wlspn

So basically every time you install the center & dont get the correct backlash readings the centre must come out, you slightly adjust shims then start again. Also how are you measuring backlash? The proper way is with a dial-indicator which measures in 0.01mm increments. As a general rule, dependant on gear size, you want 0.10-0.20mm backlash.it is very hard to judge this by feel unless you have built a shitload of diffs... Are you going to paint the gears & check meshing pattern? Honestly if you dont have the tools or knowledge mentioned & really want this diff to last it is quite often better (& easier) to go to a specialist.

There is a bit of an art to properly setting up a diff. If you are happy with the carrier preload (how tight the centre slots into the housing then what you need to do is leave the total thickness of shims the same but adjust your backlash by adding to one side & removing from the other. e.g If you had a 1.0mm shim each side of the carrier you would change the crown-wheel side shim to .95 & the other side shim to 1.05. There is no set rule with sizes, you just need to keep checking. As you can tell to get things perfect you need a large collection of different sized shims which is why a lot of people would just go to a diff specialist. Pinion preload (crush on spacer) can also affect backlash. Most people dont realise but there is a lot involved in correctly setting up a diff, like pinion preload, carrier preload, backlash, mesh pattern, etc

Have a GReddy style plenum on RB25 in my R32 & used a Silvia (s13 I think) throttle-cable as they have a front-facing plenum standard. Just had to make up a custom bracket for it... Good luck

What sort of high-flow exactly? As in made by who? Standard oil/water lines? I assume there are 4 hoses ( top, bottom, left & right)? & what makes you think it's getting hot? Is it glowing, smoking, etc? Also when you say no oil is coming out the bottom is that with car running or switched off?

Yeah go to repco & get a ford falcon grommet. Same size...

My 32 GTST (coupe) came with single-piston calipers all round & when I changed to R33 4/2 pots (very similar, if not same as R32 GTR) the R32 rear lines were the wrong length. Went to the brake shop & got some custom braided lines made up on the spot for around $60...

Sounds like it could be a diff noise...

Same story here. Super-glued it up & havent had a problem since...

Hi guys, ALL my window & door seals & trim (everything around all windows) is starting to get pretty crappy & I am wondering if anyone has or can get part numbers for these? I know a few guys who have done R32 GTR restorations have replaced these but no-one has ever mentioned part numbers. We all know unless you know exactly what parts you want, Nissan can be an absolute pain in the arse &/or order in the wrong parts... Alternatively does anyone know of any non-genuine options for these sort of things? Can get pics of everything wanted if that helps... Cheers

Remove the return hose to the reservoir & run it into a bucket. Have a mate stand there blocking the hole in the reservoir. Start the car & get your mate to keep filling the reservoir with new fluid as the old stuff runs into the bucket. While this is happening you should be in the car turning steering wheel lock to lock. Continue until only clean oil runs into the bucket then turn off car, re-attach the return hose, fill, re-start car, bleed & repeat until fully bled & at correct fluid level. This is a full flush & what you would do if system was contaminated (water, etc) however you will use quite a bit of fluid depending on how dirty the old oil was.

Use the search button, this was covered not long ago. In short, you are much better off going with an RB25 box. Just as strong & a lot less hassle.

Go to Repco, etc & buy some battery terminal protector if you are keen. For personal use a can will last forever...

Are you happy to take the items out of the engine-bay? Because if not you're probably going to get shit everywhere! For polishing I normally try & remove the item from the car, (obviously remove any paint, rust, etc) then use a cotton-type buff wheel on a bench grinder for the bigger areas & the same type of wheel on a dremel for the fiddly bits. I've been using Green Rouge polishing compound but there would be other compounds that work just as well. Just a warning, it can be tricky & time consuming to get a professional finish...

How long have you had this problem? You mention the head-gasket was replaced a month ago... If you have only had the problem since then I wonder if the system wasn't fully bled? Can be bloody hard to get ALL the air out. If this is the case it will obviously get to a point eventually where it won't take any more water...

If you want to get right into it, check out Pyrotek Pyrojacket. Have seen it on some top-notch, HIGH-powered cars... Bright orange, flame-proof heat-shield for hoses. That being said have also seen many high-powered cars running bare braided lines (as you mentioned) Like everything, just depends how far you want to go I suppose... I personally have been running unshielded Aeroquip (hi-temp "rubber") water lines & oil drain from my turbo for years & they are still like new. No ceramic-coating or even heat-shields around my turbo either. Will be a job for next time turbo's off but not a problem so far... General cooling is the same, depends how far you want to go... Could ceramic-coat (or insulate someway) what intercooler-piping is under the bonnet & piping from airbox to turbo, ceramic-coat manifold, heat-shield &/or wrap everything, bigger radiator, etc, etc...

The common Nissan gearbox bearing noise isn't actually the input-shaft bearing, it is normally the cluster-shaft bearing, located in the sandwich plate. Have had this with my RB20 & RB25 gearboxes. As mentioned is there in neutral until pedal is fully depressed so does seem like input-shaft... After 2+ years my RB20 got to the point where like the guy above, I drained the oil & a whole squashed bearing cage fell out Replaced the bearing, thrashed the hell out of the box & had noise again 6 months later. Then drove it like that for another 2 or more years & all was fine. Only fitted RB25 box because I fitted RB25 engine & had it laying around...

So what was it?

Did the o-ring from the old filter definitely come off before you put the new filter on? Have had a lot of cars where the old o-ring sticks to the sealing area so if you didn't check & just put the new filter on, obviously it wouldn't seal...

Just out of interest how did you come to the conclusion that the fins (at least...) are copper?

Mr Stabby, if you actually read the first post I think you'll find he says he doesn't attract much attention despite all those things... & from the looks of it, 200 was calling R32 SKYLINE GTS a f*ckwit, not the OP... Who feels like a f*ckwit now?

Will you be running the RB26 ITB's or grafting a bigger single on the front of the plenum? If a street car I personally would be going RB26 setup but curious what your plans are...

I totally agree with you guilt-toy but we all know what the law is like... Basically the same as your p-plate falling off the back window then you being fined for not displaying (happened to me even tho front plate was up) or being fined for having a brake/tail-light out. We are somehow meant to know every single detail like that...

It's actually a 10k fine. & Hamish, they then send you to EPA who verify you have no cat or internals... & basicallty it doesn't matter if their thermometer reads 50 degrees out, they are only looking for a difference before & after cat. & different materials may make a slight difference but not much, & anyway almost all of us run a s/s exhaUst & cat which they can tell by looking

Some police use a infra-red thermometer to measure temp before & after the cat. Can't thionk which way it is right now (just woke up) but I think with a cat in place it is hotter. Have had it done to me but luckily I run a cat. MASSIVE fines if you're caught without one...

A very easy & free way to check for air leaks is to spray cooler piping with soapy water while idling (fast idle if necessary) If you have any leaks it will blow bubbles...