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PM-R33

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Everything posted by PM-R33

  1. I still want to see videos of this beast
  2. I'm close.
  3. Is that centre part of the seat actually brown or is that just the lighting in the pic?
  4. Hahahahah Hamish
  5. If some one goes to the effort of doing that, taking heaps of pics, posting it up and then asking people what they think than yes i assume the guy is being serious. I have seen a lot dumber shit on these forums done by people that isn't a joke.
  6. God i hope you don't believe that. That 2mm thick bit of plastic with next to zero thermal insulation that is just sitting around the pod wont do a single thing. If it drops air intake temperatures by a couple of degrees i would be impressed. Air moves believe it or not and will simply raise the temperature of that bit of plastic until it is the same temperature as the under bonnet temps. However regardless of that, the bit of plastic isn't completely blocking the engine bay heat to the pod, therefore air will simply move around it and the pod will still suck in hot air once again making that shield do nothing. No disrespect to the OP, people giving things a go to save some money is fantastic, but to think that is actually doing anything is just silly.
  7. My god..... Please take that off the car.
  8. If i drive like a nanna short shifting every gear at 2000rpm i get 400km to a tank. If i drive with a bit of aggression i get 200km to a tank. All comes down to how you drive and what mods/tune the car has.
  9. Hmm like i said seem's like a lot of mucking around and a bit of money involved in fabricating it all and buying the electronic valve. Personally i would just do what my mate did, not as convenient cause you can't swap it from one system to the other while driving, but only takes a few minutes to swap the section of pipe in the garage. I have a universal varex muffler underneath my car with the electronic valve control to make it quite if need be, but i'm going to get a straight 3" pipe to replace it if i want to. The muffler is quite bulky and heavy as hell and im sure it would still have a restriction on it even when fully open.
  10. *drools* Thats awesome.
  11. Yeah my Veyron feels a bit quicker than my push bike, think i might change the gearing or something on the bike.
  12. You will get a bit more induction noise and it won't suck shut like the factory one can in some situations. But no it wont give you any more power.
  13. +1 for wanting to know what happened with this.
  14. ....oh ok. Sounds like a lot of f**king around for no point really. My mate had something similar but a lot more practical. A normal exhaust with a screamer plumbed in and a section before the cat that unbolted and turned the screamer into atmospheric. Took 10 mins to swap the little Y section. Was done purely for being able to have the sound for track work/fun on the street but probably made a little bit of a performance increase due to not having to run all the gases through the exhaust. If anything maybe the OP should do something like this.
  15. I just use the thermal flex stuff, works fine and i didn't think it was that dear if you source it out. I want to replace all mine with Greddy or HKS silicone Just can't make myself blow so much money on something so pointless just cause it has a brand on it. Then again off of Nengun the Greddy silicone delivered isn't that much more than off the shelf price in stores for Turbosmart etc.
  16. Are you talking about a screamer pipe on a gate or what are you trying to do? What turbo setup is currently on the car?
  17. What brough this up man? You still thinking of selling it?
  18. Don't get the plugs with the "S" on the end of the part number unless they only have them in stock, means they are standard and don't have the V-groove and they cost the same.
  19. Yeah don't do it straight to the battery, use a 12V igniton source as i said. You have to run one wire inside the car so you may aswell just run them both into the car. Then find a 12V ignition wire on the ECU and splice it into that.
  20. Yeah i ran the GT-RS on 14-16psi on the stock ECU, ran rich as f**k and made hardly any more power
  21. Well considering you are running 8psi on the stock ECU the smart choice would be to get an aftermarket ECU and tune it to 10-12psi. EDIT: Damn it you beat me to it ^
  22. In essence yes, however with it constantly off, you will get shit low down power on the stock cams. With it constantly on, you will get shit top end power. So really a switch controlled by you wont work properly.
  23. Sorry Harry i think you missunderstood me. The earth will go to the ECU pin out #113 (Get yourself a pin out diagram and double check this). The power im not sure where it goes exactly from factory, most likely onto another pin on the ECU but i'm not sure which one off the top of my head. You could probably just hook it up onto any 12V ignition source. Yes it will be fine to wire it this way as the Power FC uses the VCT also. Like i said the earth is what switches the VCT on and off, so this goes to the ECU pin out #113 and the power source should just be a 12V ignition source. Hopefully some one else can verify this.
  24. The solenoid will have two prongs on it, one for the positive and one for the negative. The loom normally has a connector going to the solenoid which clips in, just solder the wires directly onto the solenoid prongs. Or track down a connector plug and just re-attach it to some wires. I'm sure people that have got rid of their VCT for some big cams would have a connector plug lying around.
  25. You don't want it constantly on because you will have shit top end power. You need to switch it off up top so you get your top end power. You can get it working easily since you have an RB25 ECU. Just run additonal wires from the VCT solenoid to the ECU. Get a pinout diagram and hoop up the earth and power. From memory the power is a constant and the ECU switches the earth via rpm. The pinout is #113 on the ECU for the ground.
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