BTM

Buy the proper offset and size new. Don't stuff around with wheels that were clearly NEVER going to fit the car properly. Work out your plan with the car before buying the wheels then do it properly once.

That's just the 66k on the clock after the old 160k dash was taken out

URAS do R31 coupe as well as R31 House.

They are extremely close when you look at back to back testing (in the real world). They just eliminate the wheel spin issues which COULD be why they read higher. That being said if a car is secured properly and has sufficient grip on the dyno this shouldn't be an issue. And now with teh cams in the Neo donk, I'm sure there is no arguing the power is exactly where it should be. I think 325rwkW at 18psi was the latest result? Higher comp and extremely mild cams hold the standard Neo's back. With 260 Poncams they destroy the 33 donks

The wrong ones

LOL. Correct offset is what people need.

I'm sorry but that sticker is gay. Seriously gay. Though it was in the "shopping list" sticker era so it's understandable.

It's not that expensive to do if you just want to run one 10 second quarter and then not race anymore. Avoids cages and the like. You should be able to tune an RB25 to a reliable 350rwkW to allow you to do it as well. Diff and axles should be fine with the load, as should the gearbox. A twin plate should also cut it. Just strip all the weight out of the car to get it lighter

I just ordered 265/35R18s for 10.5 +30s on the rear of mine 235/40R18 is a good option for you as well.

The funkiest Monkey is correct.

It was Team "Spit Roast" or something like that. Gayer than aidz.

Quoted for truth. Just pay the money and get Jesse to ship some over for you Kristian.

Yeah I'm leaning on 3076R with .6 housing, merge collector manifold, 260 Tomei cams in/ex, NissTune, 18 psi and all the supporting fuel and intake/exhaust mods. My mates car just pulled 330rwkW on 18psi with basically that set up on a Neo so it definitely works. If I could get a 35/40 on song by 3800rpm, I'd just throw one of them on the car straight away, but without serious head work I don't think it'd have a chance of flowing like that. You got a build thread FineLine? Would be greatly interested to have a read of it and look at your development path.

I'm just shocked at how laggy the car is. 5000rpm to get to 18psi? Something is not right there. Federal SS for all round performance, or KU36s for the dry.

What cams and exhaust housing on the turbo were you using? I'm trying to plan out the build on my RB25DET NEO in my 34, with 300-320rwkW being the initial plan with more desired come rebuild time (more revs).

Yeah they wouldn't even know the first thing about it haha. When I drove it it wouldn't have even had 300rwkW. As for bagging the Redline business, I'm not intending to do that. Just back the tool that owns it that thinks he knows everything

No to SAFC as there is no regulations yet as to altering air/fuel maps etc. Boost controller not legal fitting into the same category. Tint strictly needs less than 35% and most glass has natural tint, so 35% film won't work. To get around this you need a medical cert saying its due to migraines/headaches caused by the sun. Steering wheel needs to be ADR approved and can't remove an airbag.

That's good to hear. You now have a 50/50 chance of getting through with it. Don't take anything they say at vehicle standards with a grain of salt.

We detailed that a few years ago. Wasn't 450rwkW by any stretch. We told him a similar set up made 450rwkW in a mates car so he would have used those figures. And those guys are f*cking retards.

He does repair some lightly damaged cars from time to time to sell them as well. I only import myself from Japan now.

Definitely got the Nismo GT-Pro. Far superior diff to the rest and come with thicker stub axles in the kit. Kaaz can be loud and nasty to drive with. Cusco can be high maintenance from what I hear due to organic clutch places, though I loved mine in my old S13 and never had problems.

So I have a 34 sedan with no sideskirts or rear pods. I'm considering fitting them to the car, but wasn't sure how they secure down the sill panels. As mine has no factory sides, there are no holes along the side, and if I'm required to drill holes to fit them, I'm not going to bother at all. Has anyone pulled a set of skirts off a sedan and seen how they are mounted underneath??

34's are electronic HICAS and you can get rid of it by buying a drag rod kit from Cusco and installing it.

Non turbo doesn't have the vent on the side for the intercooler etc. Seeing as I don't want that, that's the reason for going non turbo.

Go 225/40R18 and 255/35R18 for the same rolling diameter as stock 9 +22 all round is a much better option as long as you have clearance to your struts