psi

I've got a 45 turbonetics gate with a GT3040, and on 10psi, a 40mm pipe was too small. the boost kept on climbing! it now has a 50mm pipe and that solved that. if i were to do it again, i would fit a 55 just to be sure. Dump pipe. No brainer, At least a 4inch! 4.5 if u can fit it!

I know this is a bit left feild, but in the past i used a truck muffler. Now before u get all bent out of shape about it.. Donaldson truck stuff is VERY good. If you can track down a catalog, they go into great detail about their stuff. Noise surpression, flow rates, HP figures and all! I used a 3.5 inch muffler under the back of an old project, and it was the best thing i bought for it! no drone, quiet but a very deep sound. I'm not sure if they make a low profile type, but its worth looking at.. I have not seen ANY other muffler makers do that much detail about their products! check it out! ohh, most of their range go from 2.5inch to 6 inch!

So now we all know it can be done, I have heard of others playing the same game and have been up to their eyeballs for months tring to beat that test. Its a real credit to u. The biggest question is now this.. How come u can acheive this? you have a serious HP figure, reasonably good ecconomy, U passed the EPA test and I'm guessing that u passed the noise test. So why do Australian cars keep getting made with such poor performancce! If just one poor bloke can tackle the issue and work his way through it, then what is going on with the engineers at Holden and Ford? I hope they NEVER figure out what we want in a car.. I'll just buy my next car off you thanks! hmm, so y did u have to get the certificate to start with? Anyway GREAT WORK! I like to keep my car leagal, i guess now i should copy your lead!

mine did that after i put the new clutch in it. it was the throw out bearing! it may be the same thing. I swapped the bearing, and now after 10k, the new one has started doin it when the pedal is half way out!

That looks like it has some very useful stuff in there. I better say goodbye to my wife for a week while i dig around in there. Thanks heaps.. i didn't feel like fixing the car, no i have a good reason to be busey!

After all is said and done, its a helmet. designed to keed up your head from looking like a busted watermelon in an accident. Try (if you can) to get the very highest quality you can afford, ask yourself.. what is your head worth to you? Bear in mind that some motoring organisations require a set standard of hemet. make sure u exceed this standard and check out what other motoring bodies use as their standard. You never know when you may want to try something different with a mate or something.. You don't want to be stuck in a situation where your helmet is the only thing stopping you from doin somethin new! Even though it is a great helmet.. any other thoughts..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...157088&st=0 this is a thread on some poor nutter tring to do similar on a GTR. they are much harder. but take a leaf out of his book! be prepared for the worst! the GTS-t turbo is not that bad to work on. I have a small plastic tool box full of old turbo bolts and brakets and fittings. They come in very handy right when you think you don't need them. my advise is to keep every last bit of it. U may not like the new set up, and want to return it to where u started. u may loose something or worse, break it! keep the extra stuff! I took all the intake hoses and stuff out of the way, the cross over pipe and BOV. rolled the car out of the shed and drained the coolant from the radiator (there is an screw in the bottom). pushed the car back inside and and removed the dump pipe. unbolted turbo and carefully pulled the turbo off. make sure u don't lose the brass washers off the banjo bolts on the turbo. swap the parts u want to swap, and do the hole process backwards.. Before unbolting the turbine housing, use a yellow paint marker and dot the housing position. it will help u when u are putting it all back together. ohh, be very careful when tightening up the turbine housing to cartridge. make sure that the wheels can turn freely. i've seen guys do these up cock eyed, and the turbo doesn't spin! any other thoughts

Let us all know when u start this little adventure into the unknow.. I'll turn up with my one and only special spanner that the fairies forgot about because i think they had to much of that pain numbing liquid.. then maybe a few other fairy victims could also drag them selves there in time, and we all could delve deeeeeeeeep into the land of unforgiving engineering blunders and hopefully most of us will emerge out the other side with an upgraded car and not to many fingers missing.. maybe i'm beeing unfair on the fairies, it COULD have been their cousins.. the pixies! Rest easy, after that lot are finished with you, you should be prepared for what the bolt cretins will do to you. I've been lead to beleive that they take pride in tripping up meddling modders like us. They eat half way through bolts so they snap, crew corners off bolts heads so they are round and seize anything else that may one day need to be replaced... You just gotta love a device that will keep men in sheds for prolonged periods. This devise is know to cause divorce, heart-ache, bankruptcey, skinned knuckles and on rare days.. JOY! They are much more to some, and less to others.. BUT WE ALL HATE TO LOVE THEM AT SAME POINT! we are all poor defenceless, pain ridden, spannerless, skinless buggers.. But hey, my car is going.. well it did this morning!

i put a series 2 engine into my series one. I swapped the coils & throttle from my old engine straight over.. everything else clipped and bolted straight up! the AFM is also different, but thats not actually part of what u are talking about.

Rule of thumb.. For every 1 kg u shave off your rim/tyre combo, it is equivilant to shaving 2 - 3 kg off your body! add to that the rolling diameter of the new rims.. u do the maths..

ok guys, 1 of my regular skidders has a slipping clutch, so now there is ONE spot free! first in, best dressed! Cheers. Aaron

its not a new idea. toyota is a local company who do it well. Honda have done it for quite some time and then you have one of the masters of doing it.. BMW. the humble RB just wasn't designed to do it.. and for the pain and headache of getting it all up and running.. y would anybody bother. cam upgrades are a cheaper and easyer optioon. sure if you had a maxium effort engine that was already stretched to its limit and you were desperatly tring to get a less peaky engine, that had a wider torque curve, then i would go for it! but good luck with that one.. there is always somedody thinkin outside the square. Go for it and be famous for the first bugga to do it. make sure u take heaps of photo's so we all can copy u! any other thoughts

I did the same thing to an old na VL about 6 years ago. it made 175 hp with 7.5psi. made it with a stock na ecu, auto and injectors. It was no power house, but the higher than turbo compression ratio made it snap onto boost at about 2100rpm. it had a very flat power curve and very strong torque. the only thing i had to do was reset the timing to 10.5 degress (because of the na ecu). it made 207 hp on 9psi with water methonal injection. No intercooler. Wot i'm saying is this, anything with a sound mechanical base usually works fine. Stressing an na engine a fair way may require some careful thought and planning. I would check rod and piston strength, injectors wont make the 200kw so they will be goin anyway, ecu has to go get tuned or swapped. cams? valve springs could pose an issue.. the list goes on.. Any other thoughts..

Everybosy prepays. That prevents people backing out and leaving us with the bill for the facility. We have to pay for it reguadless of how many use it.. Each entry fee pays for one car. We don't mind if ur mate or wife/ girlfreind drive. However they must be there all day and adhear to all the rules like everbody else. If they get asked to leave for breaking the rules, so do you. We find this encourages people to play nice! So, 2 drivers can drive the same car. U can 'share' the car, and the car only goes out the same amount of times as everybody else, or you both pay, and the car goes twice. Cheers. Aaron

the turbo fairies drank my pain releif, stole 4 of my 5 specially bent spanners, bent an oil line, lost the copper washes for the banjo bolts and left the torch on.. the little buggers didn't return any of the stuff and never finished the job... The book never covers half of the stuff you really need to know and I'm convinced the fairies nicked off with the one page that actually may have helped.. I pitty any poor pixy or fairy that i get my hands on.. i also pitty any poor bugga that starts the job with the pain releif! But looking at the task in hand, i do understand! Good luck with that one!

March 10! 8 hours of fun and learning!

received pm. Sent info. Anybody else wishing to have fun and learn some skills? we have 2 spots still free.

is that a zzom mag? or hpi? i've got a bunch of that stuff i've put onto cd for my own referance. i'll have a look tonite

ohh, i forgot.. some people use scotch brite pads to fill the canistor . These work very well as well. For an even more serious effort, u can fit the scotchbrite into the vent flutes inside the rocker cover. this helps keep the oil in the engine to start with. Be warned: make sure there is no way that the scotchbrite can be dislodged! this would be fatal to the engine. Also don't jamm it in there damn tight, otherwise it wont be able to breathe.

The idea behind the seperator is to remove oil fumes and vapour from the air (blow by) from the crankcase before it re-enters the engine to be burnt. In order to get the seperator to work to its best, it needs to do a few key things. 1. The seperator needs to be of large enough internal volume to slow the air stream which is laced with the oil fumes. The slower air means that there is enough time for the larger oil fumes to 'stick' to something and create a droplet. These droplets help 'grab' smaller droplets and removes lots more oil. 2. The seperator needs to have a massive amount of internal surface area. Buffles are not usually good enough to 'scub' the oil from the air. It is recomended that the seperator is filled with a substance that is not able to be disolved by petrol or engine heat. It also needs to be able to add a huge amount of surface area to the device. I use stainless steel wool (usually from under the sink). 3. In order to stay within the letter of the law, the EPA require that ALL air from the engine MUST be burnt. Oil/ air seperators, BOV's everything. So, the seperator needs to be reconnected to the intake tract. 4. For cleaning purposes, it is best to have a sperator that is easy to drain and clean. some use a drain hole in the bottom of the canistor which goes back to the sump. I just pull mine out and clean it everytime i do an oil change. I was amazed how much oil it caught!! Any other thoughts..

After you changed the pulley, did the dip in the power curve change?

done this sort of bending years ago. For tube, i found that the flat surface of the jig distorts the tube to much. I ended up machining the jib (the first effort was on the lathe, but it was too tigh). i machined a U type shape into some ply I glued together. the U has to be a very snug fit for the tube to prevent distortion. my second effort, well i found an odd lookin thing at a scrap yard that was cast iron. looked like it may have been a flywheel or something. It had a perfect 3 inch grove already cast into it! it had lots of wear in that area and my really old neighbour swares it would have had a rope belt on it. Bending 3 inch tube ended in ugly mangled bits of pipe. kinks galore! We had welded it to an old dozer (the neighbours) and used the car to pull the pipe round the flywheel. We repeated this many times and always ended the same. The same old neighbour told me about a trick of filling the pipe with sand. So, thats what i did next. YOU NEED HEAPS OF DRY SAND! but it worked. the sand helped the pipe keep its shape, 1 in 3 bends worked well, 1 sort of ok, and 1 was junk. Not a quick or easy method.. but do-able. I gave up on it, and went and bought some manderal pipe bends! That was 5 years ago, and last time i saw the dozer, the jig was still on it! So if u ever find an old dozer with some funky lookin bits welded to the tree pusher, It was me! Anyway it does work!

That's just a very small snipet of a normal day! I have to thank Leigh (the supra owner) for the DVD! Any other Q's, please PM me or 3intheback!

i made this to control my thermo fans. It may look a little complex, but it should work well. Basiclly it workls like this: when you start ur engine, its cold, so u don't want ur thermo's to run. thats good for the engine to warm up. When the ECU or thermal switch activates for the first time when the engine reaches operating temp, the fans gets turned on. When the fans cool the engine and the switch is deactivated, the change-over relay puts the power through the ballast resistor. This will run the fans at half speed.. (or less, depending on voltage drop through the resistor) this will reduce the thermal cycling effect that happens with normal on/off switches. When ignition power is stopped, the fans stop. Any thoughts..

Just so everybody understands, 3intheback and I are running this day off our own bat. This is not an exclusive SAU event, we are busily talking with the moderators to have an exclusive day for SAU! We ran 3 days last year and were are huge hit with all drivers. So i think we are on the right track. I posted this thread to encourage anybody who likes to do this sort of driving to come and some legal fun. We are aware that not everybody likes to drive like this.. But we love it! This will be the first skid pan day for this year, with 4 more to follow. If the date doesn't suit, maybe later in the year would be better. We will gladly welcome anybody who wishes to come play for the first time. Any other thoughts..