Torques

Right ... and given the current rate of exchange it is more like AU$2.20 for 100 octane ..

Well ... I see what I can do. Right now I'm glad I got the bonnet closed But I guess I need to regap the plugs to 1-1.1 ..

Hi Terry, That's dirt cheap for 98 RON! I'll come over to Oz then ... seems a good place for me anyway since I also have a dirtbike which I really would like to use... As for the timing belt I have given it some thought already .. I'd like having a look at the belt just to be sure .. Is the cover easy to detach so the belt is exposed for checking? As for the car: The mileage seems suspiciously low but all the engine (serpentine) belts look like brand new. Then there are the tires. The manufacturing date for the tires seems to be 01/2001 and they're some expensive Japanese ones (forgot the name) However the thread is at 85% .. But one thing is for sure, it has been garaged since the paint is in good nick. Cheers!

Yep ... they are designed for 100, but the knock sensor helps keeping low octane usable. What fuel do you driver over there? And how expensive is gas in Oz? Cheers ..

Hi ... Mostly 95 octane ... pump fuel. Then there is 100 octane ultimate, but it's quite pricey. I have not tried 100 octane yet, but will check it out once my gas tank is nearly empty.

Many thanks for the information ... much appreciated. Could somebody please fill me in on the R32ECU vs. R33ECU? VVT to me is a mechanical system that changes the duration/valve timing. Is the R33ECU somehow managing the VVT?

Hi, Thanks for all the answers. All I can say is that I have driven the car for about 7 hours at around 4500-6000rpm when I was going from the UK to Europe. It's kinda difficult finding out what made the plugs look like they do. But judging from the old copper paste and the looks of the plugs I'd say they have been in there for at least 4 years. I have another older car, a Chrysler, and the spark plugs look similar to the ones I had in the Skyline (as for the wear) Chrysler Sparks These plugs have been in the car for 4 years... I now have installed these NGK copper plugs (shame on me) and I have a slight misfire at idle (at least I think it's misfire) And I'm under the impression that the car ran better with the AutoLite Platinum plugs. (though I have not fully tested) Cheers from rainy London

Hmm ... I can't argue that a low odometer reading is somewhat fishy. (Though I have it in writing I have no lifter noise, rust, smoke or other nasty stuff. It's a really neat car. I like it alot (I'll be posting some pictures) http://www.strangelanding.com/skyline/r33/r33.html How long did it take you changing the plugs? And isn't it better removing the whole frame where the coils sit on rather than removing each coils separately? (that's what I did) ? As for misfiring I did not have any, even with the worn out 1.5mm gap from the old plugs. I drove the car from England to Europe (800km through 4 countries) in 7 hours and there was no problem whatsoever. (driving at 160-180km/h) Even the gas mileage was good.. But I know ... if it's too good to be true, it possibly isn't true Cheers to OZ!

Yep ... that's a lot of mileage especially for a spark plug in a turbo engine. Is there an engine number linked to the vehicle id? I could try to cross reference.. I honestly doubt the engine has 160,000km+ because I know how engines with this mileage run/look. But of course there is always a risk involved

Hi! Yes, the car is standard .. (except that there was a huge HKS exhaust) As for the engine ... of course you never know what has happened to the car in Japan. And I doubt the car really has only 55,000km on the clock. However the engine does not look like it has been swapped unless the people who have done it are real masters in doing so. There is not a single scratch in the engine bay, and all the mounts are in pristine conditions. Even the pedals and seats show no wear or tear. Same goes for the headlights or windshield (no chips or scratches) It even came with the service record from the Japanese Workshop. As for the engine, it pulls strong and uses no oil whatsoever. In addition the engine sounds pretty healthy and not like 155,000km+. But back to the plugs .... Autolite claims 100,000km and these plugs look like 200,000 ... Very strange!

I'm half German so the beer has to be ice cold and my coffee must be boiling hot (and obviously my car has to be fast)

That was a quick reply .. To be honest the car is still in the garage, I have not driven it with the new plugs because I was too tired and needed a cold beer In addition I wanted to double check all the tubing and piping on the car under daylight conditions.

Hi there .. Yesterday I changed the spark plugs on my R33 GTST S2 for the first time (I had the car for just 8 month) Since I'm new to the car it took me 3 hours : ( but next time I recon it will be more of an hour) Anyhow I have included the pictures of the old plugs, and I think these are pretty much worn out. Considering they're platinum (by a company called AutoLite) I figure these plugs have been in the car for a long time. The gap is at 1.5mm due to erosion .. The car had just one owner (in Japan) and the certificates claims that the milage is 55,000 km. I have no experience with platinum spark plugs, so any comments on the pictures is welcomed. From the colouring of the plugs I'd say the engine is sound .. PLUGS 1 PLUGS 2 Cheers from London ...

Thanks for the run down Is it possible having the standard ECU remapped (like a Mines ECU) to get around the R&R? As for power I read the following injectors max out at around 340 bhp afm max out............around.340 bhp fuel pump max........around 350 bhp standard turbo, max boost .8bar, max power 330bhp ish standard ecu max power 330bhp ish standard clutch.....340bhp max Now you guys tell me that the standard ECU is no good for anything over 274bhp .. Cheers ...

Hi there and thanks for the answers Would be a shame if it came off, wouldn't it? I read that the standard turbo is good for 11-12PSI. Some claim even 13PSI .. Now that IS VERY interesting since nobody ever mentioned anything about "+rich+retard" for stage I where I was reading. But if I increase the boost in small steps, to 9-10PSI shouldn't it be safe? I like 'keep it simple', how does a new EU control the boost? Is it using the already build in boost control valve? Nope just NA engines, but a turbo engine is not much different (except for the turbo of course )

Hi there .. I knew about Datalogit, but I think it's too much clutter and too expensive for a functionality other ECUs come with anyway.

Hi there ... My ultimate goal would be getting more power (300-330 without ripping the car apart and keeping the appearance of the car more or less stock:) I read that about 310-330HP (is this rear wheel?) should be achievable without changing too many components. The standard turbo is said to be good till 13 psi. As for the ECU I'd love having Nistune, but as you said, it's not available for the R33ECU it seems (such a shame) The R32 ECU has no Variable Cam Timing, and that's something I'd like to keep. I read that you can use some ZX300 ECU, but I think that's a bit shaky .. (as for the loom etc) The PowerFC I don't like since you can only tune it with this HandCommander, and I want to use a Laptop-Computer where I can store all the data and curves. The LinkECU sounds promising, but it costs an arm and a leg (but it's on my radar) As for the turbo I could buy a used one for little $$ and have it rebuild to HighFlow. I think I should get a boost controller and a good boost gauge and toy around with higher boost levels (and see how the engine reacts). I like the mechanical bleed valves as for their simplicity and their low price. The electronic boost controllers are neat, and overpriced but if I come across a good unit with scramble mode and boost pressure display I'll go for it. I have bought the Blazt cable and some software since I want get a feel for the engine's parameter. I did a lot of serious tuning on motorcycles so I'm not starting from scratch Cheer from London!

Hi! Yeah I thought so, but is it worth the effort? Wouldn't it make more sense buying a modern ball bearing unit? How mach does the conversion cost? Cheers ..

Hi there ... 230KW sounds quite nice.... and about right for my car. I'll check it out (but what is HighFlow?) (sorry for the question, I got the Skyline just 8 Months and it was sitting mainly in the garage since I had to work abroad) Btw. Is it of any use to adjust the lever of the actuator just a few millimeters. I was thinking that this might shift the whole boots curve a bit higher while still maintaining the overall boost level adjustment done by the ECU. Or do I risk that the swing valve does not close fully when it should be fully shut? (I'm just thinking aloud and have no idea whether the actuator is adjustable at all)

Hi there ... Thanks for the quick reply.. I see that you have a S2 too Mine is a late 1997, I guess one of the last ones build? I will check out your recommendations. Foremost I'm looking for quick spool up time and wide power band. Cheers to OZ!

Hello there, I was wondering if there is a turbocharger (kit?) that is good up to 325-400HP and just plugs in like the original. By 'plug in' I mean that I want to install back the standard heat shield so the engine looks neat and genuine. Cheers from London, Andrew

Hmmm ... Quite interesting ... But I think that depending on the ignition system there actually could be two sparks forming. If the ignition voltage/energy is not very high there will be just one spark developing, and it this makes perfectly sense... However, if there is a very energetic ignition system present, it's a whole different story. I will check in a lab test which way the sparks go. Thanks for the link!

But if you look at the picture you see that both electrodes are on earth. (Or did I get you wrong?) The spark should therefore distribute evenly between the 3 electrodes... (at least that was my idea about the whole thing)

Hmmm .. interesting! What do you think causes the heatup? As for 'the less plug, the better' I agree. I don't know how the combustion chamber (in the head) looks like in a Skyline. Does the plug sit in some kind of recess or is it just 'dangling' in the middle? Cheers, Andrew

Hi, But doesn't the area where the ignition actually happens increase due to the 2 electrodes? ?