STATUS

yeah he is kinda correct, especially if you have fitted a head gasket RB30/25 conversion etc.... the spec sheet that comes with the cams gives a certain duration at a certain lift (example 156 degrees duration @ 0.050" lift) you check the lift with the dial indicator and the duration with the degree wheel i have had a few cams (majority older hks) ground a few degrees out and the only way to know where your absolute "0" is to "DIAL" them in. Then adjust from there. The supra we built for Autobarn has the absolute zero at 3 retard on the inlet and 2.5 degrees retard on the exhuast, this is due to head gasket and machining altering cam to crank distances.

it is probally a simple timing step then, as paul said it should be a simple tune issue.

no but it gets a little bit more pronounced on the FC.

100% correct in fact i am actually doing a back to back test atm with cats car. D-Jetro pfc versus the Ultimate mafless. results 2mororo night i hope..

it would be the injector fuel cut tripping between on and off. Bit of a PFC niggle.... if you are real careful you can sit on this ON/OFF point on decell and it will burble and pop away.

added the GTR to GTS-T wiring mods

id say that is more a tuner fault, SR's are far more det prone than rb20s for sure and 90% of sr's failures are ring land and the rest are big end...... due to det. i have only ever lost one SR and it was a dodgy HKS injector that stopped working.... killed number 3. sure they are cheaper but by the time its installed 2500 goes quite a way to making pwr on the sr. if it is NA to start with then yes probaly makes sense. i see SR packages from 1500 regulary you just need to look.

everything is relative, i have never seen a paint and fit that i would accept under $1000..... and sydney examples tend to be the worst... tek screws and shit used to hold it alll on... riv-nuts or nothing in my books.

stick with SR...... we have a S13 with a killer 26 in it and the built SR was still a better track weapon. Putting a RB20 makes zero sense.

RRP is 37.99 My missus is the VIC MOTUL rep

swap the housings.

the brown cable is actually the outer cover plastic cover for the shielding. You are on the right track. The knock sensor connector looks the same a injector connector and is black. It is diffficult to see by eye, you will need a mirror or be artful with your arms. I usually use the knock sensor retaining bolt as the locator point for my dett headphones so it is accessible just a bitch.

these car are taxis (100,000 of the bastards) in hong kong and china and parts are crazy cheap and easy to come by.... look to hong kong for parts. lived there for 12 years.

bolt was either left loose, cam belt overtightened or the car may have had a front ender in the past.

based on my experience with silvias the factory cores have on average a pressure drop of about 2-3psi an aftermarket one has on average less than that and the average differrence in pressure drop is realised as a boost increased.

dude there is a 1000 ways to skin a cat, and 100000 ways to make those kind of horsepower levels and 10000000000 posts on here telling you how to do it and 100000000000000 different budgets. If your such a newb to power building then a thread aint gonna be much good either as there is always going to be conflicting information. Your best bet is to doa s you have done and search out which members have the "better" reputations and ask for thier oppinion. the object of a forum is for everyone to post there oppinions is is then your job to decide which is applicable to you. I can specify a 800hp package that cost 3000 and another for 30,000..... it depends on the application/ budget/ etc

i hate the 80 series diesel too.... damn slug ^^^^ the 100 series a mate has seems to be a bit better than the 80 but it was out of our price range though, youre obviously happy with yours. Maybe next year we will test drive one.... i like the V8 model as it has better appointments and i reckon as a duel fuel would work out ok...... we have already put 95,000 on the GU in 13 months..... total of 262,000km..... due for a trade in already i must admit we were pricks when we bought our 4wd we took the whole setup and test towed each car 6 differrent models in total we actually spend less $$$ on the petrol gas combo than we would with a diesel and it actually tows faster and easier than the 4.2lt landcruiser did when we test drove it.

um i just saw the latest shipment at access another official buddy club distributor and instead of two piece spun forged they are now one piece cast.... so dont know what your on about? definately cast NOT forged. plenty of other good products non the less, im just about to use their cams in a tough evo 6 TME.

late model yeah? ^^^ those are actually very good, beyond my price range though the D1 garage boys used them all last year and could not say a bad thing about them.

the TD surf have an inherently weak engine. a V6 navara would be interesting...... i have not tested one though.

haha arent all buddy club products now replicas? i know the wheels are nothing like they used to be

dont ever think of towing with a 80 series 4.0 landcruiser it was the shittest thing we have ever used. we put about 80k on our tow car each year doing all the drift rounds including WA and the 4.5l GU patrol is about the best thing we have used to date, it is duel fuel and can nearly make adelaide non-stop travelling at between 100-125... I love my V8's (my background) but a VS V8 is a pretty puss thing and i dont believe it would be worth the extra expense and fuel usage over a V6, the falcon 4.0l in my 90' LTD used to tow better than my oldies vs wagon so it is also food for though. A ute unless loaded right can be sketchy to tow in the wet too.

if it is a street car the whiteline ones work best as they have very little effect on NVH.

that is a myth, d-jetro on a gtr is just like d-jetro on anything else.... i fitted/tuned my latest one last night. Access had stock here in melbourne so it was a quick easy fix for my customer who was having AFM issues. the hardest part about D-jetro is the map sensor pick-ups need to be taken from 3 and 4 intake runners which normally requires the plenum to come off..... or risk leaving aluminum swarf in the intake runners after drilling the take-off ports. tuning is simple and usually takes les time to get a satisfactory idle than equivalent AFm PFC's..... especially on big cammed engines. i would expect the extra charge comes from the extra fit time, not the tuning.

I have seen several ORC clutches on test rigs and could not fault them, but i could not comment on OS gear as i have never witnessed one on a bench. i still stand by my other statements.