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Mr 20Valve

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Everything posted by Mr 20Valve

  1. I did mine with an Ozito replica dremel lying under the car on the floor of my driveway. A hoist is a great idea, let me tell you.
  2. A mate of mine is selling a set of Z33/V35 Brembo front & rear calipers if anyone with an M35 is interested... PM me if you're keen.
  3. Details of cooler with fan & thermostat pls...
  4. Silver aero M35 on President Ave Kogarah just now
  5. I see what you did there...
  6. Replaced upper control arms and ball joints & fitted new Superpro camber bushes, replaced both front wheel bearings and lower ball joints & fitted Superpro front caster bushes Two words: shit fight
  7. I'm sure I have never been present at such an event.
  8. The info is all interpreted through the OBD port by the HKS OB-Link, which is plugged into the car & sends the info to the android tablet (or phone) which is read & displayed by the corresponding app. HKS have a list of compatible vehicles that the OB-Link works on, not sure if the C34 is on there or not... The OB-Link cost me about $230 from Greenline
  9. I considered moving the DVD rom first up, but the cables to the back of it were so short, the only place you could really tuck it away is right where the passenger airbag sits. There's just no room under the dash without taking something else out & I wouldn't like the thought of cutting & extending the leads to somewhere else either, they look like they'd be pretty easy to screw up. I want too concerned about losing the factory screen capabilities (mine was even converted to English when I got it) - mainly because I had already lined up the Alpine 2din
  10. I've also got my phone in a cradle on the dash and the double-din screen to watch while i drive as well, just in case the gauges start boring me...
  11. i'm considering making a mould of the buttons below the screen & blanking it off, with the possibility of integrating a boost controller like an EVC6 or SBC i-Colour
  12. In case you're wondering, this is the tablet: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dapeng-i9800-6-Capacitive-Screen-Android-4-0-Dual-Sim-MTK6575-GPS-3G-Smartphone-/180947037207?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_PDAsAccessories_PDAs_JN&hash=item2a2148ac17 I got it for around $200 landed. It takes dual sim cards & a micro SD card - i've fitted a 32Gb micro-SD, but no sim cards... i've already got a smartphone & the sole purpose of this setup was to run the gauge cluster from the OB-Link, nothing more. I must say, it does the job very well. It probably does other things too, but I dont really give a shit. I've got a double din screen in the place of the factory headunit which has satnav, BT etc, so i dont really need the tablet for any of that. And if you're wondering where I put my triple gauges from the dash, I put them here: and they were joined by a pair of 45mm gauges showing oil temp & oil pressure
  13. Now, I went for a pretty permanent solution here & glued the tablet to the inside of the cradle with polyeurethane - i could have made up some kind of elaborate bracket system inside there (the tablet is very thin compared to the factor screen) but i'd had about 5 beers by that stage, so glue seemed like a good option at the time. The fit lengthwise was perfect. with the tablet sitting neatly in between the inside of the two slider channels, so snug in fact, it has no side to side movement whatsoever. Win. There is a small gap on the top & bottom of the tablet however, but if it's centred up properly, it's not very noticable - unlike in my case, because i got impatient & wanted to put the car back together, i mounted it all up before the polyeurethane had set propertly & the tablet slid down a few mil, leaving a slightly bigger gap at the top than at the bottom.... my defence is that I'd had about 9 beers by that stage & it semed like a good idea at the time. The only issues with mounting it all back in place were the location of the micro-USB port on the tablet - it sits dead centre in the middle of one of the slider channels, so I had to drill a hole in the channel & the tablet not gets its input externally through this hole when the cradle is in its raised position only - the cable has to be removed for it to slide back into the dash. I also had to remove a spring-loaded locating peg which helps the cradle re-alighn itself if you try pushing it back down while it's tilted forward/back.... no big deal, it just means I have to be more careful to centre the cradle before I push it back in. Pic below of the micro-USB to USB cable plugged into a cigarette lighter USB adapter for charging. The 2nd issue was the on/off button for the tablet - it's located on top, to the left of the cradle release button, which meant I had to drill a hole through the top of the cradle to access it & turn the unit on & off. I'll fix up a more permanent solution in the coming weeks in terms of a button that sits in the hole & actuates the power button on the tablet, but for now, I'm using a miniature screwdriver to poke into the hole & trun the power on/off when i need to. You can see the small hole in the cradle in the pic:
  14. Old screen in its cradle Rear section of cradle with factory screen removed & release button mechanism visible Front half of cradle which the tablet will sit inside Tablet sitting in place inside the front half of the cradle
  15. Ok, Duncbro is on the money. It's an OB-Link bluetoothed to an Android tablet which happens to be sitting in place of the factory screen. The original plan was to remove the old screen & mount a 7" tablet in there that I could hook up to the OB-Link via BT. Then I took the dash apart, measured up the innards of the screen cradle once the factory screen was removed & found i had 160mm to play with lengthwise & 95mm heightwise. So I did a bit of searching around & there's no 7" tablet that would fit without interfering with the slider tracks that enable the cradle to retract back into the dash. After a lot of research i found a 6" phablet (phone/tablet ) that would fit perfectly inside the cradle & still allow the home/menu/back buttons to be visible & able to be pressed. I'll post some pics below of the innards of the cradle (I had the intention of taking heaps more pics, but as always, I got sidetracked & only took a small handful...sorry)
  16. i had to go to work in a hurry, so didnt have much time to elaborate. that & i wanted to stir up some hate.
  17. There's 3 or 4 grades of Loctite thread sealant, if I was going to recommend one, it would be the softest of them... You don't need to superglue the fittings together (they're aluminium after all) - just provide a heat & oil proof seal in the threads.
  18. Also, don't rely on the rubber o-rings to seal the nipples in the adapter, use thread tape as well.
  19. Look for a sandwich plate that allows you to angle the lines to/from it at 45deg like the Greddy ones. Try to buy one similar to this: http://bit.ly/TJfXJw If the adapter is one that only has the inlet/outlet coming out at 90deg to the filter, chances are you'll foul the hoses on something like the aircon lines...
  20. f**k me, $444 for a gauge? And I thought Defi's were expensive!
  21. I wish the HDi intercooler was the same dimensions as your one Scott. Would make fitting decent sized oil coolers a lot simpler...
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