psi

Yeah sorry about writing about unrelated subjects. The Shims u refer to for the intake cam. What are they, and how do they work? what are they worth to purchase? Are they worth the money? How much 'adjustment' can they give u? So many Q's! Cheers.

well said Warren!

Warren u silly coot, mite i ask who fixes ur Stagea and fits very very cheap parts for u? hmm.. I DO! Some mate u r!! I would also like to add that i finish at 3.30! ha! even though i start at 5.50am! and i work lots of saturdays! Some of those days are WASTED on ur yellow volvo! I'm also starting an internet suspension business.. and run skid days.. and fix dungers for people who cant afford to fix them. do u? no! u just sit in ur air con office and sometimes drive a diesel powered junker full of kids! ha ha! U call that work?? So wozza, what else do u need for that yellow volvo? ohh, ur rear camber bushes will be here monday.. & the price just went up! hmm... and who is gonna fit them? probably ME! my poor car is never gonna get any new mods at this rate! Thanks for the info SK! When i do the rear camber bushes or the stagea, we'll take some foto's and post them up. Last weekend we fitted pineapples.. but we both forgot to take a camera, Hopefully we can reinstall them for some photo's for those who want to do it themselves! Any other thoughts..

i am not bad mouthing any body, or any club. I have not interest in that sort of thing. We abide by Roadcraft rules, and insurance. Our primary aim is education.. we don't portray ourselves as motorsports guys. as for the price.. like i said, we limit the cars to a MAX of 16 cars. That ensures plenty of skid time. If we were to take a lot higher number of cars, everybody would get a lot less time on the skidpan. I personally prefer lots of track time, so thats what we aim for. If a club wants to have 50 or more cars, good for them. But it isn't the approach we take. We aim at education, sharpening ur skills, changing ur mindset, encourage u to drive ur car in a safe invironment, in a safe way to increase your understanding of what you and ur car are doing. We do not do motorkhana's, our timed event is to simply practise your new skills. it just a bit of fun! I hope that settles that. Any other thoughts..

There have been many different 'clubs' use the skid pan here in gympie. Unfortunatly not all of them take the approach we do! If u come to a skid day though us, well lets just say if u dron't burn at least 1/2 a tank of fuel u didn't drive hard enuff! Under the Roadcraft rules we are not allowed to drift.. HOWEVER, we do lots of powersliding and throattle oversteering and hand brake turns and such. The cost is $100. we cannot make that any cheaper because of the cost to hire the skid pan is fixed. For that, u and ur partner/ mechanic get free BBQ lunch and drinks all day. We also run a small compitiion in the arvo so we also have some car oreited prizes. I drive my R33 on the limit most of the day, i often burn MORE than 1/2 a tank. As do the other drivers. Because we have small numbers, U GET HEAPS OF TRACK TIME! Any thoughts... Feel free to PM me

3intheback and I run skid days at our local skid pan here in gympie! We run 4 days a year and anybody with boost is welcome! we have restricted car numbers to 16, which means LOTS of track time. u get a FREE BBQ lunch and FREE drinks ALL day! All enterants get 4min at a time on the skid pan to drive as mild or wild as they see fit, as long as all the basic rules are adheared too. We have a tech session where enterants gain information from our sertified instructor. the instuctor is also know for his driving passion and has competed in many different forms of motorsport. A typical day runs like this: Free time, skid / slide session Quick tech session circut and track work tech session More track work timed event free skid / slide session We have lunch on the run to maximise track time.. Anybody interested, PM me or PM 3intheback! Any thoughts..

FYI, i've made a circut to run my 16" fan, however i have not used it yet. so it is not proven... Anyway, My thoughts were to run the fan when it is required, and run half speed (or less) when not triggered by the ecu. The plan was to try and smooth out the heat cycles that would happen with the conventional on/off set up. Now to speed up the warming process, the 1/2 speed function will not happen until the fan has been triggered by the ecu when the engine reaches operating temp after start up. Anyway, i'm useing a change over relay for the center of the system. As well as a normal relay. A diode (one way electrical valve) a fuse (for saftey)and to get the half speed function, a ballast resistor. I'll post a picture of the circut later.. i need to find an ecu temp trigger, or make one! Any thoughts on my project?

Hi SK, I just read the whole thread, and like EVERYBODY else, would be very interested in a before and after dyno sheet. I hear you loud and clear about buying a Wheelie-bin full of time. If you buy some time, can i buy some as well! I am about to do the conversion (along with 4 or so other things) so it will be hard for me to do a comparison. I normally try to test on the same bit of road with a stop watch, and get my copilot to take some readings... but there is only so many daylight hours to do such things and I will be left no option but to do ALL the current jobs at once. The end result should be a delightful outcome. Even though it is not my prefered method to gain that outcome! U have inspired me to take photo's and post the mods i do, Great work. Any other thoughts..

I have wondered this question myself after explaining to my poor wife that 'i just need another...' If ever I actually get to a point where 'Thats enuff" then i guess i'd get bored and build my own car from scratch. But thats just me! Any other idea's?

Staggering the adjustment is a two edged sword. The Best advantage to the stagering of the sway bar settings we have found is this. Because a sway bar applies mechanical pressure to the spring (which loads it up more) in a corner, it is often used to help flatten a car during the cornering process. We have found that staggering the sway bar (soft setting on on side/ hard on the other) that it is possable to 'tune' the suspension a little better to suit a particular track. This helps tyre wear, car balance and other such things. This helped when on a left turn track. (more turns left than right, or vise versa) By swapping the staggers around, we found the vehicle tended to understeer more in some corners. On the street, i would recomend not staggering the bar for this reason. The car tends to be a little vague when turning one way as opposed to the other. Its because the leavering effect. But at the end of the day, try it.. and be aware of these things. Any other thoughts.

how is ur front tyre wear? are you wearing the inside or outside edges out of one of your tyres? Sometime in even low speed crashes is is possable to bend things. control arms are common, king pin even split a bush. Like SK said, do some measurements! check the wheel base is square. Even if it is square does rule it totally out! check that the 'bar' that joins your hub to the control arms isn't bent or twisted. Look to see that a bush isn't squishing out the sides of its housing. Tyre wear tells many stories! tyre choice also plays a very large part of this problem as well. directional tyres often have a bad tendency of doin this at even low speed! Rim/Tyre width can also play havok.. A really good wheel alginment operator would easily point any of the above issues out to u! even the wheel bearing issue! If they don't offer this info to you, find somebody else who will. Any other thoughts

I recently suffered the same issue with a freinds turbo VL. We changed 4 second hand clutch fans, remotely triggered the air con fan with an extra power wire (so the air con can still run the fan at it's will) and the old RB still would not stop cooking. Pulled the radiator apart and it was clugged up quite bad. The cleaner radiator really helped. but on the stinking hot days it was still getting to hot. Ended up buying a brand new clutch for the fan and the whole problem is now gone. He also now has the bonus of turning on the extra fan at his will and it aids in cooling the air-con and intercooler as well! Any other thoughts..

Just chasing some injectors from 13b i think there either series 4 or 5 the pink/purple 550cc denso's 195500-2020 Thats the part number i need as there 13.7 ohm or something i need 6 of these thanks. Any thoughts where i can get them?

i'm interested in the cam gear!

the biggest problem in my area is that the 'hoons' tear up the neighbourhood in crappy old VN's and EB's. dungers with rust and bald tyres and shot suspension! Not many of the 'hoons' are import boys. sure they give it a thrashing here and there, but generally most of them are not too bad. There seems to be a very large, bad ora around performance cars and hoons from the public. in an effort to make my community better, I run skid days at the local skid pan (i know most of you cant get to em), the very very sad thing is, most of the 'hoons' don't want to spend money and do it legally! We teach a variety of cool things like power sliding and throttle oversteering, yet the hoons wont come.. instead we find the older performance nutters like tradesman, IT and businessman come! I see the problem like this.. and its two fold. 1. There are few places that cater to these sorts or activities(and most of them are spread out). If area's were allocated to this sort of driving, there would be a decrease of it on the streets. A friday nite burnout comp! heck i would love to run 1.. if only the council would permit!! 2. Education! here lies the biggest key in my opinion. Teach the hoons about the basics. teach them that they actually can't drive from the back seat.. teach them that one day they are gonna have kids doin stuff like this around their streets.. teach them that u cant brake the laws of physics and live! any thoughts..

like the name says. I just took delivery of my brand new sard fuel pressure reg. After lookin at my fuel rail, i realise that i need an adaptor, or modification! has anybody done a tricky mod, or bought some sort of adaptor? can i just make one? any advise?

i have been searching for some idea's about this myself. I have found little information reguarding this brace. However, if you stick your head inside any real racing car, you will find that a bar has been added here as part of a roll cage. my racebook says that the bar is very helpful in absorbing side impacts. If that is all it does, GREAT! as for rigidity, hmm please keep as all posted

in the pics i sent ska via warren, the R34 (neo) stagea turbine is the larger unit. The smaller one is the series 1 stagea(R33), (or series 2 skyline).

i wouldn't get to deep in thought about it. I had to put my std BOV back on to keep the local cop happy! it works fine with 14psi from a GT3040, so ur hiflow booster shouldn't upset it!

15kw. hmm. did the torque curve move around with the different housing? i'm guessing the smaller turbine run out of puff in the top end.. but if the torque curve was up early, then it would not be a bad thing. after all, how often do you drive your car at peak revs?

Anybody noticed that when nissan changed from series 1 skyline to the series 2, the compressor changed from alloy to plastic compiste. they have the same OD, but the alloy compressor is higher than that of the plastic unit. The Neo also has the plastic compressor. From wot i can see, the compressor housings have not changed from the series 1 skyline to the Neo in the Skyline or stagea.. hmm. Anyone got somethin different?

the stagea is bit of a heavy old girl. Nissan knew this and built the engine slightly different to the skyline. Things like smaller intake plenum runners to enduce torque at lower engine revs & different tuneing and so on. So with that in mind, the smaller turbine would really be helpful.I would think it should help try and maximise the torque curve. well that is if it is a family taxi!! If it isn't a baby hauler, the larger turbine would help if you are building a maximium effert engine were every factory component is pushed to its end. like injectors, plenums, turbo and the like. (the dear stuff) I would like to note that the numbers on the series 1 Skyline turbine arethe same as the stageaseries 1. Go figure! I would like to point out that the Neo engine gained hp over its older brother. Bigger HP was supported by a slightly larger intercooler and the turbine seems to to be the same. I wonder wot other small things they changed?? thats a whole new thread i think..

talking about pistons... I am quite sure that the dirty old VG30 has a slightly larger bore than the RB30. if i remember rightly, it is 0.5 mm. i'll check that.. Anyway, i havn't actually seen it for myself, but i've been led to beleive that they are a flat top style piston. I you bored the RB30 to suit it get you closer to the 9:1 comp ur after. most know that the VG also had a turbo version, so use that piston! wouldn't be the most ideal setup for making bulk power, but a good sound setup for a mild streeter.. Its worth the consideration and checking pins fit and deck height and all the usual stuff... That help??

a lot of people get really hung up on turbo choice. One guy says this turbo and another says to use his favourite brand. Learn how to read a compressor map and go crunch some numbers. That will quickly point u in the right direction. From there you can make a wise and educated choice. Once you are in the right area, it WILL save you heaps, and not wast cash. I've been there done that!! I've a very similar set-up ATM and i'm very happy with my GT3040R. slight lag and solid top end power.. Hope it helps.

I have been given a bosch 070 fuel pump. it is apparently rated at 130L @ 5 Bar and given a 280hp rating. The bosch 910 has the same specs with 130L @ 5 bar and has a 380hp rating. Does this NOT make sense to anybody else?? how can two different pumps with the SAME flow rates be rated at different HP?? I was going to put it into my R33 for a fuel upgrade. But now i don't think so... can anybody explain this...