ahh 33 s2

rb25 rods are to short racespec is selling forged rb30 rods for 1800 atm with forged pistons. 25de pistons would be the way to go for a higher CR. just my 2 cents worth Dan

im not sure if it is just the picture but in the top pic with the cooler piping showing it looks like your bottom radiator hose clamp is broken. i might just be seeing things tho... is top racing building this motor as well

when can the people that have paid expect them

has every one paid up and what is a ruff delivery date at the moment

have you modified the bracket. as i am pretty sure that it is nesacary to do so. also what balancer are you using. if it is ati they are only for rb26 therefore defently requiring modification to the bracket

what did the welding set you back

hey all just seen these rods and cp pistons being sold for 1800 by race spec on these forums any one have positive or negative feedback on these rods and or comparisons to other after market rods http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...89#entry4107389 thanks dan

this may be a stupid question for sum, but do you get your block work done and then purchase your pistons and bearings so forth or do you just get over sized pistons and then got the block done to match. or does it not really matter what way you do it

any chance of a second group buy, missed this one by a day, almost cried thanks dan

i dont no for sure but i would presume that the crank is just sized/designed differently to accomodate the thinner rod.

for that price why would you bother there has been no reported problems with the dayco belt and the cost is around 30-40 dollars.

what was the brand name of this product and what store was it in. i could only see one type of metal substance at bunnings prolly not the best store for it but it was more of a putty. also i noticed that the hole for the tensioner bolt in that position sits back into the block abit making the bolt shorter then the top tensioner and cam gears?

i have the same problem with the bottom tensioner. the hole for it is allready there however no surfast to sit on, after reading the liquied metal idea i went and purchased some selleys stuff. however it says will only handle 120C of heat. would the constant spinning of the tensioner create a friction heat of excess of that is what i am wondering, considering if it did fail and the tensioner let the belt slip off it would cause some rather major damage. or would getting a cast iron welder to fill it up then smooth over be a better option. or just buy the right block in the first place, hits self over back off head

why is this silly website trying to charge me double the postage. it wants me to pay $31.85 postage. please explain

i dont quite understand that concept either. but still what is a heli coil??

what size is the hole and it doesnt matter if you go into the water gallery does it just a bit of lock tight and all is sweet yeah

what is heli coil and is this the best way to make this modification

i baught the gregories one from super cheap its not the one from holden but still has just about everything you will need i would think

4 holes??? i no the oil return is 3/4 inch but what are the other dimensions of the other 2 holes and the pitch of the thread

meaing you have to drill and tap holes for the 26 sensors in the 30 block

i thought there where holes for the knock sensors in the 30 block. or is that for using 25 sensors??

does any one no what CP recomend the piston to bore clearence is on the 26/30 pistons???

hey all i am slowly building a 26/30 for my 33. i have gathered that a 26 loom or would be the best option. however is this a job that can be attempted by an amature or should be left for the pros. also will be upgrading my PFC to a 26 unit. what are you opinion on the D Jetro unit or stick with the standard AFM unit?

now that we have 11 does that mean the price has dropped. i would lilke to see a carbon front lip for series 2 front bars. with air diverters on the side.

are they real carbon fibre or just looks like it. if they are real count me in fo sho