wlspn

OK, so silly example but all I can think of right now (it's been a hard day ) It's summer, 40-something degrees, you're all sweaty & hot... In this scenario would you rather sprint past a fan or SLOWLY walk past it? Obviously the more time spent in the airflow (by walking slowly) the cooler you will get... This is ignoring said turbulence, etc though. Not being a smartarse, just trying to understand some peoples theories better. Also the N1 pump (anti-cavitation plate aside) with 6 blades... Would it flow coolant faster or slower than a stock item? & in your opinion why?

Also just to mention, on my RB25, I use cheap RB30 water pumps. Have come across both 6 & 8 blade... Would seem the only difference between the cheap ($60 odd) pump & N1 is the anti-cavitation disc (& materials used, etc)

The other thing to consider is, if the coolant is pumped TOO quickly, it will pass through the radiator before it has had a chance to be thoroughly cooled... Could be the N1 pump is 6-bladed, not 8 to stop the water rushing through the radiator too fast at high RPM/track conditions

Sorry, think its closer to $900NZD. Was referring to $AUD at the time I converted the price (3-4 months ago)...

Am looking at going this setup myself, although on R33 RB25, not Neo. Rather than a Blitz style adaptor I am leaning more toward welding a plate to the standard RB25 runners which the GTR throttle-bodies can then be bolted to. This way original injectors, idle control, etc can all be kept. Also the injectors are kept exactly where they were designed to be, etc. RIPS NZ can do the whole job for somewhere around $600 or look at designing/doing it yourself (I am)

Lock-nuts included?

Also keen on model number & whether you would post...

So would you's be looking at running rear rotors made for a caliper handbrake or simply removing the drum brake components?

ttt

Road or track only use?

Haha. Was waiting for that... Expected a lot more actually! It's a possibility but not likely at this stage.

I removed my spoiler as in my opinion they look better without one. Each to their own but... GTS came with no spoiler or some people fill the holes

OK, so my R32 GTS(25)T has seen better days... Has some rust, etc & I am looking at giving it a long term overhaul. Unfortunately it is currently my only car (maybe not for long) so can't be off road for large amounts of time. I can pick up a cheap GTR with mechanical problems (engine, turbos, etc) very cheap & want to use the shell as a donor for all my running gear. So basically would strip it down, remove all AWD gear & fit my stuff in. Advantages (in my opinion) are: Wide-body (ish) shell (great for extra track, looks better, etc) Clutch booster (I run a HEAVY clutch & anything that will help is great) Plastic fuel tank (won't rust, larger & I assume lighter?) Plenty of standard GTR bits included with shell (seats, etc) Can spend time prepping body, etc while still driving my car Can pick this up for what a BARE GTST shell would cost... I know GTR rear-end can be used but front end I'm a bit unsure of... I know I would need to remove GTR front sub-frame & fit GTST subframe but will that just bolt straight in? What problems am I likely to face? (apart from abuse from GTR owners ) Has anyone ever heard of or seen anything like this before? Or anyone know both chassis well enough that they can give me some definite answers? Would be much appreciated. Cheers

If you haven't tried FC give it a crack. Mine is hot on anything but... & wow. Thats definitely something different!

Neesan, how is yours on FC? & are you guys talking only A/C or fan in general?

The fact that you don't have to carry a spare tyre. But if you do it has to be in roadworthy condition...

Your inbox must be full as I tried to PM you but couldn't... Regarding the inlet manifold (2), what do you mean by nikle coated?

GDZ-14R: According to the mat company the mats have been paid for & shipped so this guy doesn't really have your money anymore, just a bunch of mats. Think you will get them but he is just f@#ing around, not really caring anymore... If he wanted to keep your money surely he wouldn't have actually ordered & paid for the mats... & Madaz, as you probably noticed by the thread title, this is the 3rd time this guy has done GBs for these mats & there have never been problems like this. I know because I researched, planning to join this but held off when I didn't recieve replies from PMs. & finally, both of you, I completely understand where you're coming from but please don't try & scare other members off GBs when there are plenty of people using them for the right reason... After all, how can anyone become "reputable" if they never get a chance in the first place?

I know in Vic you can get a RACV (or similar) vehicle inspection done. Would be something similar in Queensland. If you're worried do that. For a $75000 car I would be if I was unsure what to look/listen for...

No kidding? Learn something every day... II work on european cars every day, a lot of them have HIDs & I know some don't have headlight washers. Obviously illegal but never picked up on...

As for the defect. if you can get someone who isn't a total idiot & realises these are factory items to write you a RWC you should be fine...

Shouldn't be illegal as they are factory (on GTRs at least... Were they a option on GTTs from Nissan?) BMWs, mercs, etc have HIDs standard & they are legal.

You can get steel side mounts instead of alloy. Think they're around $100 cheaper... Only thing is they weigh a whole 1kg more which, unless you're involved in highly competitive motorsport, is sweet FA

Does this also happen with your fan? Mine blows warm air even with the unit entirely off! Hard to explain but there is a flap, controlled by an actuator (motor), which when open allows air through the heater core (warming it up) & when shut diverts the air straight out the vents bypassing the heater core. This is how you get hot or cold air... Think my (& your) actuator is stuffed. In my case I have to have fan on with temp set to FC (by holding down cold when at 18deg) to have anything but warm air. Bit of a pain... Haven't looked into it much yet but worst case would be a second-hand unit from a wreckers or the original could possibly even be fixed. Let me know what you end up doing.

Not sure what, if anything, needs to be done electrically but would be keeping the neo head if you can. Solid lifters, etc... Superior head. Could be a little bit more mucking around than an R33 RB25 swap but if you can, do it