PM-R33

Well it is open fot the next month, so get some money together by then

Ok I will find out about the relocater. Also found out about the sandwich plate. Because the sandwich plate has the built in thermosat there is no room for extra sensor locations. Makes sense as the only ones I have seen with the ports for sensors are non thermostatic. Depends if this one goes ahead I suppose. So far the interest is a lot less than I was epecting.

Just use something along these lines and you will be fine:

Fair enough.

Oh right. Lol didn't even notice where this was posted. Just assumed

Inside it will be over 500 degrees under full throttle. Outside, probably not. Maybe if it was stainless steel. Mild steel should isolate it better.

Basically what he is getting to is get a normal paper element type filter, not a foam filter.

This is why I visit the NA section.

Are the rotors on the wrong sides? I thought the curves are ment to go with the rotation?

Honestly don't remember the exact price, was a while back. Got them from overseas. Like under $300 from memory.

They are around 18 hours behind us. So it is still Monday morning there Hoping they will email me overnight.

I'll find that out as I would like to know that aswell. In my DIY I will also try and remove the factory oil warmer/cooler (It's connected between the block and the sandwich plate) and replace it with a RB20 item to neaten everything up down there as it is an absolute mess. Thread about it here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/294549-any-way-to-remove-factory-oil-cooler-from-rb25det/page__hl__factory+oil+cooler

I just put brand new Nissan ones in. Pretty cheap.

Well it shouldn't have because they should have been sent from Japan prior to the earthquake. Fingers crossed they rock up this week.

Basically for a street car an oil cooler without a thermostat is a step backwards if anything. You want a car to come up to operating temperature as quickly as possible as most of your engine wear happens when a car is cold. This is common knowledge for most people, hence why you don't flog a car when it is cold. This is why you have a thermostat for your coolant. Your coolant stays in the engine so it can warm up and then once it gets to operating temperature your thermostat opens up and allows the coolant to get cooled through your radiator. An oil cooler without a thermostat is getting cooled from the moment you start the car. Why do you want your engine oil getting cooled when it is cold? This would mean your oil would take a lot longer to reach operating temperature. With a thermostat your oil doesn't go to the oil cooler until it needs to. There is a lot more to it so have a Google search on how they work to get a better understanding of it. Kit doesn't come with a relocater, but you can always buy your own relocater kit and add it to it.

None. Plenty of air around the headlight and from the factory hole underneath the filter.

Ok that's fair enough. Just thought I would let you know in case you were not sure regarding price for such a thing. All good.

To be fair, the price is extremely high for just front calipers that are also missing parts without postage. Just being honest.

I just have a pod filter inside of a custom aluminium box that I made with insulation padding on the inside of it. On a forced induction car it aint a HUGE deal having no cold air intake if you have a decent front mount. Obviously it aint going to hurt though.

Haha fair enough. You could probably sell the HKS one for the same price as this one new lol.

Yep, hence the no buldges. They look a lot cleaner.

I just ran their recommendation.

In the Italian Job Clarkson said that Ferrari themselves said not to drive the car in the wet because it was that much of a handful lol.

Only thing I can think of is this, however it is kind of hard to explain. If you have ever had your dash cluster out and played around with the needle on the tacho, there is a point of resistance where the needle stops. This is at zero RPM. You can freely move the needle by hand but when you let it go, it will automatically fall back to zero. Maybe spring loaded or something. If you wind it to far forward there is another point of resistance. If you go passed this point of resistance it ends up changing the initial point of resistance. Only reason I know this is because I have fitted white faced dials which means you have to take the needles off and put them back on again. Could it possibly be that this spring loaded function is now broken and therefore the needle just falls to the bottom due to gravity and now doesn't want to move? Test the tacho by changing the tacho sweep on the Vipec to different points: 2000, 4000, 6000 and see if it still sweeps to those points. Quite strange never the less.

What's wrong with the HKS one?