bubba

After what? 5yrs? of this thread, NO-ONE HAS HAS ANSWERED THE MULTIPLE QUESTIONS AS TO WHICH WIRE IS THE EARTH?

balstic or balistic? and what's a good price? cheers

RB20DET has a 10psi actuator. RB25DET actually has a 5psi actuator (the boost solenoid ups it to 7psi).

Be careful, if customs thinks it's iffy they can look into it and if they discover you declared lower you can get in BIG trouble. Importing car parts sounds almost as hard as when I import firearms parts (except they won't get seized and destroyed if they don't like it) *smirk*

NO way was I taking my camera on the field There were a couple of photographers, should be some pics up on the paintball forums soon enough - will link when there is

Interesting.. I'll have a better look now that I'm not on my lunch break

I thought a "kit" was just a valvebody, new bands etc is more along the lines of strengthening the box.. I have never owned an auto though so shrug

Yeah found those got my eye on a cheaper slightly used one, if that doesn't pan out I'll get one of the other ebay ones.

Always run it on U98 and I've tried octane booster to no avail Doesn't matter what the ambient temperature is, it just has to be at normal operating temperature for a few minutes and it starts to ping. The thing that really gets me is it didn't do it when I first got the car, it wasn't until a few months later that it started to ping. It has also gotten worse lately. It seems like something is/has deteriorated.. As for the timing.. what exactly is the correct procedure? sitting there at idle it reads 15BTDC on the laptop and with the timing light the mark is on 15BTDC. I'm not really fussed about a rebuild.. it's only an RB20 which wouldn't get a rebuild.. if it blows then it's time to put an RB25 in or my mates RB30DETT If I cruise it it's fine, it's only when it comes on boost with maybe 1/4 throttle that it pings, does it at 13psi and at 10psi (no noticeable difference). I would rather not take it to one of the big workshops as I have a good mechanic that works for mates rates (when he gets time) and he knows RB engines reasonably well (he built the aforementioned RB30DETT). I'm trying to source a Bosch fuel pump so we'll see how that goes.

Looking for the cheapest/easiest place to get a Bosch 044 from.. any ideas?

That's what I'm trying to say Someone needs to tell him where exactly the wastegate actuator hoses go so he can check if that's what the loose hose is.. I have a 32 so I can't tell him as I don't have the dual stage solenoid etc etc.

I dont think he has wound the boost up, I think it's more a case of his wastegate actuator isn't connected to anything (the loose hose he found) and is boosting uncontrollably. I'm not sure where the 33 gets it's pressure signal from.. pretty sure it's different to my 32 which has the pressure nipple on the compressor housing.

Not sure what plugs, they're just what my mechanic gave me as listed in some book - it was playing up before the plug change though. Fuel pump is on the cards for next payday So 40BTD isn't anything to be worried about?

Well the official turnout was 109 people and a great day was had by all. I only saw one skyline there, we had previously exchanged words while waiting at a set of lights a couple of weeks ago but I didn't come across him on the day. Too bad you all missed it, was a bloody awesome day!

Umm that hose is probably meant for the wastegate actuator. Sounds like you're hitting Rich & Retard (fuel cut), if that hose is indeed meant for the actuator then the turbo will be spooling uncontrollably, making way too much boost which will cause the ECU to read an overvoltage from the AFM and throw itself into R&R. If that is the case, my guess is the car had an electronic boost controller which was removed by a complete monkey

Yeah base timing is at 15BTDC. I mentioned 40degrees to my mechanic and he was like that's pretty high.. he said take some base timing out of it which will be pretty gay off boost. I'm moving through trying to eliminate things, so far done the plugs, fuel filter and changed AFM's. Next on my list is fuel pump and CAS aswell as try another ECU. Cheers guys, keep the ideas coming Can the timing belt stretch when it get old and result in this sort of pinging? it pings pretty bad if I give it more than say 10% throttle when at normal operating temperature. Also, a tiny misfire has developed over the last few weeks. Not consistant and not repeatable, just does it randomly and usually at low revs getting on the throttle a bit, doesn't miss under load (happens maybe once a week).

They run 10psi standard and with a nice free flowing exhaust I don't see 12psi being impossible.

Been having some problems with pinging once the car is at normal operating temperatute. Plugged the laptop in the other day and saw some crazy timing numbers.. at about 3500rpm it's hitting 40deg BTDC.. So is it possible for an ecu to shit itself and throw in a bunch of extra timing? Car is pretty stock engine wise, has an exhaust/pod/boost controller and a stock ecu. Didn't ping when I bought the car but after a few months it started to.

That's not very nice.

Drop me a PM if any manual 33's come through for a decent price

I have a ProfecB II and notice this aswell. My low setting is base boost (0%) but with the wastegate shut until 9psi and it is definately laggier with the ebc off.

Briffa Engineering in Morley made the droptank for my mates one tonner

I used the big grommet on the drivers side for my amp power and ebc wires. It comes out high and to the right of the gas pedal. I just taped the cabling to the end of a screwdriver and pushed it through.

I too would also like to see the final design before paying. I have seen a couple of things recently that makes me think there is more than one R32 GTSt cluster layout.. if all is good and it fits my cluster, payment will be on its' way!

<drool>