Torques

Hi, But doesn't the area where the ignition actually happens increase due to the 2 electrodes? ?

Hi there ... Thanks for the information .. I was already scratching my head why there is BC and BK when it's the same thread diameter anyway. Cheers from London

Hi there ... What bigger machines do you mean? Cheers!

Just wondering if anybody has ever tried the spark plugs with dual electrodes (in the picture right) (do you have them in OZ at all?) I use them in my motorcycle and it is definitely a huge improvement over the standard plugs. Of course I don't know about the Skyline, but I will give it a try .. Cheers from London CLick here for the picture ...

Hello there ... BCPR6ES -> BC = TREAD DIAMETER = 14mm PR = PROTECTED INSULATOR + RESISTOR 6 = HEAT RANGE E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm S = STANDARD SPARK PLUG TYPE BKR6E-11 -> BK = THREAD DIAMETER = 14mm R = RESISTOR 6 = HEAT RANGE E = THREAD LENGTH = 19mm 11 = SPARK GAP = 1.1mm So the only difference between those 2 is that you have a protected insulator type (whatever this is?) and a standard gap as opposed to 1.1mm. I hope this helps Cheers from London, Andrew

Hi Birds, Thanks for insisting and I will check definitely consider your input. I'm not sure though that the noise occurs only in neutral and will have to check. Is there a workshop manual around that covers the gearbox? Cheers, Andrew

Hi! There is no whining noise .. it's more of a grumble And when I'm driving down the road you can't hear the noise since it's so faint. Cheers ...

Hi .. I definitely think it's the bearing from the clutch (clutch release bearing). It's a common diagnosis and I know the sound of it quite well Cheers ...

Hi there and thanks for the input. Should I replace the bearing or just ignore the noise? If the clutch was not working properly I would replace the whole thing right away. But it's just fine .. Maybe I rather wait till the clutch needs replacement or the noise gets too loud to ignore. Any thoughts on this? Cheers from London, Andrew

Hello there, I have this 1997 GTST-S2 genuine Skyline and I just had it for a few months. The car is in perfect shape but when I release the clutch pedal in neutral I hear this faint grumbling and grinding noise. (a co driver wouldn't notice the noise at all) I had the same noise on my older BMW, but it was much more pronounced. (and it happened to be the clutch bearing) The Skyline's clutch operates perfectly fine so I am wondering if that noise is probably normal? Thanks for the input ... Cheers from London, Andrew

Alright ... I'll check in an hour .. As for the car I agree, they had more the performance aspect in mind. Nevertheless they fitted a 4 speaker system and added lots of weight by using electric windows / AC and other gimmicks. I personally like the luxury aspect of my Skyline (without it I wouldn't have bought it ) Cheers from London, Andew

Hi there, yes ... the offset drill came to mind As for drilling from the boot I'll check that possibility but there seems to be the battery holder in the way .. (My battery is in the trunk of the car) It's all very tight and no easy access. Same goes for the cover that sits in the rear below the window. It's snapped right and left to the sides of 2 plastic covers. It was a pain to remove Why did Nissan not just provide standard openings for the speakers? Would have been so much easier Cheer from London, Andrew

Hello there, I am in the process of fitting new speakers in the back (16.5cm). The speakers fit alright, but I might have trouble drilling holes for the screws holding the speakers. Is there a way drilling proper holes without removing the rear window? (that I won't do) The owner before me didn't bother and didn't fix the speakers at all .. (and that is not an option for me ) Cheers ...

Hello ... and sorry for the delay in replying. 51.7149 mmHg = 1 PSI 362.0043 mmHg = 7 PSI My boost gauge goes to (when I floor the pedal @ 5000 rpm) +5 = 500 mmHG = 9.67PSI. Since I drive an unmodified Skyline 9.67PSI sounds a bit high. Cheers, Andrew

Hi ... Many thanks for that, but it looks more like the engine wiring, not the body wiring. (I need doors, lights, central looking, switches on so forth) I'll have a close look later on. Many cheers, Andrew

Hello there, I'm looking for the wiring schematics for a R33 GTST. I'm planning on installing a remote entry system with alarm and need these in order to find the right wires. Thanks, Andrew

Hello there .. As I said .. go for a brand name 5W-40/0W-40 synthetic oil / semi synthetic oil. Mobil/BP .. I did the same with my GTS-T. My car is used as a standard car, not a racer on the track .. I like going fast, but I don't think I rev the car a lot above 5000rpm. (Most of the time rather between 3000 and 4500rpm) I have BP VISCO 5000 filled in the engine. Here's an overview about oils: http://www.infast.ee/eng/catalog.php?cathid=8 Here's a wear test: http://www.discovery-oil.com/products/comparison.htm Visco 5000 is at rank #3 as for wear and it is noteworthy that the much praised Shell Helix did not so well! Here's what BP recommends for your engine/car (search for your engine) http://www.ew2.lubesinfo.com/frameset.asp?...04&langid=1 That should do ... .. now go for an oil change Cheers, Andrew

[quote name= Could u please quote that thread or copy it or email it or something. I can't read i'm but am very keen to. Hi there ... Sorry about that, I didn't realized you had to be registered to follow the link. I will talk to the admin in the UK how to access the article. I'd be feeling kinda bad if I'd just copy and paste it .. However, the guy who gave the answers to all the questions has it all posted here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/technicalinfo.aspx#technical Cheers, Andrew

Hi! Because Motul is Ester based .. and therefore more sheer stable! Meaning the oil does not deteriorate from mechanical stress that quickly. Read this (it's a good article from a guy who definitely is not interested in selling any snake oil) http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77396 Cheers, Andrew

I change the oil+filter if : The oil looks quite dark/used A certain time has passed (once a year at least) Or a certain distance has been covered Changing the oil every 5000km is definitely not a bad thing, but when using HQ oil (as you do) you could probably extend the interval .. (unless you move the car on the track) Cheers, Andrew

Hi .. It all depends what load you impose on the engine. In my case I drive a fairly standard R33GTSTS2 and I definitely don't need no oil deemed for racing purposes. I will stick with 5W-40 in a good quality (Mobile, Shell, BP ..) As long as the oil: Is shear-resistant Is thin enough at cold start to lubricate all parts quickly (so 5-W) Is thick enough at high temperatures Is suitable for turbo lubrication Makes the valve lifters happy Keeps the engine clean (no sludge buildup) I'm fine with a 'standard' oil. Here's a good article .. http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77396 Cheers, Andrew

Yes ... I did use the search feature ... I bought a R33GTST 6 month ago, and would like to change most of the fluids. Can someone please enlighten me: What type (grade) of oil is used by Nissan in the gearbox and the differential? Cheers, Andrew

Hi there .. I was confronted with the same problem, my Skyline needed an oilchange and I was wondering what the best treat would be. I did a lot of reading and scrolled through many messages. In addition I called the usual Skyline maintenance shops in the UK for a quote for an oil change and it ranged from 200AUD to 270AUD. They said they had just one high performance oil that they were using for their oil changes. But since I don't race my Skyline that was too expensive (and a waste) for me. In the end I used a synthetic oil 5W40 from BP. The oil change did cost me around 110AUD with filter! And that was done by a workshop where you just drive by without an appointment. My recommendation is using a 5W40 or 10W50 oil of a well known brand. It can be a semi synthetic or fully synthetic. However, if you subject the car to a lot of load and rev it like hell on the track you should consider going for one of the more expensive oils. Cheers, Andrew

Hello there! I own a R33S2, I bought it last year and had it only for 4 months. (So excuse the naive question) But how do I interpret the boost gauge reading? It goes from -7 to +7, right? But when I drive the gauge only hovers around -3 to +2, but it never goes over +2 or +3 .. Shouldn't it go up to +7 for full boost?? I floored the pedal 70% at around 5000rpm in 5th gear, but the gauge only went to about +3. Do I have to floor it all the way to get full boost or should the boost have come up more already? Thanks for the help .. Andrew

Hi there! Yes ... it's called a hoist (silly me) Thanks for the input, much appreciated. Cheers from London, Andrew