petern

Dr Drift does all R33 ECUs now - located in Melbourne http://www.drdrift.com.au/aboutus.php I did get a quote of them, but went with Toshi as he is local, one day to get done and was cheaper

We took quite a while (about 5-6 hrs??) on the dyno as we had some issues with the ECUs and the voltage and timing was jumping. Toshi knew that there are 3 diferrent ECUs for the R33 - Series 1, 1.5 and 2. Upon initial test at his house and a quick road tune, it looked like the S2 he had would work in my S1.5. Toshi and Yavuz from Unigroup did some fine tuning on the emulator and then he burnt to the chip and installed into ECU. It didn't perform the same! Long story short, a bit of head scratching and 2 chips later, the final tune was installed into a spare S1.5 ECU he had. It is a turbotech manual controller, the boost lose was due to heat soak. The SMIC was actually very hot to touch. I'm not too fuss about the boost drop, just means the turbo will live longer

I was desperate and there was a 98 shortage at my local servos on that day The Stagea SMIC is exactly like the R34 and was only $100 That was exactly the same train of thought I had when I started to modify the Skyline. Those mods are the best bang for your bucks and 200kw daily street car is very nice........ As for the boost thing, it was heat soak on the dyno. As you can see from the dyno chart we did a few runs (not all full runs) to get to the final figure, the last few were back to back. I tell people 200kw, if i had that extra 0.5 psi it would have made it

I've had my ECU remapped by Toshi but we done it on the dyno. Pretty happy with the results. 198.9kw @ 10.5psi X-force bellmouth dump pipe, X-force cat, Kakimoto exhaust (2 mufflers) Stagea side mount Silicone intake Iridium plugs Turbotech boost controller I did find out last week that I HAVE to use premium fuel only, was pinging bad! A full tank (50L to fill) would get me around 380-400km. The best I got out of a full tank was 591km - trip to Canberra and back and drove to work for a couple of days. This option of remap was perfect for me as I don't intend on modifying the Skyline any further.

Just jap have x-force ones, in stainless steel and mild steel bottom of the page - X-Force Dump & Engine Pipe - RB20 / RB25 http://www.justjap.com/parts_ndumps.htm

Spotted yesterday a silver R32 GTR (GTR 32H) twice! Once going to work - gave the nod when i drove pass and saw it a couple of cars ahead when on the way home

200kw at around 11-12psi shouldn't be too hard. this is my first experience with x-force, so far so good - for me it is a cheap and effective alternative at $355 from justjap 20kw was from the mods i mentioned. red line - kakimoto cat back, original Autoline spark plugs! way too rich! blue line - the mods i mentioned which increased the boost a little. AFR better but still too rich

I was in the exact same situation a few months ago. Looking for better flow without the large increase in noise. I had a Kakimoto cat back (2 oval muffler system), nice quiet note on idle and free flowing enough. I ditched the standard dump/front for a x-force bellmouth mild steel one. Replaced the compliance cat with a x-force 3in. Tiny bit louder, but improved the flow and made 20kw more. Other changes were Stagea SMIC, iriduim plugs, silicone intake pipe and still using standard boost controller. I have have dyno sheet if interested.

I have fitted this to my R33 with stock air box, and I can even hear the turbo spool Got 3 pics here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3324049

It was all in the camera. Basically, camera on a tripod hanging out the window, long exposure and pushing the car

firstly, very nice car and location Frink Got some good shots of my R33 from a mate.

maybe spray a little WD on where it goes inside the turbo. In normal operation, the actuator won't open the flap that far to get "stuck". I see 2 options: 1. take off the dump pipe and try to enlargen the hole for the wastegate 2. buy a bellmount dump pipe this guy went for option 2 and fixed it http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=180864

Installed on weekend. Still using standard airbox. Mind also needed trimming on all inlet/outlets.

recently bought a set of Iridium off PerformanceLub.com http://performancelub.com/NGK%20pricelist.htm $85 delivered in 2 days Supercheap wanted $20 each and an extra $12 to order them in!

Hi Sam, Email sent for quote. Cheers, Peter

there should be no resistant at all, it just opens and closed a flap inside. -if nothing was there, you would have no boost -if it was closed, you would have unlimited boost The good thing is it can open fully and not hit anything, but the actuator wouldn't have that reach so only opening partially. So i still stand by my comment that the flap opening in the wastegate pipe is affecting flow, as the air is hitting flap and going to the side of the pipe.

thanks for bumping this thread up - had to show someone

you may be on the right track that it could be the split dump pipe, as you said it didn't happen before the exhaust was put on. The reason as explained to me by my tuner. The wastegate is not fully opening, but when it is the flap is opening in the dump pipe itself - therefore restrict flow as keeping some boost. I got a split dump and was told by my turner to return it and get a bellmouth one. He has seen many Skyline with this boost spike. On one car they even tried enlarging the open, grinding around it to flow better but still spiked - replaced with a bellmount and problem was gone. BUT.. on the other hand, I have read that many other people has used the spilt dump without any problems

Hi, Do you still have/selling the stock side mount S2 intercooler with ducting? If so, how much? Cheers

Jago: I think i spotted you this morning on Norwest turning into RES MED. I saw the SAU sticker on the side window. I had a quick look when I was passing you, to wave/thumbs up etc... but you were looking straight. Was late for work, also i like giving it a squirt up that hill anyway nice car

did you see this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=172056 there was final pics of the lights in evesdropping first reply i haven't done it yet, still have to buy the LEDs

you can also try Lander Motor group in Blacktown Cnr Newton Rd & Lancaster St i get my oil filters there all the time, even got the right touchup paint and ordered a o2 sensor through them

i'm pretty sure you can use any battery, you just need the clear tube for venting Mines a stocky and this is how I got it - see pic

I had this situation with my 1600, and because its got cross drilled and slotted disc I though they might be warped too. I had a wheel alignment done and the shuddering under brakes stopped.

looks pretty cool, didn't realise it was that easy to change over, i thought i would have to change the whole thing. one of the bulbs is blown and hard to see the buttons at night, so will definetely doing that thanks for the guide and the result pics.