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R33LIN

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Everything posted by R33LIN

  1. hey mate, unfortunately ive heard that the driverability of puck clutches are more difficult and are subject to more shudder during take off. with those type of clutches...your either on or off. obviously if you dont get it right then it will shudder and so forth. i think the good thing about cushion button though is how its "cushioned" springs and hence it absorbs most of the shudder. i cant definitely say that after your clutch has bedded itself in it will be better. but yeah it should be abit better and less bitey. goodluck mate,
  2. yeah mate, i agree with ^^^ shes prolly not dead yet, but soon enough she will be dead and you will either be crawling along or worse still at a standstill. go for cushion button heavy duty, good for street and the spirited drive. cheers
  3. i got an xtreme cushion button clutch for 500bucks and was told by the mechanic and the clutch place that they can take upto 250rwkw, good for street and the occassional spirited drive, drag, drift etc... so far the clutch is going well..highly recommended imo, changing the clutch over is a very labour intensive job if you need to get it done professionally then i would suggest go for a good clutch as there is no point getting an "ok" clutch when its going to cost u around 300-350 bucks for the labour. i read above u can do it urself so that shouldnt be a problem. imo i just think get the clutch done right the first time with the clutch u want. no point getting a clutch that isnt up for your power level. just my two cents! hey mate, when i got my cushion button done, the clutch showed the same symptoms as u. it was very bitey and needed it to be slipped it at around 1500-2000rpm during take off for smooth take off. now after 10,000 or so kms it has bedded itself now. i think the rattle down low is a common thing for heavy duty clutches as ive been told by a mechanic its just the clamping and unclamping of the heavier pressure plate. though i dont tend to hear the rattling, clicking noises when i change gear in a specific rev range...only when its down low. cheers! Sorry for the long post
  4. my clutch used to slip within that rev range as well. especially when u give it spirited throttle. it was ok if i let the revs climb slowly. i blieve its ur clutch thats giving way. do you smell any burning smell after a long drive? the smell may indicate a scorching flywheel from the slipping.... just my two cents!
  5. hey mate sorry to hijack your thread but i was wondering how much are u being quoted to remap the ecu? cheers
  6. ive heard the whole of kapunda is pretty haunted. so you could imagine the cemetery in all places would definitely be haunted though i think Kapunda is going to be a bit too far for most people.
  7. hey mate, one nice looking car mate congrats on your purchase. it looks the goods. do you mind disclosing how much you paid for the line?
  8. haha, no worries! thats ok mate, you were at the lights on montague rd and i drove past trying to catch your attention, but yeah you seemed to be in "another world!!!" hehe... I figured maybe you had a long day at work. oh well maybe next time....
  9. nah that wasnt me, i was in the silver r33 damn! looks like i should have pulled into the caltex just to see you take off.
  10. just spotted around 4pm a nice looking black 4 door r34 on the corner of main north and montague rd...i think it may have been nightcrawler? one nice looking car also spotted a white r33 with full kit, rims, zorst, gtr badge on salisbury highway didnt really have a good look but not sure if it was a real Gtr though.
  11. hey sorry to hear about your car, no doubt you are taking it hard on yourself. hopefully you have close friends and family that will be able to give you some support. well done on taking the car yard on. continue to let ca and mta know and ask them what are your options. i agree with trav33, if you can get a refund somehow then i would. From day one they already screwed you around whats to say they havent screwed you over again while they were working on your car to get it off defect. ...i wouldnt trust the safety of your car after leaving your car with them. imo get a refund goodluck with your car cheers
  12. hey mate, if your car is ready for inspection and you have free time... i would suggest you to go to regency very early in the morning just when they've open up on any day and put your name on the waiting list, cos chances are the people with booked reservations cancel their bookings and if ur first on the list you can take their spot. hope that helps cheers!
  13. yeah mate get your clutch changed. its definitely slipping. as for frying the tyres on boost in 1st, all that means is that the clutch is still good for 1st gear and as yet to slip in first. but by the sounds of it...it wont be too long now before you will start to experience slipping in first. my clutch was slipping badly. firstly it would slip in 5th, 4th, 3rd then finally it started to slip in first, in which case i was pretty much crawling along. mine slipped even in when the car was in gear. changed the clutch to see it was worn down to the rivets. NOT good! hope that helps! goodluck mate,
  14. hey mate, whats the reasons for selling it?
  15. yes it does, a very small side mount intercooler. if i were you, go for the r34 smic, they are slightly bigger and will be sufficient for 200rwkws cheers
  16. +1, not necessarily as for fmic, go for the blitz Lm core. this core costs abit more than ur usual hybrid ones, but is high quality and utilizes the stock plumbing it will be an easier diy job. just my two cents cheers
  17. personally wouldnt trust purchasing a PFC from ebay especially when your forking out that amount of money, strive to buy off business traders on sau (sponsors) and or forum members aka "tuners" as u call it. hehe btw welcome to Australia mate, and goodluck with the car cheers!
  18. R&R is the ecu's safety mechanism for the engine. dont think its dangerous towards the engine, its just the dreaded flat spots and loss of power. cheers!
  19. welcome to the forums mate! you definitely have a nice looking r33 hey guys do you reckon could it also be r&r at that boost level? seems to sound like its either missfiring or rich and retard. but yeah as Pauly33GTS-t has said, do the usual checks, gap size (gap them down), coil packs etc.. I may be wrong but i think the ticking noise you say is the heatshield on the turbo and dump pipe cooling down. (metal...heating up and then cooling down= ticking noise) if you have any further questions dont hesistant in asking, i am sure that someone within the sau community will have an answer for you. goodluck mate CHEERS!
  20. Depends on how much power your after mate? and whether or not you may want more power in the future again! again it depends on your supporting mods as well. sooner or later your going to need to change ur fuel pump, injectors, clutch, ecu...etc...and all of which costs more money. imo, i'd go a HIFLOW. the hiflowed turbo will give you the best of both worlds, more power than stock and pretty good response as well. and best bang for buck! my two cents, goodluck mate
  21. hey mate, interms of the install if you can, i would much advise you to do it yourself. save your money mate for other things. fitting the exhaust isnt hard..just a few bolts, gaskets here and there.just get a friend to help you and really shouldnt take more than a couple of hours. the hardest bit is getting the old bolts off since if you have the stock exhaust the nuts and bolts would never have been changed before possibly even rusted and are a bitch to get loose. just my two cents, Goodluck mate
  22. Nice vids there Heslo, they looks heaps good! i gotta commend you on your steady hand and awesome camera work. thumbs up to the driver as well. well done guys
  23. well done mate, they look heaps good +1 for a write up!
  24. hey mate, it seems as though ur battery is on its last legs, obviously you will find it more difficult to start the car in the colder conditions than when hot. i found that when buying a car battery go for a battery that has a higher cca value. i think cca stands for cold cranking amperage. the higher this value, the more cranking amperage you have and thus the ease at which you can start your car. As batteries get older the cca deteriorates . best to get a new battery mate, hope that helps. cheers
  25. Hey mate, sorry for the noobie question but how do you properly bleed the coolant system? and what are the negative repercussions from not properly bleeding it in. hope you can help! cheers
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