wlspn

Just to clarify, R33s didn't come out standard with a bb turbo... As for oil, personally I would use full synthetic. Its not much dearer. Castrol Edge can be had for as little as $50-$55 At the end of the day but the choice is yours....

Have the Trust PEII & recon you would like it. Nice on idle, definitely not like stock but not stupidly loud... Then as you really start to rev it up she goes wild! From what I have heard one of the more sedate jap exhausts

Yeah, ARC intercooler should be nice. Much better than JJ, that's for sure... Stock airbox flows plenty & as its sealed from the engine-bay sucks in much colder air. Pod only good if you make up a heatshield or airbox for it & have a CAI. People make 350+rwkw on standard airbox with high-flow filter & custom intake. & its legal... Would definitely look into grounding the solenoid. Very easy to do & looks completely standard + you cant safely raise boost any more than 10psi anyway which is achievable with grounded solenoid. GTR strut bars & walbro should all be pure bolt-on. & lastly you don't NEED a SAFC II or Neo with fuel pump. Even with a bigger pump the injectors wont put out any more fuel... As mentioned would see if Nistune is available for auto-trans. For the tiny bit extra it will cost has a LOT more potential for now & especially down the track

Thoroughly check your coilpack loom. If possible remove that section of loom (connects just behind head, maybe half a foot after cylinder 6 coilpack. Then test the resistance/continuity of all wires from loom connector to coil plug. If 3 is dramatically different from the others I would hazard a guess you have a broken or damaged wire, etc Someone else may know of a more common problem but first thing I would check...

Basically a turbo car with the turbo taken off will have worse performance than a standard non-turbo due to lower compression, different camshaft specs, etc... But then the non-turbo will have a weaker diff, gearbox, etc. & as mentioned even if you take the turbo off it is registered as a turbo so still technically illegal. Take the advice & wait it out for one more year... The amount of work you would have to do to a non-turbo to get it to standard turbo spec would cost you so much you could have waited & bought a far better turbo model in a years time. Just start saving now & you will have plenty of cash for when the time comes. Be patient grasshopper!

Did you change plugs before or after replacing AFM? If you done plugs, were in failsafe, then replaced AFM & now have a miss maybe you have just fouled plugs... Car runs very rich in failsafe & for free worth cleaning & refitting plugs

yeah, would look at replacing piping between airbox & turbo with either a solid pipe or one of the silicon items exact same fitment as stock...

Seem to have got it right. Nice & firm but no longer tight enough to make bearing noise. Am a qualified mechanic so should know but work only on automatic transmissions at work... Went with gut feeling & it seems to have paid off so will know next time

With no ECU LEDs & no dash light not really... Maybe a light can be hooked up directly? Like use a pin-out to find which wire is check engine light & maybe it can be wired to a light/LED. No idea if it would work but only thing I can think of...

Harey, read the first post again. Exhaust was dropped at dump already with no change... Have to agree with most that its not a boost leak. Strong, steady boost plot! Out of interest exactly what mods do you have? Have a very similar setup so would just like to know but may also help with diagnosis...

Unless the wastegate area is perfectly sealed from the exhaust I imagine you will get exhaust flow from 'screamer' all the time. Black smoke I would put down to standard ECU running overly rich as you mention. & yes exhaust wrap will smoke for a long time. Takes ages to burn off & generally stinks too!

Ok, well its in failsafe which is why it has a 2500ish rpm rev-limit... Perform self diagnostic (will be a thread in DIY section if you don't know how) & check for codes. If you have none try wiggling AFM plug & revving car to see if it suddenly revs higher. If not try same with TPS. Did you do your own wiring conversion?

skyper, rb20s did not come factory with a ball-bearing turbo

As above how do I judge how tight to do my timing belt? Was done less than 1000km's ago but a mate tightened it while I was working on other things & it made a lot of bearing noise despite new idler & tensioner bearings being fitted. Now I have pulled it down to fit an adjustable cam-gear & want to be sure its tensioned correctly... In a DIY thread on here they said to turn engine over & tighten tensioner bolt at same time? I tried that & it seems WAY too loose! Anyone got any other methods?

As above how do I judge how tight to do my timing belt? Was done less than 1000km's ago but a mate tightened it while I was working on other things & it made a lot of bearing noise despite new idler & tensioner bearings being fitted. Now I have pulled it down to fit an adjustable cam-gear & want to be sure its tensioned correctly... In a DIY thread on here they said to turn engine over & tighten tensioner bolt at same time? I tried that & it seems WAY too loose! Anyone got any other methods?

Ok good news... Thanks for the replies

Just purchased an adjustable exhaust cam-gear for my RB25 from Access Autoworks. It looked like it used an alloy adjustable centre with steel outer gear but when I received it (a family member picked it up for me) I realised the outer gear is also alloy. I have heard some stories about alloy gears wearing & allowing the belt to slip but am wondering if this is a common thing or something that happened once & got spread all over the net? If anyone has had this happen (firsthand or to a mate, etc) how long did the alloy gear last? Access Auto give a 12-month guarantee so I assume it will last at least a year... It looked like the inner adjustable part of the new gear would fit in the original steel gear so I have gone ahead today & removed the timing belt & cam-gear, however it missed out on fitting by .7 of a mm (Damn close!) so some machining is needed. I can take the original gear to work & machine it on the lathe to fit the adjustable centre but wont be able to do that until at least Monday (if I'm lucky) & need car running by Tuesday night as its booked in for tuning Wednesday. Thinking of running the alloy gear for now, modifying the original ready & periodically (during service, etc) checking the alloy gear for wear. Then if I need to replace it or if I can just be arsed one day will swap everything back over. It is a bit of a bugger of a job to do twice but! Basically just after opinions of people who have used them how bad the alloy gears really are...

Do you know what year the car was that the series 2 engine is from? 98' (last of series 2 R33s) RB25s use the same CAS as the neo motors (black plastic item) but apart from that they are all the same. Also ECUs are exactly the same. Series 1 has an external ignitor, series 2 has ignitor in coilpacks, not ECU. However if you do happen to have a engine from a 98' R33 I could be wrong. Sure about 94'-97' models but... Apart from that you should be fine

4 rotors & 3 tyres you'll just have to buy, maybe your dad can still get trade discounts? Radiator hose leak is possibly as simple as tightening/replacing a clamp, worst case maybe replacing a hose... Depends where it is? P/S same deal, could be a hose clamp, perished hose or gasket from pump area. Hose, tighten/replace, pump gasket, pull line/housing off, buy some gasket paper & reseal... If its rack you may need to get it looked at or replaced. Rocker covers are only held in with screws so piss-easy to work with. You may get away with cleaning the rubber gaskets, cleaning the head & re-using them or buy replacements from Bursons, etc... For now just try tightening the screws a touch. Radiator bushes, ring Nissan spare parts & get a price. Only have to remove the two brackets supporting the top of the radiator (1 bolt each), lift radiator just a bit (or get someone to do that for you) with hoses still attached, while you're under the car. Should get enough movement to slip old ones out & new ones in. Very easy! May even be able to get good second-hand ones (R34?) if Nissan prices are stupid. Mine are fine & car is an 89'... Radiator flush is maybe a little hard, especially if you are not overly confident, as you want to remove (& maybe replace) thermostat to do the job properly & then ensure it is bled correctly when refilling coolant. I would suggest going to a proper radiator shop & getting system reverse-flushed. This is a high-pressure flush in the opposite direction to which the water normally flows & cleans all heater hoses, etc... However I have to say that is the only thing I would suggest you pay for. All the rest is simple enough & if you have a crack now & find you can do it you will save THOUSANDS in service fees down the track. If you are unsure of anything use the search function or post up more topics. I know most people on here would do their own servicing & would normally be able to help you with anything you're unsure about. Anyway, as for the service, roughly what did you pay? Would expect if he was using good synthetic oil & good quality parts you may have paid $350-$400... But that's from a mechanics point of view, have never paid for a service! lol If your old man is an ex-mechanic you should have him doing it or at least teaching you so you can save money in the future... All the stuff you have mentioned is dead-easy to do yourself once you have a crack at it & would assume you have a tool or two lying around the house. As a side-note, I would suggest just using copper plugs, especially when/if you learn to change them yourself. Fair enough not wanting to pay a mechanic to do them every 5-10000 kms but once you change them yourself iridiums, etc are not worth the extra $100 Good luck with it all!

Alright, was a bit tired yesterday so here's a better explanation of boost creep. What I said yesterday was more boost spike I suppose... OK, say you have boost set at 10psi... The wastegate flap does not stay 100% sealed until you reach 10psi then instantly open fully. (although that would be lovely!) Instead as boost pressure builds the wastegate flap slowly creeps open, leaking some boost, & should fully open at 10psi. This is not good because as soon as the wastegate flap starts to open boost builds slower. Do you follow me? What you are talking about is what I would consider to be slight restriction of movement of the wastegate flap.

Whoops, double-post... Damn phone!

OK. Hard to suggest too much without seeing it in person as can't really tell how much metal you have to play with... Could possibly champfer the edge where the wastegate flap is touching to allow more movement but if you're getting concerned you may do more damage than good its probably best to just leave it. I truly believe things will not be greatly, if at all, affected & you don't want to ruin it for little to no gain... & just to clarify I think you will find when people refer to boost creep they mean boost level slightly altering from the set level

Any chance of seeing a pic of dump pipe, seperator area? Wouldn't think it's going to restrict flow dramatically, if at all, as it'is open almost all the way, but would obviously be nice if you could get it all the way open...

Last I heard, only months ago, it wasn't necessary to have a cat-converter in NZ. Unless the guy(s) who mentioned that didn't really know (or care about) the law...

Hope its not CAS. Never had the issue before the haltech went in & was tuned so does that rule that out? Leaking injector(s) is something I will try to look into, & is quite possible as injectors were recently highflowed. Will also check 0 rpm tables on haltech & cranking rpm too.. Should mention it doesn't happen every time.. Whatever it is I'm guessing it wont cause any major probs?