PM-R33

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Go...ils-t22458.html Start reading buddy. Read some of the last pages if you want. Most people will recommend you Motul, Redline, Royal Purple, Fuchs etc. Just Jap, Unique Autosports and some others sell airboxes for pods, have a look in the for sale section or make your own. However a well setup stock airbox still works well, depends what your one is like.

Nope.

Dude you have to list all details of what you are selling, where you are located, prices and a phone number or the mods will lock this thread. Did you even read the for sale rules?

If the cover you are reffering to is the circular metal cover connected with 4 little bolts than yes there is a large bolt underneath that which bolts the cam gear into the cam. Make sure that when you "crack" that bolt the timing belt is still connected, if not and you try cracking it with the timing belt not connected it will just spin the cam and bend valves. The bolt is a pain in the ass to remove because it is on there very tight. Just get a good breaker bar on it.

Umm what the hell has that got to do with anything? "More respect from the V8 crowd" What on earth are you dribbiling about?

The only LED ones that looked great were the ones on the R34 Z Tune IMO.

Hmm they look allright in that pic you just posted. The thing i hate about them is what they look like during the day when turned off. Not a fan really.

Fair enough, i thought the size of a GT35 would foul on something low mounted. Havn't ever looked in to low mounting a GT35, all that i have seen have been high mounted.

Like i said before, if a regulator fails on you, then by all means replace it with an aftermarket one. I would probably do the same thing. There is however no need to swap a perfectly working FPR to a $150-$300 aftermarket adjustable fuel regulator since there is zero benefit and that money could easily be spent on something more worth while.

Looks very nice man. Let us know how the tune goes.

Hmm i didn't think you could fit a GT35 low mounted. Post up pics so we can see what size turbo it is.

Here's a Lambo that i have seen done. Looks good, definetely different.

I would think these blocks would mainly be an advantage for circuit work to get weight from the front. Hence i would like to know the differences in weight of these compared to a normal RB block. Paul you would know, whats an RB block weigh?

Very interesting! The weight savings would be fairly substaintial i would believe. 20-30kg possibly? What's a full RB with all accessories weigh, 250kg?

No offence to you guys and your work, but that amp mounted on the inside of the boot looks horendous with all the wires hanging out of it.

Only one person mentioned detonation.

The thing is the stock FPR is a very simple piece of mechanics, there is very little "wear and tear" on it and not much that can fail. Hence the size of the thing, there isn't much to it.

Why though? Lets take it to basics and discuss what an aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator is, does and what purpose it serves. An aftermarket fuel regulator allows you to bump up the fuel pressure when your injectors are maxing out to squeeze out that little bit of extra power out of them. Most people do this to make the stock injectors go that little bit furthur. They are old injectors and do not like to be squeezed passed their safe efficiency. You are just asking for trouble if one suddenly decides to fail and lean out a cylinder. When going aftermarket injectors, you pick the injectors size to the power you are aiming for, therefore why go an aftermarket regulator. You will just be running them on normal fuel pressure, therefore the aftermarket regulator is doing nothing as far as adjustability is concerned. The only real application for one is on large power levels when you allready have large injectors and you need to run them at slightly higher fuel pressure to cope due to the stock one not being up to the task. The stock one can easily do 350+rwkw so there isn't a huge group of people doing this, especially the OP. Main reason why people buy them is if the stock one fails, or if their aftermarket fuel rail can not use a stock fuel pressure regulator, then yes why not buy one they are cheap in most brands. But most of these people are just buying one because they need a fuel pressure regulator, not because they wont to change the stock one to something that is adjustable. In the OP's situation, an aftermarket reg would be of no benefit and money that could be spent elsewhere.

You don't need a reg. Why change the reg, the factory one is more than fine for nearly any job. Yes the factory one is 15 years old, but they rarely fail and are hassell free. Most aftermarket regs are more hassell than they are worth when in the wrong hands. Like i said early, the best and easiest choice is a Nismo/Tomei in tank. They are a direct replacement, piece of piss to install and don't have any problems. Their only downside is the cost. The Bosch's are fantastic pumps, they will flow more than the Nismo/Tomei, however they have to be installed correctly, which a lot of people f**k up and then have issues with. We just ripped out an 040 out of my mates S15 and replaced it with a Tomei one becuse the Bosch one wasn't done properly.

Well that turbo will make a hell of a lot more power than the standard RB25 bottom end could ever handle and the rear housing will make it laggy as hell. So yes it would run after a tune, but personally thats a bad turbo choice for what you want. So i would rip it off and sell it, or atleast get the .86 housing for it.

Your imagining things or there is something totally unrelated to the speed limiter cut wire going on. Or your freinds have cut the "speed signal" wire and not the "speed limiter" wire. The speed limiter wire will not effect the way the car drives what so ever.

Fark, so it was running a GT35 with probably a 1.06 exhaust housing on a stock ecu, stock injectors and stock AFM?!?!

Not entirely true. The rear mufflers/cannons might not sound the best, but i use one of their universal ones underneath the car to keep the car quite when needed (99% of the time its opened) and you would never pick something wasn't right on the car when it is opened. When it is shut its just quite as all hell. Im getting a 3" straight pipe to bolt on and off to replace the varex when needed due to the Varex weighing half a million kg's and sitting quite low.

Two main options. Modify a Bosch 040 to fit or buy a Nismo/Tomei direct replacement. One costs more than the other, the other is a bit more difficult to fit.

So after all this does any one know what actually causes the oil light to stay on (and oil pressure to stay low) for that short time after starting?