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What, unbolt & remove plate which cooler & filter are attached to & then screw filter directly onto block? I take it thats not what you mean?

Thats what Im starting to consider... Possibly a fault in the ECU itself. If it is thats fine, ill go get a Z32 ECU tuned to suit by Dr Drift or similar but if its not I dont have a clue what to try next

No. Every vac line has been replaced & FPR swapped with another to test. Have also tried another known working temp sensor... Thnks for ideas but. Keep them coming...

RB30 pumps are definitely different to RB25 pumps. Very similar but the RB30 doesnt have the elongated hole for the small bolt. I got around this by drilling & tapping a thread in the block to line up with the RB30 water pump. If you pull it all apart & have access to a tap & die kit, I recommend it. Also, not sure of importance, but 1 water pump I got had bigger impellers & less of them so I swapped it for a different brand which matched 25 pump impeller exactly...

Hi. Having major problems with car & after eliminating so many other things starting to suspect ECU. Does anyone in SE Melb (Im in Cranbourne) have an ECU they are not currently using (car off road, etc) I could try? Car is a R32 GTST but fitted with a series 1.5 (95 model) RB25 so s1.5 or s2 will do the trick. Thanks

Checked all this today, came back fine... Every test I do comes back fine although there is obviously something wrong... Any chance ECU could be at fault? Or anyone have any other ideas?

Had short use of a scantool to check live data... So supply voltage to ECU. Signal line from AFM to ECU? & does anyone know which pins in ECU are earths? Have a pin-out but unsure of accuracy...

Yeah, have tried error codes. Only have something when I am running car without AFM, etc... Have also reset ECU

Have written a few threads about this recently & Im sure some of you are sick of them but I need to try & find an answer... Had no car for months! My RB25 is badly overfuelling on idle & all through rev-range. Injector pulse at idle is 7ms! Have no vacuum/IC leaks, have tried other AFMs & temp sensors, all with no luck... 1 interesting thing is I was told to unplug AFM & see what happened... While unplugged, the idle stopped hunting & exhaust stopped smoking, however you could smell it was still a bit rich. When I plugged AFM back in & went to rev engine, it was still in limp mode. I turned car off & on, same thing... Eventually with AFM plugged in I wiggled the wires & it came out of limp mode. It seems even moving where the AFM wiring meets the main loom has some effect on idle, (in & out of limp mode) but still nothing perfect. Does this give anyone any ideas? (bad earth from ECU to AFM, etc...) Really going crazy! Any help appreciated

Thats the nosecone (front plate) of a manual transmission. The machined surface is what the thrust slides on...

Hey mate not sure of part number but same as series 2, not series 1. The 1.5 engine doesnt use the seperate ignitor where series 1 does so loom & coilpack pins are different... Hope it helps

Wondering what IACV % should be? Had my car hooked up to a scantool the other day & IACV was at 100%. Doesnt seem right (although not sure) & Im having MAJOR problems with my car (7ms injector pulse at idle) so wondering if this could be the problem... Any help appreciated

As mentioned in a previous thread, since installing an RB25 in my R32 I have had huge over-fueling issues, at idle & all through rev range. Was just able to use a scantool to look at live data & the main thing that I noticed was injector pulse is around 7ms at idle. Also noticed IACV & "alpha airflow" (anyone know what this is?) were both at 100%. Does anyone know roughly what these readings should be & what could cause them to max out, or what could cause such a large injector pulse? Any help appreciated...

Buddy, in regards to the gasket, try Bursons. They carry most gaskets for Skylines & are half the price of genuine...

Hi, as stated, wondering if anyone has Nissan consult, or similar diagnostic tool in SE vic? Have put an RB25 in my R32 & now its overfuelling & really playing up on idle (maybe due to fuel). Really need to get a look at the sensors, etc to see if this will give me any info. Any help appreciated. Cheers, Brett

There is a thread on this, either in the DIY/ tutorial section or the forced induction reference guide. Was having a read just the other day... A lot of people blame atmospherical-venting BOVs & some people seem to have had luck directly earthing the fuel pump to chassis in the boot. Try find it & have a read, may give you some ideas. My RB20 used to do it almost every time I stopped & it drove me nuts!

Mate not sure of a price per metre but mild steel is usually a lot cheaper than stainless. If you are going to make the piping yourself I would suggest somewhere like Truck Bits as they have most bends, etc available & are generally well priced....

Yeah I am using the smaller diameter thrust. Am wondering if that along with the Nismo slave is giving me this strange pedal feel? Maybe only needed to go one or the other? Have driven a mates GTR with multi-plate clutch & the pedal was ridiculously heavy so thought I would need all the help I can get. Now it really seems too soft at top of pedal, getting firmer in stages as pedal is pushed in...

Mate, you were checking auto trans level with engine running, after going thru all gears werent you? a lot of people assume its like engine & should be checked turned off...

Have just put a R33 box in my 32 with good secondhand OS Giken triple-plate & Nismo oversized slave. Also got a smaller diameter & smaller height thrust. Now the top half of the pedal feels like there is nothing there at all although it is moving slave slightly, next bit of pedal feels fairly normal & then just before you hit the floor pedal is really firm. The reason for the thrust was the diaphragm fingers on OS stuck out about 6mm further than previous clutch so went 6mm less height to compensate & you could see from marks on diaphragm it had been running a much smaller than stock thrust (Im assuming to help with pedal effort) so used what had been on it before. Any one had similar problems? Any help/info/advice appreciated.

Problem 1: Had exact same noise in my R32 & R33 boxes. Would bet it is the cluster-shaft bearing located in the seperator plate. cop to get to as whole gearset needs to be removed from shaft but if you can do the work yourself its only like a $40 bearing Problem 2: Have you turned your stereo off? haha. Im not hanging shit, just my mate complained to me for months about a high-pitched noise in his GTR, increasing with revs. Finally took it for a test-drive for him & worked out it was from his amplifier wiring. Anyway good luck

Have checked most of those things, besides wiring obviously. Hoping to have someone come around today with consult. Should this show any wiring problems? Like if AFM, etc was wired incorrectly or there was an ECU fault would it be immediately obvious with consult? Yes Paul, running R33 TPS off donor engine

msnismo: No, RB25 was stock when in old car. Turbo was on my RB20 which ran fine with turbo, FMIC, etc. Only changes since then have been plenum, throttle body, swap to GTR cooler & piping, catch can & other small bits & pieces. Would these affect idle so badly? grigor: Have gone back to fully standard fuel system with no change. Waiting on a mates FPR as its been suggested this could be contributing. rb30 22: Who checks & tests ECU's? Trying to organise to use someones consult software. May be able to swap ECU's over quickly & see if that helps... Car runs a lot better cold & gets worse as it heats up. Originally thought cold start was not turning off which is why Iv suspected the mentioned parts being at fault.

Wondering if anyone in SE Vic has Nissan consult or some other form of diagnostic tool? Have an RB25 in my R32 & am having major overfuelling problems. Would like to be able to get data on AFM, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, etc Cheers

Thats what I was thinking. Was expectin not to be able to boost it up but thought I would have been able to keep it under 3k rpm & at least drive it to tuners... No, car hasnt run right since 1st start with new engine. Put stock fuel pump back in yesterday & still having same problems. I have the whole R33 the engine has come out of & it drove fine last time it went. Problem is engine has been out on a stand for at least 12 months... Thanks for your opinion