R31Heaven

I should also put in there, Second Hand. thanks for the info Donno.

I will require a RB25 turbo within the next two weeks, so have my feelers out now to find one, anyone with info where I could find one in good condition with all its oil lines etc would be apreciated.

Dude I am in Bendigo and I can tell you there is no one with the know how in the country, A few that think they do you will have to go to Melbourne to find someone half descent

Whats wrong with 200b's I have one sitting in my yard now with the same fate. turning into a Kana car. nice orange one

Reset your ECU after you change your O2 sensor as it will be all up the creek, and you will probably see the other small problems go away.

Would be a bitch getting it out of your intercooler

The whole unit is the IAA unit it has on it, the AAC Valve (this controls general load) the bronze coloured round unit with two pins and also the FICD unit right on the back of it, (This controls the load of the Air conditioner)

This must piss businesses off as it will drive their customers away if they know they are going to get a once over by Police. The bussineses should jack up and put in a complaint to the Police ombudsmun. If they dont, ring them up and drop a subtle hint that you and other friend & relitives will not be patronising them after this has happend.

With the air conditioner the idle control for that is controlled by the FICD (Fast idle compensating device ) which is right at the back of the plenum, it has a single spade plug and is a hexaganal shape.

When should the ECU come out of open loop in cold start mode or what determins it too? is it a set time or does a sensor have a role in it?

What you describe as the symptoms are excatly what mine has to the tee, With the checking I have done every thing on your list and cant find a thing wrong the sensors all tested fine. just to add to things, the other day when I was hunting around under the bonnet I was moving the main injector loom and the car started to hick up slightly and when I took it for a drive and planted the foot it started to burble and fart and just run bad. I stopped lifted the bonnet and moved the loom and it started to run fine again and since I have done this the cold start is slightly better. I have just had all the injector plugs replaced a couple of weeks ago, so there not the problem it is higher up in the loom. I am more into the ECU comming out of open loop to early, just need to find out why

Nice Photos. but what time did he do ?????

Congrats Col, now just have to work out mine

Oh one other thing to check is that because of the presure the new clutch puts on your lines the and master and slave cylinder you may be getting leak by and then your clutch is not engaging/disengaging properly, I just cant see the actual clutch giving your problem, I am just about to have my cylinders sleeved with a stainles steels sleeve and new plungers because of this same sort of problem.

Shouldnt a new clutch not engage until it is nealy out? doesnt it mean the clutch is stuffed if it is engaging an inch off the floor?

I would have thought if your grinding through gears your Synchros are stuffed and the Heavy duty clutch is just enhancing this problem,

Ok probably not explaining to well. OK hop in car start it, runs fine let oil pump up, drive off still fine a minute into driving car retards (like putting you foot slighly on the break) coughs splutters a little start to run fine in this retarded state this all happens while cruising, no power here just soft gentle 2500rpm cruising. I have had an RB30 it never ever done this, ran beautiful/same cold and hot. the magic of EFI. I wont go into it here all I am asking if someone could talk to someone in Japan who may have come across this or have the knowlege on these engines.

Ok its not a Virus but it is plauging a lot of owners here in Aus and yes I know it should be in the Maintanace post but so far no one has been able to come to any conclusion why its happening and it has been happening for a couple of years. Any way here we go. There have been numerous posts of people having the type of cold start problem where there car starts fine in cold start mode then all of a sudden retards the motor until it reaches a set temprature and then is fine, they all state that they have changed all there main sensors ie/: ecu temp, o2, also checked and swapped AFM. so my plea is that someone in Japan knows a Mechanic that can say yep know that problem, it is --------- any way any help would be a god send .

I have found when you up boost and put a 3" inch system, the car tends to run rich due to the better air flow.

This is how mine goes. Hit the ingnition in the moring fires up and runs great, so gather the cold start works fine after a minute or so of as nothing is wrong, it must go out off cold start mode, as soon as it does the car coughs and splutters at this stage for a minutes or so then seems to be running ok with only a slight hesitation every now and then, but when you drive off and try and cruise, it drops into this state until the temp gauge just gets over the first mark, sorry dont have temp gauge so cant tell you the temp. How many K's on your cars and what models. I am wondering, these things get hot around wiring on top of the engine and after years if this could have affect on it causing it to degrade, highering or lowering resistance to a sensor. theory #2. surley some one else has nutted this out as it seems to be a plauge with these cars, could be worth trying to chase some one up in Japan in the know.

I am interested in this, as if your got charged and you didnt wear it. If it went to court, dont you have to have facts before you can be charged with something, not personal opinions. It would be interesting if you stood up with sheets and facts to prove your car was legal and all they had was an opinion, as personal opinions can change from one person to another. your should not be able to be charged without physical images or readings or facts. When you get caught speeding by a speed gun, cant you ask to see the actual speed on a camera as a right? if so when you get cannaried for exhuast noise you should have the same right to see proof. Ok had my rant. :headspin:

Edited

As the title says, are all the RB 20,25,26,30 ECU coolant temp sensors the same? Would putting another type into your car cause problems?

Ok making my own theory here, have been reading some stuff on injector duration from toyota and it talks about cold start duration and how it keep injectors open for an extended time until the motor reaches an expected temp of between 50 cel & 80cel and then goes back to normal cycle. My theory is that for some reason during this cold start the injectors are leaning out or not extending the open duration and causing the motor the run lean and then cause the motor to retard, until it reaches its set normal running temp. I need someone with a Mechanical background here to confirm that this can happen and how and then I may be way off

Ok my GTS-X does this as well. when I first start it, it runs fine for a minute then will jump into to retarded state as discribe above and when the temp reaches the same point on the temp gauge every time it will take off as nothing is wrong. I am glad you have actualy got gauges or instruments that show you what it is doing, as I have been guesing it has been retarding itself. It is just trying to work out what is causing it to do it. I dont believe is is the CAS I have changed mine and no diff and most CAS problems surface when the engine is warm/hot. this is a cold start problem. Will a crook injector cause the timing to retard? But the temp thing get me. I have replaced all my sensors as well.