wlspn

OK, first of all, if you have fitted a standard R33 GTST diff, although it's LSD, it is viscous, not mechanical LSD. This means it uses a viscous (fluid) coupling to limit slip, rather than clutch-packs, etc like a mechanical LSD does. With a viscous LSD I would not use specific LSD oil as that is meant for mech LSDs with clutch-packs, etc. Would just use a general 80w90 gear oil. You are right in assuming that with a standard diff the wheels should be free to move at different speeds at low load, low torque. Can you better describe the noise or feeling it's making? The more info, the easier to diagnose...

Is it only rumbling or sort of rattly as well? If the noise is just rumbling & only there when coasting (backing off & rolling) there's a good chance it could be the large pinion bearing in the diff. It shouldn't cause too many problems besides maybe metal going through the other bearings & damaging them. But hey, if you were going to get a diff rebuild you would replace all bearings anyway so not a major issue. Hunt around for some prices. Call in to diff/trans specialists & someone will probably be happy to take it for a test-drive, give you their first-hand opinion & a rough starting price. Depending what needs to be done when it's opened up I would expect it to cost $400+ or around there somewhere... Probably don't really need to rush. Have had cars come in where you can hardly hear the radio over the diff noise & sometimes still only need just bearings & a set-up.

Generally speaking, period noise (noise only heard at a certain speed, etc) is caused by crown wheel & pinion wear. It can be quite easily missed when building the diff as it is not always noticeable (unlike pitting, etc) It can be very slight wear, not much different to normal running marks, but enough to cause noise. A thicker oil after building could have slightly improved the noise but won't fix it, as you've found. If this noise was one of the things you mentioned you wanted fixed when talking to the place that built the diff maybe talk to them & see if they would consider looking into it as warranty...

Did you replace the whole diff, housings & all? Or just fit an LSD centre in your own housing? If centre only, who done the work? Also what type of diff? Assuming it is a mechanical LSD type but 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way? What manufacturer, etc?

Unique Autosports pivoting front upper camber arms are the ducks guts but around $595. I believe castor arms are much of a muchness, would just lean toward something with a dust boot... Can't help you with ideas on how long it will take to remove HICAS. Done mine while the engine was out so getting the pipes & main solenoid out were a breeze. Wouldn't think it would take too long, will just be fiddly. Depends how good you are at swinging a spanner I suppose...

ECU tuning Exhaust specialist Suspension specialist Diff &/or driveline specialist

As mentioned alloy brightener can make shiny alloy dull but if you then polish it you should be ok... Be careful with the stuff. Wear a mask or don't breathe, & wear gloves. I use it at work to clean transmission cases & it's strong stuff! You'll know when you breathe it in...

Sorry rto hijack the thread but didn't want to start another one so similar if I don't have to. i would like to fit a high-value speedo to my 32 GTST but wondering how you go about it with speedo cable to get callibration right? i know some 32 GTRs have them but what needs to be swapped for conversion? R33 box if it makes any difference... Cheers, Brett

Yeah, I've snapped 2 pivots (both R32 gearbox). Both times it also damaged the slave. The first time I drove home with no clutch, the second time the fork was wedged in the clutch jamming it half on, half off so when I tried to start it up & drive home it killed my clutch within seconds (was probably close anyway...) Felt like an auto with a high-stall... Also snapped pedal box once, just got a new standard one & seam-welded it. In my opinion stronger & cheaper than Nismo. As mentioned, for the sake of $70 get one & avoid any potential headaches

Interested as to why you think that too... Have never had a problem with Toyos myself. Used to run the T1Rs. Were a good tyre in my opinion. Also my mums car has Toyo Trampios fitted & have never had a problem with them either...

A normal (non-LSD) diff oil should be used with the standard diff. Something like 80w90... Although they are LSD they are viscous, not mechanical so don't need true LSD oil & 85w140 is getting bloody thick!

If you are referring to the guy who mentioned that in this thread, he actually said whilst in diagnostics mode, which is correct. When you enter diag mode, the HICAS computer moves the rack around, testing its sensors, etc & feels trippy as!

Double-post (somehow 1 & a half hours later! Bloody phone...)

Sounds like you have a 1.2 bar actuator? If so you will never get boost below 18psi (or close enough) no matter what boost controller you use... Controllers can only raise boost above levels set by the actuator, not lower

I don't know what they were smoking but I rang Nissan for a price on a windscreen for my 32 GTST & they said there were two types available. One was around $800 & one was a bit over $2000! No idea what it was that made it so expensive... Then the guy who came to our shop to install windscreens quoted me $200 (no antenna) as he is good mates with the boss. Ended up getting a dodgy roadworthy from the workshop next door to where I worked so never worrried. Don't work there anymore. Should have got the $200 windscreen when I had the chance! Do prefer the neat, inbuilt antenna but a mates S15 has a nice little antenna inside the car which you can hardly see. Seems like the best option when the time comes

Drift have a pretty nice looking fan controller & at a very reasonable price... Haven't used one myself but have heard good things about them. Check it out on their website. As for the a/c side of things I think you're on the right track. May need a 5-pin relay with two switch points, one for fan controller, one for a/c...

Mate it mentions in the 1st post ( & trident has pointed out) that he is using a Vipec.

TyresBro, I would say removing pump, all lines, swapping rack for lock-bar, etc there is around 15-20kg to be lost in a 32. Was a lot heavier than I thought...

Sweet, cheers mate. Will have a muck-around & get the cable to run as nice as possible. You obviously haven't had any problems... Yes, used your guide. Very detailed & easy to follow, excellent write-up! Am a motor-mechanic myself but think things are explained & shown well enough that even people with very basic skills could do the job...

Here is a pic of what I am talking about. Not the best but couldn't be bothered jacking car up, etc... Did you do conversion & speedo stuff yourself?

Not at the moment but will take one tomorrow & post it up. I would assume all people with the same setup have had this problem... Maybe most just leave it as is or remove cable from brackets as I said before... As I say just think it's worth asking

I have an R32 GTST with RB25DET & R33 gearbox. Just tonight (in the dark) I fitted my modified Navara/VL speedo drive as per the DIY guide. However to then get my speedo cable screwed onto the end of it, I had to really bend the cable around more than I would have liked. It is now hooked up fine but the cable is doing a quite sharp 180-degree turn then a sharp 90... Wondering what other people with the same setup have done in regards to this? If there is no straight-forward solution or if people are just leaving it like this I will work something out myself when I have more time ( & light...) At the moment the cable is still held by the standard brackets so may just be a case of removing these, routing the whole thing slightly different to create a better path & re-securing somehow. Just thought if it had been done before it may make things easier... Any info would be appreciated. Cheers, Brett

From what I have read, the idea of the fuel pump lowering voltage at idle is to minimise excess fuel being passed through the engine bay, heating up then returning to the tank.

Only thing is, with the Nistune you will need to use a Z32 ECU to keep VCT... Still worth it.

You won't cause any harm as the stock ECU with those mods will run rich not lean. Unsure why everyone is suggestinng SAFC. For a tiny bit extra I would go a Nistune. Full retunable ECU so will get you more gain now & you won't have to upgrade again l.aterif you add more mods...