Cubes

Top stuff. I will be subscribing. Yes the stock ecu will work well with the 3ltr. Airflow is airflow.. The Rb30 does nothing more than shift a greater amount of airflow to a lower rpm.

I have a few bins.. Also have an R32 RB25de one. The PFC is just so easy to tune on road via its knock readout. I paid 1k for mine with h/c so not so bad. The PFC is nothing more than an rb25 powerfc pro with a different flashed chip. Being an rb25 ecu you can see the mods they have done to make it suitable for the r32's wiring loom. However.. I have been thinking about fiddling with a stock ecu.

Good info carl. ppls thats ~$263 AUD delivered. https://www.moates.net/ Carl.. The moates has no issues with liveedit? what do you use?

Some R32's drop boost some dont. The majority do but I have a feeling it has a little to do with the exhaust. Mine has always dropped boost to approx 12.5psi regardless if I dialed in 13psi or 16psi. At the time the tuner told me the only way to stop it dropping boost was to fit up a decent ebc that learns the boost curve and forces it to hold boost. I bought a Blitz SBC-id. It had the usual manual mode where you enter a duty cycle and gain value. That mode would drop boost. Auto mode you simply entered a gain value and then a boost pressure, the ebc would then slowly increase boost over 2-3 full throttle idle to redline rpm pulls. It held boost perfectly. I cant remember what made me fiddle but I elongated hte actuators bolt up holes so that I could essentially adjust the actuator, tighter or looser. Without an EBC or any form of boost control I was able to adjust to any boost level I liked and best of all it held boost to redline. So I sold the ebc.

might want to change your sig. Should work well. Shove 20pounds through it.

Yes they are a tad expensive.. But pretty close to what a new r32 pfc used to be.

I like the look of the new wolf3d. Full sequential injection, plenty of coil drivers so you don't have to run batch, o2 closed loop, + all the good bits.

I'm certain they are for the rb25 log manifold as the thread subject title does state rb25 stainless v stock exhaust manifold?!?

Legend... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=82555&hl= The above link has the std manifold flow rates and after its been extrude honed.

In the mean time if any one runs in to a sparky ask him how many pc's he thinks its safe to run off each power point. i.e power boards. :S I've got 6 dual outlets in the same room. Obviously we will need a pair of headphones each also.

It realistically won't happen until after xmas.. I've got exams on at the moment and then I have to place secure benches around the back room, sort out power issues etc.. So it all takes time and coin.

Second hand they are around... maybe..

Nevernaughty.. I can say I've heard of the engine running clutch engaged and apply pressure to the problem gear. I have recently started having issues with 4th gear when changing up from 6000rpm so I may give that ago. Failing that I will throw some synthetic castrol gear oil through it. The synth castrol stuff works well.

Microsoft has a little power tool (accessed via right click) that resizes and compresses images. Works well EDIT: http://download.microsoft.com/download/whi...wertoySetup.exe lmao.. I don't read posts.. Beaten by Howie.

A little way to get around the R&R is to bump up fuel pressure and pull a heap of airflow out of it. The only issue with this that the ecu essentially runs on a lesser load point that runs more ignition timing. This will gain you a little more power before you hit r&r but after that you really need to drop an ITC on it. OR... See Apexi are canning the Powerfc and have a type of piggy back full ecu replacement.. so still use the stock ecu but runs as a emanage type piggy back setup. It appears to look the goods and hopefully as they are canning the pfc it will be just as good as a full ecu.

Simon doesn't have a kkr430 turbo, he said he had a map put in that was to suit a kkr 430, sure not optimal for his setup but still better than the std map.

I'm assuming you got the figures around the wrong way. 10ltr/100kms around the city and 8.5 on the highway. That is good economy none the less, a testament to the tuner and most importantly your right foot. Definitely not the norm though. Your getting roughly the same as my rb30det on an untuned pfc with an inj trim to suit the larger injectors, in my case I doubt tweaking of the ign will improve economy somewhat.

I don't appear to have a PM. Where is the meet point? <looks at time>

yer my car sucks.. 2 different motors and i've always required an ebc or other means to hold boost. It always tails off to ~2-2.3psi above actuator pressure. the turbotech ball/spring mbc's do work better than the usual bleeder. The usual bleeders do tail boost off on int. gates. They appear to work fairly well on ext. gates.

OKAY!!! I've created two sticky threads. A for sale and a wanted to buy. Please read the rules so the thread is easy to keep clean. Should work well as once subscribed we can easily see new items that pop up for sale or that are wanted to buy.

Items: State exactly the part(s) you are after. Extra Info: any other details you wish to mention. Contact Details: State how you would like to be contacted. If you don't get on the site much, leave other contact details such as email or phone numbers. Price and price conditions: You must post up a price for the part you are after, and whether you are after a straight out sale or are willing to swap for other parts.

I've decided to create a general Wanted to buy thread for those items not suitable or easily posted. A few basic rules: At all times use the template provided No chit chat, use PM as a means of communication No multiple postings NO ALL CAPITALS Be sure to *update* your post once the item is found/no longer required indicating so. Do not create another post. Replying to any post within you must be willing to allow the pick-up of items *prevents scammers* Failing to follow the above rules will see your posts and future posts within this thread disappear. Ignorance is no excuse.

Items: State exactly the part you have for sale. Item Condition: Give as many details as possible of the condition of the part. Extra Info: any other details you wish to mention. Contact Details: State how you would like to be contacted. If you don't get on the site much, leave other contact details such as email or phone numbers. Price and price conditions: You must post up a price for your part, and whether you are after a straight out sale or are willing to swap for other parts.

I've created a general for sale thread for those items not suitable or easily posted. A few basic rules: At all times use the template provided No chit chat, use PM as a means of communication No multiple postings NO ALL CAPITALS Be sure to *update* your post once the item is sold indicating so. Do not create another post. Must be willing to allow pick-up of items *prevents scammers* NO interstate sellers MUST LIST A PRICE Failing to follow the above rules will see your posts and future posts within this thread disappear or possibly worse. All SALE threads that are created within the SA section will be promptly deleted, This thread is the only place for selling items. Ignorance is no excuse. Posts will be deleted once they are 3 months old. Its up to you to repost the item if it has not sold within that time. I will prune 3month+ old posts on at the end of every month. Please do attach pictures as they help the item sell quicker.

Good stuff Sly. Considered getting the inlet mani/runners done at a later date?