Torques

Hi ..... That's strange and must be confusing They play all one by one if you click on the video's play button .. What kind of computer/browser are you using? Maybe I can investigate what's wrong....

Very nice ...

Yep, you are correct .. it's from 2002: And if you say Oldschool, what are they using these days for tuning? Is the R33 still a good buy, or obsolete? I sometimes wonder whether I'm too late with starting my Skyline ownership .. (Since I bought one of the last R33 GTSTS2 (11/97) rolling off the assembly lines ) Many cheers ..

Hello all ... The URL had to be changed and I added another video .. (R33 ShootOut) New URL

Hello there ... I have made a new attempt at the videos. It's not perfect but seems to be working (at least on my side of the globe:)). Please let me know if you have any stutter or playback issues. It's best viewed with Internet Explorer it seems .. (sorry about that) Here's the link: R33 GTST /34 GTT And Related

Yep, far too less of this kind around. It's no nonsense with proper before and after dynos ... I have updated the page for the video, now showing 2 more stages ... however there seems to be some kind of network problem. The sound stutters at times ... I might have to upload it again. R34 GTT Stages

Hello there ... A valid request I'll see to it, alright?? Cheers from rainy London, Andrew

Hello there, After replacing my SMIC I drafted a small step-by-step manual for the removal of the R33 Spec2 grill. It might not be pretty or well structured but I hope it does help How 2 Remove The Front Grill Cheers, Andrew

Hi Dave, I have never heard of a UK release and if there was one it would have been 'spread' eventually To my knowledge the R33 was not sold outside Japan, so there is most likely no official version of it. Believe me, I pulled all strings I could get hold of .. but no complete R33 manual.. The one 'floating' around is for the engine, but nothing else covered. A real mystery for such a popular car .. I see you come from Sydney? How bad was this red dust storm you had over there? I saw it on the news and it looked like a scene from planet Mars Cheers from London, Andrew

Yep, You're right .. They did not ask for any down payment (I thought they would by following the link) But I will buy the manual ... most definitely

Hi there I have received the following ... (do you people think it's save to send any money?) --> Hi, We now have a sufficient number of requests to translate the 1993~1997 Nissan SKYLINE Code: WM107 workshop/repair manual. We now need enough people to confirm they are still interested so we can begin work on the manual. Kindly CONFIRM OR DECLINE by clicking on the link below. See below the process that will follow: 1. We ask all who made a request to confirm they still want the manual via the link below. (Please only confirm if you will defiantly purchase. If you have decided not to purchase the manual please use the same link to decline and remove your request.) Please note if you don't confirm or decline you will continue to receive these emails sent automatically from our system. 2. Once we have enough confirmed we ask for a $30 deposit to secure your manual. 3. We start translation of the original Japanese factory manual once we ask for deposits and expect to publish in 8 weeks time. 4. Once manual is complete we ask for the total (NZ $70.00 + post) 5. You will receive your manual in 5 to 10 working days. Please note we will then offer the manual for sale on our web site for NZ $150.00 + post. The price you are paying is the discounted amount of NZ $100.00 + post which is only available to people who requested the manual and have been through the above process. Sections expected to feature in this manual are as follows: General information and maintenance. Engine mechanical. Engine lubrication & cooling systems. Fuel & emission control systems. Engine electrical equipment. Clutch Front & rear axle. Manual / automatic transmission Steering Propeller shaft, Brake system Wheels & tyres Suspension, Interior equipment, Trouble shooting and diagnosis. Electrical diagrams

Hi! I made myself 4 2-inch thick rubber plates with a 1-inch deep slit in it. These pads I put over the sill behind the wheels befor I jack the car up. However I have not too much faith in these sill points, although that's what the workshop manual recommends. Somehow these points don't feel rigid enough to me ... My other cars I jacked up using the curved part of the side member. (Nissan prohibits using the side members at all) Sigh ... any other ideas? I have attached the manual pages for jacking up the car ..

Hi! HaHaHa ... no war on my side I'll do my homework (though I thought I've done some) but apparently I need to read a bit more on the topic .. It seems turbo operation is not as straight forward as I though. The mistake I've made was the assumption that when the engine revs high the turbo is doing the same. (and that's what you generally read) So I was wondering why there is no boost reading at cruise level. Nevertheless you guys pointed me in the right direction .. thanks! (I'll be back with more 'silly' questions ) And btw. I got an answer on a UK site, and this guy had written about 2000 posts! He claimed I have no boost because the swing valve would be open at cruise ... so how's that ? Good nite then ..

Hi there ...I think I understood .. So if you rev the engine at a constant 5000 rpm (for example going straight on a highway in last gear) the turbo must still be working hard and produce pressure, right? And if you floor it then (at 5000 rpm) the turbo spools up even more thus producing more pressure than the engine can consume.. right? And that's the moment where the boost gauge comes into positive territory ..

I see ... it dawned on me after I submitted the post In other words the turbo is not delivering enough pressure to hold the engine under load .. (Engine is breathing away all the turbo ca deliver ..) How is it with the larger turbos then? Do they deliver constant pressure at say 4500? Cheers and thanks for the help ..

Hello there, I hope this is not a silly question.... (I'm relatively new to the Skyline and turbos) When I drive the car at say 4500rpm in last gear and with a steady foot at the pedal shouldn't I be reading some constant boost at the build in gauge?? The thing is, that I don't! The boost gauge hovers around 0 to -. However when I floor it the gauge goes up (to 4) but comes down when a constant speed is reached. I'm starting to suspect that there might be a leak in the intake system ... Or maybe I'm not familiar with how boostlevels are maintained. Any hints are greatly appreciated

Hi ... I have requested the manual at their site, thanks Though I have searched high and low as well, I could not even find the Japanese version ... (it must be out there .... somewhere Many thanks for the input. Cheers from London!

Thanks God! There's another guy looking for the real manual Funnily no one else seems to bother ....???! I need the full wiring diagram as well ... (that's what I'm looking for) I'll dub them The Lost Scrolls from now on ... it's very mysterious, isn't it? If I come up with something I'll let you know. Promised!

Hi! Thanks for the info ... But this manual is the same that is floating around .. It's 'just' the Engine-Manual, not the whole thing. Sigh - I guess I have to be still looking

Hi! I was wondering with a car as popular as the R33 Skyline how come there is no chassis/body/electrical workshop manual available??? I got the complete workshop manual package for the R32, but for the R33 it's 'just' the engine workshop manual floating around. It's a total mystery to me ... (and it's annoying ) Any ideas where the complete package is to be found? Can it be bought? Who has it? Looks like this -> Cheers ...

If you PM me your VIN-Code I could look it up in the parts system ... Cheers

Hi there ... I see, your grill is not exactly SMIC friendly No wonder you switched over to the FMIC. If it wasn't for the good price I would have gone for the FMIC myself but I want to gain experience with the car step by step. So the R34 SMIC seemed like something reasonable to start from. Cheap, easy to fit and modest gains (?) (especially with the standard turbo) My car is 99% stock and right now I'm just aiming at stage I tuning. As for the R32 actuator I agree, however these are hard to find (I keep looking though) Cheers and good nite

Hello to the new day and NZ .. Thanks for the heads up ... So What you're saying is that you just detach the grill on the left side? Or do you remove the whole thing this way? But I guess I got the picture and you have to reach behind the inner guard to get started. As for boost pressure I agree ... it's definably safe at 10PSI .. and heard 10-12 would be alright too. (but that's a discussion as old as the R33 ... right? More importantly .. did you feel any difference due to the R34 intercooler? I got the SMIC for a good price, and having just the standard turbo I thought it might be worth a shot (A boost controller is on its way from Japan too ... so it might be playtime for me soon ) I'll keep you posted with some pictures! Cheers from the past, Andrew

Hello Sarkis, I hope you're still around since your original post is 3 years in the past .. I have the car that you have (had?), and the R34 SMIC is also here ready to go in. Could you please tell me how to remove the front grill? (and what else has to be removed) And does the R34 SMIC fit right in, or are there any modifications necessary? How did the story with your car go on from there? Did the Turbo eventually fall apart due to the higher boost? Let me know, I'm curious to hear the whole story Cheers from London ...

Hi there ... I hope this is the right forum .. I need to remove the front grill on my S2 since I have to change the side mounted intercooler. Is there a guide (best with pictures) how to do this? And is it much work? Of course I want to avoid any scratches (OMG!!) or marks due to improper removal attempts, so any help is highly welcomed. Thanks in advance, Andrew