STATUS

we tracked the elusive 8" down for you

There is talk of a full colour interface..... but when... they wont say... in fact they will neither confirm or deny

i find the Microtech a little coarse, it is great value but lacks finese and i gather from your first post you take great pride in your car and the minor details. The microtech tends to "overlook" the minor details to produce a no frills basic stand alone ECU to a specific price bracket.

depends i can garauntee the emanage will be nicer to live with day to day and produce the same top end power as a standalone computer comparison (bottom post), but if your going to go extreme with your mods then go the microtech, even then i would prefer to use a haltech over a microtech everday of the week.

i like the non dampened (noisey) version, but it is up to you.

I hope you understand this is just general conversation, not me having a dig or anything. all jap clutches come with flywheel as they are one and the same ie the flywhhel is an integral part of the clutch (far superior to the std flywheel type setup) and in ORC's case is usually at least 35% lighter than stock. as for your question 300rwkw single plate and $1000 no (about $1100 for ORC twin) but your original post stated 280ish. anything over 290 rwkw i strongly recomend twin plate as you will get a lighter pedal and better progression..... ie near stock driveabilty. A decent twin will set you back say $1100 or $1500 odd for a carbon setup, i honestley have not used the carbon for extended street use so i cant comment on them but the std setup has provided me year upon year of perfect operation. im not bein obtuse but a single plate clutch to handle 300rwkw in my type of environment would not last 6months regardless of warranty period. Even if it did handle it it the massive clamp pressure required on a single plate would be a pig to drive compared to the std ORC twin... it is simple physics.

30mins on a relative stocky to 1.5hrs on a modded example depending on mods. times are based on comprehensive tune including cruise etc not just the power curve.

GTR diff and R34 box (box ratios are the same), diff ratios are actually a little differrent as we run 3.9 instead instead of 4.11 which is std GTR ratio (which would actually disadvantage us comparison wise), it use to run 4.373 but it was too short with the GTT box. tyre size is 235/45/17

good bye VCT

R32 R33 and 34 are all similar, 33 and 34 are the same apart fom the shocker mounts. R33 are eye R34 are fork (no biggie) R33 and R34 has better geometry bit like s13 vs s15 cradles. the bolt up (floor locating) is about 5mm different from R32 to R33/r34

yes it is part of the clutch

ok the back one (yellow stripe) goes to the rear of the plenum, next to the other two large ones. the first picture shows two lines one is for the factory boost sensor from memory.

On that note GIZZMO electronics were developing a stand alone ECU (to compliment haltech and MOTEC) and compared the following on their dynapac as part of the research: HALTECH POWERFC emanage ultimate All made the same power or within 1rwkw so it is never a case of whether or not the EMU is capable. These results were the first few shreds of evidence that initially sparked my interest in the product. Mt tuning has shifted from 95% PFC to about 50% PFC 40% EMU and 10% various. Ray from GIZZMO is a tuning genius and is responsible for many record cars including Ronnie Lims 501@wkw 9.88 @ 236kph (147mph) integra. So the tuner is not a variable

that would be the installer not the shifter. If set up wrong they operate wrong.... simple as that.

Well every ORC ive had has factory pedal feel or lighter in single plates, outlasted the car offerred huge head room power wise and cost about the same.... 1000 for singles and 1500-1600 for twins... the twin in the supra handles 418rwkw all day long and is a cinch to drive.... i cant ask for anything else? i also dont need to worry about flywheels. i just think some people make a decison as simple as a clutch purchase to difficult. Sure jim berry's clutches are great and the lure of a lifetime warranty makes me feel good but honestley i cant think of one instance where a correctly installed ORC or OSgiken clutch has failed and ive used them for over 10years so....... ORC and OS realistically could offer the same warranty?

exactly.... wind in more boost and they will happily support 380rwkw..... which is my whole point (excellent response yet able to support good top end). The same tune as above with std dumps, -6 degrees and fat mixtures 10.8:1 A/F pulled 328rwkw at 17psi.... (i would expect another 20rwkw easily with 12.0:1 and more timing). i would post the graph but i could not get a clean run without the missfire gremlin, next week i will run it up again.

dyno sheet at 14.2psi and still with issues hmmm i seem to see 210rwkw at 120kmh...... with -6 degrees timing over the whole map. No doubt there is another 10-15rwkw hidden in there once ive found the breaking down issue.

if your in melb i have a GTR one $100

yeah ive bought a few things ove rthe years and never had an issue with service. +1

mate my condolences to your car, dont sell yourself short but. 1500 for the box 2000 for the engine...mate your halfway there... i reckon 7-8k you could pull out of it.

just buy a decent known brand off the shelf ORC, EXEDY, OSGIKEN or ATS and i will gaurantee a better clutch for 99.9% of the applications.

280-odd at the wheels is hardly pissy..... i would have picked a 3037s but the 2835 is no slouch on a 25 providing it is the 0.87 not the 0.68 my 180 made 260+ @ 1.2bar with the tight ass model (HKS 2835 56t with a 0.61)

HAHA you a bit cut? i dont claim to be an expert but your car just seems "flat" by your descriptions especially compared to our results, i cant be held for your cars shortcomings.

^^ i would not be suprised, as i have seen metal cased Z32's destined for the US of A coming out of HK (manufactured in taiwan so usually ok) and these work ok, no doubt there are plastic bodied ones also.

Yeah i drove that car with it at a few drift days and it took about 10mins to get used too... then was wild..... i loved it. it does put a lot of pressure on the synchros so if your box is in good nick then no dramas.... if not expect shift issues. it cant be used with a dog box as the engagement needs to be felt.... the ikeya formula will just try slamm it in... i spoke at lengths with ppg about this as i wanted to fit cats car with the dog engagement set and the shifter.