Cubes

What large sig?

A 2mm headgasket drops the comp by ~1 point over the std 1mm h/g. So given the R33 Rb25DE is 10:1 (I think or is it slightly higher) that drops the comp to ~9:1.

I've tried it.. No difference to BP98. Wasn't able to dial in 1degree more ign other wise it would knock (same as bp98) and also got the same kays out of a tank. I got mine from Findon as they were 'supposed' to have Optimax Extreme 100ron (renamed to V-power racing) available from ~29th of Oct. They haven't BUT the bloke said they are definitely getting it. http://www.coles-express.com.au/fuel.asp#1

I think you have missed what I was getting at. The Rb26's pin height has been setup as such to suit the stroke, rod length and the blocks height. If he were to use an rb25 bottom end with rb26 pistons (with their lower pin height) he WILL have end up with a lower static comp and very much less than ideal deck clearance.

'Apparently' the R33's have issues with the HKS cast item as it mounts the turbo slightly lower causing the turbo to foul on something. Check this isn't also the case with the R34's. The HKS exh. manifold is definitely a good buy.

67,000km's and my pump couldn't hold more than 160rwkw. It was a genuine 67,000km's, the car was like bran spanking new. This was 5years ago. So that would have made the car ~9years old. So similar now to using a fuel pump from a 1997 R33. Have the afr's checked with a cheap $30 power run.

Mine was fine changing it at wot. Regarding the more low end power.. The reason it probably feels that way is because the boost doesn't snap on as hard giving it an increased laggier feeling. Other than that.. unless its leaning out in the low end it won't be making less low end power. It really is silly pushing boost up unless you know for certain you have dropped a 'new' fuel pump in it. My std fuel pump died at ~160rwkw. If its feeling gutless in the low end on high boost throw it on the dyno and see whats up with it.

I did the same a few years back.. Worked well.. After a month or so I found I was leaving it on high and using my right foot to control boost.

Take it to the mechanics and get him to go over it for vac leaks, test the o2 sensor and fix whats wrong.

Well this talk of ecu remapping has definitely spurred my intention to grab a cheap R32 GTS4 *Auto* and drop an rb30det in it running an rb26 head and push out low to mid 300's at the wheels. The plan is to have a nice little sleeper that absolutely hauls arse off the line unexpectedly. An auto with a 2.8k stally that retains lock up +4wd + rb30 will no doubt do that. Plan is to get the hang of ecu remapping and do it myself. I currently have no issues tuning my powerfc, so now to learn some real hardware level theory on it all. I've found what appears to be a good introduction.... http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html

The RB26 runs a bigger stroke and same sized rods as the rb25. For all that to fit within the rb25's deck height (which is the same as the rb26) they run a piston with a lower pin/compression height. There's a bloke here in Adelaide that stroked his rb26 out to an rb29 using a destroked (machined) rb30 crank, rb26 rods and custom pistons with a very very small pin/compression height.

I'm actually toying with the idea of picking up a cheap Auto R32 GTS4 next year and dropping an rb30 in it with a 26 head. Would be a damn fun little toy thats for sure. Some of you may ask why not go a newer Skyline.. Priorities..

rb25 auto gearbox. Maybe... see how I go with the loom side of things.

As said it would be silly to use rb26 pistons. Throw an rb26 crank in it if you want to use the 26 pistons.

Yes I need to get another g/box in to mine. RB20 5speeds have a habit of being fine one second and bang no third gear the next behind the rb30det. Definitely concerning how there are no signs that its going to let go, and more concerning you don't have to be up it for it to let go. :S

The old man is picking up a BenQ FP92W 5ms LCD next Wednesdayish. Will post my thoughts on it.

Did you say you couldn't get the low volt afm reading though? i.e they were all the same 12v? Ahh well at least your learning and saving some $$ as you go. You'll get to the bottom of it.

I'm still thinking its the afm or associated wiring.

Sounds similar to the problem I'm having. I recently replaced the turbo drain hose and has appeared to make the light cruise miss/surge a touch better but it still comes and goes. Watching what the o2 sensor is doing when mine does this it reads lean. I am soon to rip the head off and do a few other things so I'm hoping I fix the issue in the meanwhile. It 'could' be coil related... poor spark under certain conditions = an incomplete burn resulting in the o2 sensor reading lean. Or it could just be a few stuffed injectors. How does yours feel when cold, noticeably worse?

My bosch pumps been great. Its done close to 150,000km's and almost 5years of service. Its always been noisy in the warmer weather, loud gurgling, surging type sound. In the cool weather its no louder than a V8 commodore pump.

My thoughts also Race__24.

I was able to blow quite a bit through mine. Definitely felt more than 0.5mm as 0.5mm is literally bugger all, based on when I've played around making my own bleeders in the past.

Interesting you have the same pain in the arse part throttle gear change issue. I can't work it out as a mates VLT has no bov and that drives fine. But the instantly on boost feel when grabbing that next gear feels so so sooooo much better.

That really is a worry when a couple of years back a bloke at a private air drag day ran 15.1 after 15.1 in his R31 GTS that only had an exhaust. What power did the GTS make? I think it was some where around 140fwkw.

hrmm not so sure on that theory Mad082. If there was enough vac to over come the spring pressure + the added equalised boost pressure some thing would be quite wrong with the intake pipe. From my own experience all it does is smooth out throttle making it nicer to drive, with the blocked its very on/off and can cause a bit of a jolt under certain circumstances. With it blocked it makes boost earlier and without touching anything else it makes 1psi more once on boost. It also won't release the bov when making boost at say 1/2 throttle then backing off to 1/4 throttle, the turbo just keeps boosting, very noticeable driving up hills as its difficult to keep off boost where as before cruise up a hill and providing acceleration was steady it would be off boost.