PM-R33

Yes it will. If you are handy with a spanner, do it yourself. The turbo swap is a direct fit and very easy to do. Even going fairly slowly and following some of the guides on here it wouldn't take more than a day. On average i would say a mechanic might charge you anywhere from 3-5 hours labour.

You still need those hoses?

That's for the aircon.

Hahaha the lack of grip is really killing the times. What gear you using the gas in, straight off the line in first?

Hahahaha yeah i've always thought a similar thing. Someone thinks he just won a million dollars, tells his boss to get f**ked and then finds out it's been divided for 10 ppl and he is only getting a couple of hundred thousand. God you would be pissed!

Nah don't do a red lip. Like you said, without seeing the engine bay and boot it won't make sense at all.

Kind of like people that put little combs in their afro lol.

God damn it i missed this I'll grab one in the next batch please.

The sensors should all be the same, cause its how the HICAS and ABS operates aswell, using those senors. So im sure the GTR and the GTST would all be the same. Only thing different for yours might be the location of the sensors on the front since you have a diff up there.

Nope HICAS does not effect the operation at all. Honestly i have never looked for the wheel speed sensors so am not sure.

I'll send it first thing in the morning, you should have it Monday. Thanks

Enjoy http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?Prod...33R%2DTSDF%2DCF Ask them to send you my instructions on making it all fit, mine was the test mule. Not the easiest thing, but if you are handy with tools it aint too bad. Look into my gallery if you want to see a couple of pics. If you want to see any more let me know.

Very nice

Ahh yep forgot about IX being on PS1, i loved IX. The little black mage Vivi was awesome. God damn it, this is really making me want to play FF hahaha.

Hahaha

First three were on Nintendo and the fourth and fifth was on SNES i believe then they moved onto PS1 with six, seven and eight then to PS2. The newest one will be the first to go on PS3.

PM sent with photos and details I think i might chuck FFVIII on ebay, they seem to be getting decent money for them You have to post up photos once you have them all, so wish i had them all as a collectors thing.

$20 plus $5 freight? I can send you some pics if you want, it looks brand new.

Definetely suits the silver the best IMO.

Sweet man, that would be good! I've always wanted to do it, my mate had a 2J with a big high mount sitting in his old shop on the showroom floor and it looked awesome just sitting there on display.

I miss this thread *tear* One of the best threads from an engineering point of view (regardless what side of the fence you are on) on these forums. Definetely should be a sticky somewhere, fantastic amount of information and knowledge in here.

Not to mention the tail you could get telling a girl to go into your ferrari boat......come on, you were all thinking it. EDIT: ^God damn!!

I like to know it due to conversation with people that aren't that into cars. Since most manufacturer's qoute engine HP figures and all modified car owners qoute @ wheel figures it makes discussions with people that aren't into cars difficult. Classic case, talk to some one that bought a brand new HSV "My HSV makes 307kw, what does yours make" "My car makes 280kw@wheels" "....Haha my stock HSV has more power". Therefore if you are talking to some one, say your friends parents or something, i always use engine HP figures cause by the time i start explaining drive train losses they will tune out and the discussion will be over.

I never said it was linear. You know what the car losses through the drivetrain from factory. Example, the old GTS HSV Monaro's. Rated at 300kw, make about 220-240kw@wheels. Standard GTST, rated at 180 odd kw, make anywhere from 120-140kw@wheels. So if the same GTST makes another 110kw@wheels to 250kw@wheels, we re-add that 60-40kw loss, so it pumps it up to 290-310kw@engine. However the engine is now producing more power, therefore everything is slightly increased in loss. This is the figure that can not be given by a percentage, or a fixed linear figure. It varies. I'm sure there would be a close equation you could do to work it out more accuretly. The more power you make, the higher the additional loss through friction, fluids, heat etc. So in a bit of a maths equation. kw@motor = kw@wheels + original factory loss (say 50kw to be a nice number) + 'unknown variable' (additional loss as power increases) = 250kw@wheels + 50kw original loss + 'x' = 300kw@motor + 'x' This 'x' value is one that you have to guess logically. It aint going to be 100kw, it aint going to be .5kw. A good educated guess in this case could be 5kw. It will obviously slightly increase with the more power you are making. at 1000kw@motor it might be 50kw. That is about as accurate as you can get with guessing, and for most people i think it is good enough to have that minium value and a little bit extra. I'd rather under qoute something than over qoute.

I do it this way. We all roughly know what a standard RB25DET is rated at the engine and we all roughly know what they make at the wheels standard. There's about a 60-80HP loss give or take depending on the condition of things. So depending on the extra power (say an increase of 200HP at the wheels), i re-ad the 60-80HP loss (since you aren't going to magically lose less power through the drivetrain as power increases unless you have done something out of the ordinary). This will give you roughly your minimum amount of power at the engine. Then i take into account that as power increases, losses through heat, noise, friction ect. increase. Depending on the added power i say it might lose an extra 10HP or something like that. It is rough, but atleast you know roughly what it would be.