PM-R33

Soft spring rates, pineapples bushes set to maximum squat, zero negative camber or 1 degree postive camber if the car squats a lot (as it squats it will gain negative camber which in turn will return it to around zero), good tyres, not to low. With a setup like this (probably similar to what Paul had) is your best way for a good time. The problem is most of us know this, but don't actually do it and have low cars with aftermarket coilovers and average tyres

Bahahahahaha!

Exactly, boost is a measure of restriction. It means the turbo(s) are pushing that much air, that the engine can't keep up taking it all in so it builds up and increases in pressure. (Think of blowing up a balloon). It is all about volume of airflow! Turbo(s) technically do not create "boost", they create heaps of airflow that as a result of being in an engine environment ends up being pressurised which is what we call "boost". Hence if you pop an intercooler pipe, no restriction, no boost in the intercooler pipes (theres a lot more that comes into play here but in general that's an easy way to think about it).

One of my best mates girlfriend is exactly like that, it's like talking to a brick wall.

That doesn't make sense.

Yeah man. Have a look at my gallery if you want to see the picture better.

Search, it has been covered a million times http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...rs+on+rb25+head

Cheating 4WD

Here's one of the threads about it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...turbo+boost+add Any logical person that knows a bit about physics realises that each pressure can not combine the way people are thinking.

The thing is if the car is stationary, idleing and warmed up, unplugging the plugs doesn't necessarily change anything. The AAC can be unplugged without doing anything since there is no extra load on the engine from power steering etc that requires the AAC to open up. The IAC can also be unplugged if the engine is at operating conditions without doing anything since once again there is no need for it to open up. I don't remember if the stock ECU detects them some how being unplugged and changes anything though. Easy way to find out get some one with a stock ECU to unplug them but I think the same theory will apply.

Yeah you could give it a clean out. But usually when something goes wrong after a big job like a timing belt install, the problem usually lies with something to do with the install. The odds of the IAC starting to act up at the same time a timing belt was done is highly unlikely.

I would be more looking at whether the CAS was installed back in the right position after the belt swap or ensure that the timing belt was installed correctly and hasn't skipped a tooth. How is the car driving other than the idle problem?

Yeah I find that to be the case. With a complete stand still I struggle to get it off the line quickly just because it breaks out like a bitch. Anything from a slow roll on and it's great. The key definetely is in trying to get the suspension and tyre setup in a sweet spot to get the power down as early as possible. Any slight wheel spin will kill the 0-100.

Once my Toyo's are a bit worn im going to try some KU36's and with some lower tyre pressure im hoping they will hold allright.

Legaly your mechanic is correct. Skyline headlights don't do this and most people couldn't give two shits so just find a different mechanic.

Looks like a T4. If the inside length is about 3" it's a T4. A T3 is about 2.5" on the inside length.

Was that on stock shocks Paul?

Per Annum?!?! Fark!!

Yeah the storyline is a bit gay. I'm finally up to the final boss, hopefully finish it off tonight.

Here's my old thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dy...ns-t270208.html As you can see no drops in power anywhere with the headwork. Obviously you have to consider I did a bit more than just the Poncams though.

If you can get a 250-300rwkw GTST/GTT to hold traction well off the line (good street tyres/semi slicks) a mid 4 second time should be fairly easy. Traction of the line is the hardest thing though, mine lights up 255 Toyos with ease at 3500rpm in first which becomes a problem. Would love to get it to hold first though, would be fantastic off the line.

That could have been my dyno graph. I did a bit of headwork with the cams and got great gains throughout the low-midrange.

Same reason people upgrade camshafts in any vehicle, more duration and more lift over standard camshafts. Procams are once again more lift and more duration over Poncams.

Pure and utter pornography right there.

Well i'll be damned! Pretty cool.