FineLine

my brakes have rotors. And I have a box trailer which doesnt move unless I tow it. Sorta like a rotor.

ROFL! Eat a dick bitch.

just raggin mate. I have no love for eggbeaters but its no skin off my nose if others like them.

I think you'd fit one between your ears quite comfortably too. No doubt you would also be accustomed to walking down to the wreckers to get a replacement.

Hardy Spicer at Coopers Plains did mine bud. quality stuff from a company that has been doing this stuff forever.

shup shane.

When the Americans see a rotor powered pickup win a tractor pull they'll take notice.

A sheep I am not. I am a bloke and I happen to think rotorys blow goats. Without a doubt the most obnoxious sounding internal combustion engine ever invented, Anything sounding that loud would need to make the same horsepower as a top fueler to impress me. That and the above mentioned weaknesses inherent in the engine since day dot do nothing to endear them to the majority of car enthusiasts. If its a rotor its a temporary motor.

The actual solid conversion only cost about 600 dollars from memory Gary. My cam selection was based on the type of power delivery I was looking for. Pon cams are not big but they are bigger than anything I could get in the 25 hydraulic lifter set up. port work depends on how deep your pockets are. I was fortunate in that the original head I purchased had 80% of the porting and chamber work already done. JHH touched up the inlet side When they fitted the o/s valves springs etc. The head still wasnt where we wanted it as far as the exhaust side went so I gave it to Mik at signature and he weaved his magic on it. He has dossiers as thick as encyclopedias on eons of intensive porting and flowbench work on RB heads, I am not at liberty to give away too much but suffice to say the head flows beautifully. Our cam timing is a little different to what some may consider the norm but the results speak for themselves. I see my first lb of boost at only 1600 rpm and it just hoses hard all the way to 8 kay. Whilst I am pleased with the end power figure it is secondary to the power delivery This engine dishes out. That was my primary goal right from the getgo and it has delivered in spades. Given my time over I could do it in half the time and half the cost. There was so much trial and error involved. The first engine did over 350 power runs on the dyno mainly due to my own stubbornness in refusing to believe some of my ideas wouldnt work. Dan built that engine as well, It was a gem but alas it came to grief when the clutch nuked and ripped it apart. Best tip I can give anybody wanting to do this sort of thing is simply, Do not take one shorcut. Not one. These boosted engines have a way of seeking out the weakest link and destroying it, Usually taking other compenents along for the ride.

The latest Evo weighs over 1800 kg so I cant see it being any lighter than a gtr skyline

They're not that good looking. Couple that to an exhaust note that is second only to a rotor in its abominibal sound and you have both ends of the ugly spectrum covered.

Harden the f**k up.

Why do you find it so amazing. For all intents and purposes the 25 is the same engine as the 26, Head design and flow is the same. Cubic capacity is so close as to be the same. The major difference is the 26 is solid lifter operation and the 25 is hydraulic. Its a simple enough process to convert the 25 head to solid lifters and lose the vct and presto, theres your 26 head. There are any number of 26's out there making these numbers. why such surprise that a 25 can do it as well. As for a spec list. How much time do you have. I have left no tern unstoned in the build. From the ground up, Hi energy gated baffled sump. All the usual mods to the crank inc snout, balance, chamfered gallerys etc. arp big end and main bolts. spool rods, ACL pistons. Jun oil pump. ARc catch can Cylinder head ported to the hilt with squish chamber work, Over size valves, heavy valve springs, solid lifter operation. vct disconnect. Tomei cams. 9.15 lift, 260 degrees duration. Arp head studs, Oil restrictors, oil drain back. Greddy Intake plenum, Tomei fuel rail, Sard 800cc injectors, 85 mil throttle body. Aero fpr, Surgetank with internal and external pumps, large front mount, Oil cooler and relocator. Signature performance himount zorst manifold, Garret 35/40 turbo, shroud ported and window cut. Tial 44 mil wastegate, 3 and 1/2 inch zorst from the turbo to the tail. T/B is port matched to the plenum is port matched to the head is port matched to the exhaust manifold is port matched to the turbo is port matched to the dump and so on down the line. Haltech E11V2 ecu, Split fire coils are about to be swapped out for LS1 units. Npc clutch, Rebuilt and cryo treated 25 gearbox, Hardy spicer custom tail shaft with oversize uni joints and so much more I get a headache thinking about it. At 24 lb of boost the dyno spat out 533.5 hp. I have a dyno graph in front of me but us old farts are not all that puda savvy so i cant post it up. Shane F did post it up in here somewhere so if you're that keen to view it do a search and it should turn up. Failing that drop on by and i'll make you a coffee while you look at the graph. Engine assembly was done by Dan at Elite racing developments, Engineering by chiltons and tuning by Signature performance. The solid lifter conversion was done by JHH engineering along with some of the headwork. There are far wiser heads on these boards than mine but the one thing i have learned about forced induction is Flow. Get it to breath with lots of headwork and get it to flow with good port matching and the horsepower just tumbles out of these engines. In other words, Spend as much on your cylinder head as you have on the rest of the engine. Therein lies the secret to fat power with torque to match. Gl with yours, i hope your journey is far smoother than mine has been.

I havnt had it flowed against anythingh else mate. It works, It hasnt given a moments trouble. I have had it on and off a few times there is no warpage. Its a damn good home grown product that does everything i ask of it.

Yeah you read It wrong Steve (or i wrote it wrong). I went from a 3 mil stainless to the one Mik made for me.

Like i said mate, its free horsepower. You wouldnt know it was missing by just looking at the car, And i have kept it all if i ever want to return it to stock. The car is loud but hey, I freakin love it. i can drive it for hours at a time and never get tired of the sound of an angry RB. It shits me when i get near home so I usually take the long shortcut just so I can hear it some more.

I had a 3 mil stainless job and we couldnt get the required result. Besides that it kept on cracking Gary. Mik from signature performance offered to fab one for me that he guaranteed would flow way better than what was there. Not quite as pretty as a 6 boost etc but certainly not ugly as far as mani's go. And...It works.

Have your system tested for a boost leak. It doesnt take much of a leak to foul plugs and rob power.

I made 397 kw on a 25 with a .82 housing on pump 98. It took a fair bit of friggin around fine tuning everything to get it there but you should be able to do it n/p with a 3 litre bottom end. head work and free flow was where we eventually found what we were looking for. Big cams are not neccessary. we are using gtr poncams in my engine. Port match everything you can lay your hands on, it makes a difference. I am using a 3&1/2 inch exhaust system. I wouldnt reccomend anything smaller. 4 inch would make it easier. We were stuck around the 350 kw mark for a while but in the end a better flowing exhaust manifold and an ecu change saw it make the number on only 24 lb of boost. More there if we want it but for me its plenty in a rwd.

It depends on what you're looking for. the a/c on its own will make bugger all difference but if you combine it with the myriad of other little things that make bugger all difference it becomes a worthwhile collective. My car is a street/track car as well and i have thrown out the a/c, the heater, all stereo equipment, rear wiper assembly, boot furniture, inner guards, rear seats, undertray, rear parcel shelf, rear seat belt asemblys, and so much more i cant think of atm. Next on the hit list is the sound deadening material and from there I will start replacing stock parts with c/f. first on the hit list is the boot and the hinge/strut assembly. Weight removal is as good as a horsepower upgrade with the added benefit of being easier on suspension and braking etc. In the end it all comes down to how serious you are.

Dan at Elite racing developments is your man. So many on here can vouch for his clutch magic. have a yarn with him and see what you think.

Typo. I meant 345 mil ride height and the rear toe is .5 as in half a mil. I would kill for oversteer. Very little i do afffects the understeer that has always been so prevelant in my car. I can power oversteer my way through it but that is not the desired method. As a last resort I am going to set the swaybars to absolute extreme opposite ends ends of the spectrum to see what effect it has.

take the blue pills Paul. Same result without the freeze burn on yo ass.

These are my current settings for qld raceway. ride height is 145 mil wheel centre to guard all round front... 8 degrees castor. 1.4 mil toe out, 4 degrees camber rear... .5 mil toe in, 1.5 degree camber Set your ride height before you adjust anything. adjusting ride height after you,ve made adjustments will alter some of them. From my limited experience I can say that nothing is set in stone so keep reading the feedback your arse dyno and the tyres give you and adjust accordingly. Little bits at a time.

Jebuz you sure copped a rheaming there mate. My workshop just fitted new bilsteins to my 33 and it took him all of about 2 hours from go to whoa. At 85 dollars an hour that sure beats what those pricks took you for. The car settled about 5/10 mil so I reset it myself. Took about an hour with a pair of spring compressors. a pair of circlip pliers and a jack. On face value what you have been charged for the service provided is ludicrous.