Cubes

Ahh well what to do.. Drive sensibly around traffic, keep the exhaust quiet, be courteous/patient to other drivers/pedestrians. I know I always allow people to cross in front and wave them on, if we all do this and drive sensibly then the image of import owners will change. The problem with this is it won't happen, these cars are cheap and available to first car owners on their P's. And we all know how young people drive, well thinking back to when I was that age, I was an idiot, always overtaking, always had to be infront. : I grew up down south where there was a road called the big dipper. One day I was cruising up that way delivering KFC and what do I see... A cop car flying down and up the dipper with grins from ear to ear as they hammered it past me in the opposite direction.

Get him to do it if he's keen as what to expect. The 64.5mm thats the size of the comp wheel that you can see from the cover yes? So the minor?

This bloke only had issues with the chassis after bolting a set of slicks on.. Apart from that it went pretty damn well.

Rip the comp cover off and measure the major and minor Makes life a little easier to track down exactly what comp wheel its running. I'm assuming its external gate.

Who was it from? The police? Never had one and don't wish to either. Its a load of crap public can simply dob some one in, it wouldn't suprise me if it was one of those bogans that simply hate imports. yea lets dob this prick in for not doing anything because he drives an import, get his car impounded. Drop another good quality muffler in after the cat, quieten it down considerably to prevent furthur problems without killing power. Should cost around $200-$250 depending on the muffler (s/steel etc) If you know you were simply cruising give them a buzz and dispute the matter, while your there find out a little info on this community traffic watch program. Find out who can report such an incident, if they require training or if it can be any member of the public. I believe in the US only trained volunteers from the public can report such incidents. A good example of how this can get out of hand is only the other day I had a dero bogan in his VP Commodore mouthing 'Piece of shit jap crap' to me at the traffic lights.. Then off he went with that v6 auto roar, I'm sure you all know the horrid sound from one of those with an exhaust. All it requires is for him and or a mate to think 'hey lets dob this prick in for hooning or whatever' and the next thing I know I'm receiving a notice or have the police at the door.

There used to be a instruments shop down on O'sullivans beach road at lonsdale that recalibrate speedo's. Northern side of the road in a group of shops towards the west end of the road.

hehe cheerz big earz. Tangles... searching sucks on sau.

The LJ/LC what ever I'm not right up with it all tend to twist their chassis with a decent amount of power. There used to be one around when I was growing up with a mild 308 in it that went to the drags and came back crabbing down the road. Providing its done properly I can't see a problem.. Personally.. I would prefer a nice little VT 5ltr dropped in it.

I gave ryan a buzz however the number appears not to be connected. Maxx can you check the number?

heheh opps. I now know differently.

Its not one individual car. The 220rwkw car is running a q45, mine now runs a z32. Most likely just the dyno, unless its running no ignition timing and or afr's are really rich. Which its not.

A couple of days is about right for a workshop, a day sitting there and to look at it, half a day for the job, the other half until they ring you to say its done. I've never had good experiences with workshops, they always take forever and a day. But it can't be helped, there's hold ups etc... But yes as Bl4ck32 said.. can you be buggered getting bent back or not. I'm contemplating spending $250 to have the subframe bushes fitted rather than doing them myself.

I had an issue with the rear locking up when I first bought my car. I slapped on a set of new rotors, bendix ultimates and bled the brakes. The brake fluid was well over due a flush, so I flushed and flushed and flushed. Whoohooo brakes no longer locked up. 2 weeks later they began to lock up again, I noticed the fluid had already started going black again so I flushed again. After ever really good flush (a 2-3bottle flush with a little drive around the block inbetween) the brakes would work really nice. It took a good 6 months of flushing almost every second weekend and now FINALLY no more brake problems and the fluid stays clear for a good few months before it becomes a little dirty looking again. But the rear brake locking issue doesn't appear. Since then its been around 3.5-4years and they are still fine, just give it a really good flush every pad change, which for me is every 1 to 1.5years. The good old castrol red bottle stuff will work well until the problem is sorted. Thats IF its the fluid causing the lock.

Steve ran once of these here in SA on his RB25DET, it made 250rwkw on 15psi, came on hard around 3000, maybe a shade over. He then dropped the comp ratio to 8.6:1, mild cams, imported a .87 int gate turbine from the US and made 323rwkw on a shade over 20psi. I believe with bigger cams and a little more boost he would have got damn close to 350rwkw. Definitely an awesome turbo, worth the 3k in my book. A pitty the .68 doesn't agree with the 3ltr. Thanks for the pic.

When I pulled the old motor out I was suprised there wasn't any noise as the first and rear cylinder had broken exhaust studs, 4 studs broken in total. I didn't bother machining the exhaust manifold and its been fine for 40,000km's, I've been watching the block for any black crap. Apart from that its not hard to do, I can have a turbo pulled off within 1.5hrs, takes about the same to put it back on. To remove the studs stuck in the head was suprsingly easy. Some may not be so lucky though. Its important to torque the exh. manifold nuts up to specs as if you don't you will break more studs. Its scary how loose the torque specs are, it felt like only just past finger tight. Bl4ck32 when doing his also commented on the lack of torque required.

Out of curiosity.. Which stud went? I've seen a few rb's where the cyl one and two studs go before the rest. Was it shaun u spoke to at Boostworx or the new bloke I saw there a week or so ago?

and.. So it pretty much sums up your question Luke.

Allow for more reliable high rpm power. Apart from that without the crank the displacement will stay the same.

erm.. old aussy cars don't stop.....

Turbine A/R? Would you be so kind as to post up a pic of the turbine wheel/wastegate?

I've seen one in a mag years ago that had the ol' RB30ET.

Al, yes... I'm still in the process of building mine up slowly, priority's change when little bubs come along. With regards to 100% complete.. I was suggestiong did you end up going through with the engineering process Kym?

What car/pfc Ben? If its an rb25 then I've seen power readings from around 180rwkw right up to 210rwkw using up to load point 16. 220rwkw pushes load point 17 that interpolates with 18. Its damn close to 18. Close to 180rwkw is where I saw my std AFM maxing out.

So the 'upgrade' package is 100% complete? I remember some years ago before Julie had the bubs you were telling me about it.

Would work quite well and be damn quick. Tell us more, is it in fantasy stage or have you moved from fantasy to getting the block, head etc?