking about how "worthwhile" it is. I want the go to go faster and be more fun to drive, cool. I'm prepared to spend the money to put an RB25 and anything else I feel is warranted to make it go faster. It is a personal preference thing, I am not planning on selling the car anytime soon and will not be expecting to get back any of the money I have spent on modifying when the time comes to sell (not that I think that time will ever come ). Basically, if you want it and you can afford it, do it.

I have been toying with the idea of a car pc for a while now, how were you planning on powering it? The way I see it is I wanted to use pc parts I have at home, I could use a standard 240V PSU and install an inverter/transformer to go from 12V DC to 240V AC. I don't like the idea of having 240V AC anywhere in my car.. The other option is a 12V DC PSU can be bought for a much heftier price.. I would also like to know what sort of LCD screen you end up going with.. Cheers, Bubbs

Have you checked for boost leaks?

Like Femno said they're cheap as chips, but if you really want I can send you the one I pulled out a couple of weeks ago..

I'd be checking all your silicon joiners.. I had a hose clamp pop off (just the clamp not the silicon) and when it got to about 4k it felt like it hit a wall.. took me a bit to figure out as it wasn't like when the hose popped right off (when it popped right off it wouldn't idle and pumped HEAPS of black smoke).

I know where you can buy an RB30DETT that's already built dale.. pulled a 10.81 in a commodore

I had a Turbotech ballvalve and upgraded to a ProfecB II as I was given it for my b'day.. the ebc shits all over the old turbotech one.. as has been said you can adjust the gain and teh start etc. I run low setting as base boost (0% increase) but with the wastegate held shut till 9psi and high setting is 30% increase (gives me about 13psi) with the gate shut till 11psi. Definately comes on harder with the gate held shut, if I turn the ebc off I notice the difference. It was also pretty easy to install with probably the hardest bit being getting the cables/hose into the cabin and routing them to the top of my steering wheel

Same engine (25/30), he's just getting better at launching the 26 head is going on the N1 block when it arrives.. then it will be HKS 2.8L FTW!

You missed a gear and still bettered your pb? nice work oh and my mates commodore that I first posted.. ran a 10.81 last wednesday.. RB30DETT FTW!

Yeah as Beer Baron said, it's not dangerous - just not ideal. You may find it might run a bit rough though.

The thermostat controls the temperature of the engine, it's set to open once a particular temperature is reached. This means that with the standard thermostat, regardless of how big the radiator you should still be running at ~80deg. The bigger radiator will just allow extra breathing space when the engine is making its' max power which unless you're pushing 300rwkw+ shouldn't be much of a difference, it will also help on those really hot australian days.

It will be the nismo thermostat that has dropped the temp, I would be putting the standard one back in (if it's not FUBAR'd)

Dale, to be honest mate, I'd keep it rego'd.. especially as you are putting a different engine in.. 6 months rego is less than a days pay (specially for you contractor bastards ).

Agreed, 68deg is too cold.. did you put the Nismo thermostat in? I don't think you would have noticed much temp. drop at all with the new radiator and the old thermostat.. engines don't like to be too hot but they also don't like to be too cold.. poor fuel atomisation etc.

Looks like that sierra is in the guys loungeroom.. these oldschool cars make me hard in the pants!

My rb20 gearbox started making some horrible noises with the clutch out, in neutral or in gear and driving.. got so bad I thought it was going to let go with any harsh clutch/throttle movements, the new rb20 box makes a tiny bit of noise if you listen hard but nothing like the old one! But as everyone has said, clutch in - thrust bearing, clutch out - gearbox.

Are you actually having temp problems? by this I mean is it just the gauge in the dash that is being dicky? or is it an aftermarket gauge? have you plugged a laptop in and seen what the ECU water temp sensor is reading? Edit: manwhore beat me to it.. I thought my car was running a little hot as the needle looked like it was sitting a little high, IIRC the ECU and the dash gauge use different senders, I plugged the laptop in and the ECU says it's running pretty much spot on 80deg

Wtf? you should be doing these things regardless of how powerful your car is..

Stock or aftermarket?

You should have ticked the YES box mate heh.. oh and RaceTune is like 100m from my house, they build some badass escorts and I constantly hear them tuning some really rude pieces of machinery But a bunky is a bunky.. about the most I'd do is weld the diff up for a bit of fun on the winter commutes

Hopefully I can get my new fuel pump installed in time for this