Cubes

Hey ppls, Who's interested in a cruise up to Lobethal Lights this Friday the 15th? Madaz will be taking his daughter and I too will be taking my boy. Tangles are you up for a cruise to Lobethal with the budding photographer? The plan was to meet at KFC/Hungrys Anzac Highway ~6:30ish grab a bite to eat then head off at around 7, hopefully arriving at Lobethal just after its gone dark. Last year there was a house with a massive setup; many were getting out of their car and walking up to and around the garden. As the boy is old enough this year I will be going for a little walk with him providing that same house does the same this year. Vote in the poll just to get some numbers.

Sounds right for a 100% stock GTR. Thats around 220-230fwkw.

My other halfs brother works at Mitsi's and has had a lease since ~6-7years ago. So I've driven and thrashed the nackers out of all of them and felt the development through out the years. I'm not familiar with the models etc. The first 3.5ltr VRX 5speed I drove was quite a torque steering animal, the diff was VERY tight and would twin up everywhere, however it would torque steer very bad. After a drive through the hills it would leave you feeling like you've just had a big session at KartMania. The next model was considerably softer, the diff would tend to open wheel but it was much easier to punch out of corners as a result. The AWD magna... That was fun. The handling was awesome, much better than that of the fwd push push push magna. Foot flat U-Turns were interesting as were doing donuts in the wet. The AWD I felt really was the best driving experience that inspired confidence, all though it did feel down on power due to the added weight I presume. After that they were pretty much all the same, build quality improved some what until the 380 was released. He now has a 380GT auto, it does have a lot more torque down low and through the mid range. It also feels a little more free reving. Overall I think it would go slightly better than the older VRX model but I have yet to drive the GT in 5speed flavor, torque steer is much improved however it can still bite you hard if accelerating moderately and you hit a pot hole without two hands on the steering wheel. The 380 GT feels a little more boaty, not as firm through the corners as the old VRX but thats to be expected as its a GT spec, not so much a pure sports model. The 380's do much much better burnouts. Handbreak on stab the throttle rev's through first quickly and clicks in to second, those factory tyres smoke up really really quickly, smoke begins to float out of the vents, let of the brake, spins for a little then drops back to first and screams as it peels off down the road erm... track. The fwd's always have me feeling a little nervous as I really don't like under steer, the skylines well mine at least tends to be very very neutral. You will so much prefer that feel once you finally get your 33'.

IF you select a decent sized turbo to make 'decent' power, throw on a plenum and you will have the rev's. The plenum appears to be the key for an rb30 to rev, or just use an rb26 head. Its about the package.. Either way the gt2535 on an rb30 rb25 head with stock plenum will always go better than on the rb25 due to the higher average power.

lol bugger.. Those caps are supposed to be ok but not suited to the temps of a psu.. Madaz.. Yep I've noticed mainboards are now starting to go solid state caps, taken their time. Vid cards have been solid state for quite some time.

I've had a bit of a bad run with Antec PSU's. :S I bought an Antec Sonata case some time ago that came with a Truepower 380w. Within 3months the psu went pop, good old bad caps. Had it replaced under warranty. For a while now I've been experiencing cold boot issues where the system would boot at fail safe speed, entering the bios and resaving would have the computer boot at full speed. I've always put it down to a flakey m/board as since day one its been overclocked and has been vdd & mem volt modded. Well not so... Today I had issues with the trusty antec psu powering up an E6400, dropped a cheapo psu on it and its as good as gold. Cracked open the antec psu and lo and behold.......... Leaky caps. I have another system running on a Antec 350w Trueblue or what ever they are called, that too is experiencing the odd cold boot issue so I think its time to pull my finger out and have a look at that too.. The caps causing the problems....... Fuhiyyu A little search.. not surprising. http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&...earch&meta= In short.. A couple+ years ago Antec were a damn good PSU.. Just a pitty I can't find my receipt for warranty. I'll throw some decent caps in to it and off I go again.

pixel8r, Just cars, shannons, famous, young and cool etc they all say the same. The mods MUST be deemed legal otherwise they may void the policy. We can tell the insurance company we have an aftermarket ecu, big turbo, injectors etc and they appear not to be bothered. This because they 'Assume' you read the policy where it states modifications must be legal/engineered. If not they may very well pull out of a claim. So I guess the best thing we can do is have the car towed to a place where one can have it 'stockified' meanwhile we run around deciding where to take the car to be repaired. Really depends how modified a car is.

Ahh well a good excuse to drop a cheap rb30 bottom end under the rb26 head.

nemini90, If i read what you are saying correctly you have the series 1 block that doesn't have the flat machined surface for the tensioner on the exhaust side. Some have simply placed 2 tensioners up above the water pump, others.... not sure what others have done. What ever you do ensure 100% that it is perfectly flat as you don't want the belt running off and chewing up.

Too many variables to know. Ignore the way too much oil going to the turbo theory.. Its not correct.

Mine did this some years ago.. It had some where around 100,000km's on the clock at the time. Its now done 225,000km's. The same as you.. I did a recent service that replaced all major hoses, waterpump, cam belt etc. Saw what looked like smoke. Pulled over but I managed to track it down to the snout had simply gone brittle and crumbled under the new hose clamp. I wouldn't be too concerned about internal damage from overheating, these rb20's are damn tough. When I first got mine ~5years ago it had a dodgy guage temp sender that had the temp sitting on 1/4 the majority of the time and in hot weather 1/2. It ran 2 x 12" thermo's. During hot weather the car would feel quite sluggish and spew its coolant out. After replacing the temp sender it turned out the car in hot weather was driving around ON THE H!!! It was like this for a whole summer. To this day I am still amazed the motor was fine. But yes.. back to the radiator tank... My top tank was the buggered. Natrad replaced the top tank for $90 inc labour + coolant + rodding the radiator. So head down the local radiator workshop, they should know what top tank to use. It does look slightly different, most likely of an R31 or something, but it works, fits and looks tidy so thats all that matters. ---- The R32's run a thicker radiator than the Silvia's etc.. I believe the rads are identical to the GTR. Measuring the side of the core mine measures up at 50mm. It copes fine with hot weather, with the a/c off it will peak at around 87 in traffic or up a long hill, general cruising it sits on the usual 84degree's that it sits on even on those 4degree winter mornings. With the A/C on it will peak 95 generally or 100degree's if really stuck in traffic on a 40degree day. But it doesn't go much over that and once moving a little the engine temps come down really quick to under 90. BUT.. You can't beat the justjap rad.. Simply awesome price/performance.

Stevo.. The origional design was very touchy, its possible the design has changed to reduce this sensitivity.

Just a pitty they don't port some of the good games over to PC. I would love to get back in the Gran Turismo seat but on my pc.

Yes.. But its not what the thread op wants.

Yep I really couldn't believe it the first drive in bl4ck32's car with the new exhaust. By the size of the mufflers I expected it to be this loud arsed thing... but it wasn't.

I nice deep rumbly exhausts I think sounds tougher than a loud raspy thing..... A loud exhaust also makes the car hard to enjoy on the street as a slight up on boost has it roaring and turning heads, including the heads of police... Much prefer having a quiet exhaust that you can at least accelerate briskly without looking like a hoon with a loud exhaust or worrying if there's police around that might hear you.

Busky2k.. Any thing protruding in to the exhaust flow is going to create turbulence resulting in backpressure. Turbulence is what helps quieten the exhaust down as you know. Placing the muffler so the clamshells are facing in to the exhaust flow direction will create more turbulence and as a result quieten the exhaust down. Everything is a trade off, you can't have a very quiet well flowing exhaust. BUT a twin 2.5 or 2.25" exhaust can get very very close. Bl4ck32 runs a twin 2.25" I think it is and that is unbelievable, two little unknown looking canons on the end and its almost silent under normal conditions, open it up and its loud. Absolutely ZERO drone. If Bl4ck32 see's this thread no doubt he could shed some light in to what system he runs. My 3" doesn't drone but I did pay a reasonable amount for the exhaust ($1660 from D&T Performance Exhausts). I run a large rear muffler and a centre resonator that's much bigger than the usual, its a nice note and cannot be heard when cruising or light throttle but open it up and its damn loud. With a larger turbo its going to be just a touch too loud for me and no doubt the police so I'm going to have another large body muffler thrown in behind the cat. Either way as you say Busky2k.. For a few kw the quieter exhaust is worth it.. If not only for your ears for the saved trip over the pits when that loud exhaust gets one defected. Its the same as the V8's.. My previous car 5yrs ago (VS 5ltr 5speed) I looked in to exhausts. Back then the Twin 2.25"-2.5" exhausts were quieter than a big single 3.5" yet offered the same level of performance/flow. I went with the single 3.5" that ran 2 small body mufflers, one after the cat and one at the end. The sound of it was simply awesome, it had the identical sound of a v8 supercar when on song, especially after I dropped a cam in to it that had it revving harder. I'm a v8 bogan at heart, can't beat that pop through the extractors on idle from a mildly cammed V8. + a couple of turbo's and I'm in heaven.

I never bothered changing the sender as I figured it would be my luck that I'd waste $$ on a sender when it was the dash gauge that was dodgy. Autometer/splitfire guages are well priced and reliable.

lol yep I didn't read a post correctly.

lol and that you are

SAZilla, Restriction only exists IF you use a poor muffler. A nice clean muffler does nothing to hurt power. Some of the jap mufflers out there are very restrictive as they taper down inside the muffler; some of the aussy mufflers (some Redback hotdogs & mufflers for example) have punched holes that protrude in to the gas flow, this is very very bad. The punched holes MUST be smooth and nothing must protrude in to the exhaust flow. I wouldn't throw a hot dog on to it to try and quieten it up as they do almost nothing, drop a muffler in after that cat as large as you can fit. A couple of jap exhausts that run mufflers after the cat. The HKS Silent and the Greedy Power Extreme II

A jap exhaust isn't always the way for a nice quiet exhaust. A twin 2.25" or twin 2.5" are rather quiet. Run 2 mufflers and they sound quite nice. have a centre muffler thrown in to your setup just after the cat. It will quieten it down nicely.

I believe thats considered hoon driving. If the S14 was just cruising along not going anywhere fast there's no reason why the arse bandit had to floor it and change lanes without indicating.

My uncle has a VT II 250i Manual Clubsport I think it is. It goes ok does awesome no brake burnouts due to its long first gear but really it doesn't go that hard, first time I drove it I was massively disappointed. I've had a few plays with it and it is rather slow compared to mine. But its stock, mine isn't. The LS1's do go pretty damn hard with a few mods. I'm sure Chops's Calais will shock the hell out of a lot of us rwd boys. 4wd vs rwd.. well its takes a LOT of power to catch and pass a car that has accelerated fast at low speed even if the 4wd is down 100-150rwkw. and don't forget average power. Its like comparing a 200rwkw rb20 to a 200rwkw rb25. Or even better a 200rwkw rb25 to a 200rwkw rb30.

lol