Cubes

See the RB30 sticky thread. Questions are answered there..

Bigsully84, That block is perfect.. As you can see the right stud hole has a flat machined area. The blokes that don't have this simply have a hole with no flat machined area.

More questions..... Where is (rpm) power made fall off etc? Cam specs?

The most important part of the rb30 block for our twin cam conversions I think is the lack of a machined surface to mount the tensioner on. Looking at the front of the block you will see two drilled and tapped holes where the tenioner studs screw in to. Both must have a flat machined surface. I believe its the series 1 blocks that don't have the right tensioner location machined flat. I've got pics some where of what to look for. Don't go off what car the motor came out of, these cars are old now and often than not you will find a series 1 with a series 2 motor but a series 2 with a series 1 motor.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant...&coolantFlash=1

Max's S15 was definitely quiet......

Andrew.... Where's your Mug shot?

Very nice.. Congrats.. What turbo specs are you running?

Friday 11th Practice - Cars Only Saturday 12th S.C.C. Twilight Races Sunday 13th S.C.C. Twilight Races I assume SK is down for the S.C.C Twilight Races? I will be heading down to check it out if SK is down in Adelaide.

lol... Might be able to come to an agreement with this resistor pack wiring. lol...

Going by the front cover and compressor wheel. There is no step up from the snout to the comp wheel.

If those pics are of that turbo, its not a rb25/vg30. Its a VG30DET turbo.

Maybe on the RB20's SOHC head.

Are you 100% sure its headflow/cam related. Does it have a really nice equal length manifold? Run a crap manifold and you WILL see top end power fall over early. Roy's RB20DET running the TD06-20G is an extremely good example of this, power holds up really really well compared to other 20t's. The only real difference appears to be the exhaust manifold.

I am after the GIO all red GTR from 1990. U bugger getting the winfield one... thats quite hard to come by. The model shop in Marion has a nice looking all grey std GTR. Money too be spent else where at the moment though.

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm Why not look at a cheapish brand spanker. The GT28RS should make 200-220rwkw with some decent boost.

Awesome.. Now drop that 3ltr in and make us up a strut brace for the front, one that is positioned in front of the t/b to suit the extra height of the 3ltr. You will have to use some sort of flat steel pipe though?!?

Here's my little beasty. Cost $80 though..... Are there any R32's down at the BP?

I should meniton... All baby seats fit the skyline but the Safe & Sound Compaq was the only one that fit when you had it in the capsule position.

Thats 195rwkw.. Not too bad. What boost are you running? Any chance of a dyno sheet, I'm keen to see the power delivery.

Increasing engine size doesn't make more power, UNLESS the old motor was a little tired. Increasing engine size under the same head will simply scrunch up the power band (make it shorter) and shift it to a lower rpm. The only time it will make more power is if you help it breath easier. A good example of this is my rb20 -> rb30 experience. The stock turbo on my RB20DET made 164rwkw with 12:1 afr's and 15psi. The stock turbo on my RB30DET with the better flowing rb25 head made 176rwkw with 12:1 afr's and 9psi. The RB20DET got up and started pulling hard at ~3500rpm all the way to 7000rpm, I would slightly over rev it to around 7200rpm as it felt and timed quicker doing so. The RB30DET with the same turbo got up and went hard from idle but was wanting you to change gears as 4000rpm approached, reving it to 5000rpm made it feel as if you were screaming it. The bulk of the torque was up to around 3500rpm, after that you could really feel it fade off. At the moment it is very badly suited to drift, the power band is too short and it won't hold a slide over reving, power drops off to quickly causing wheel spin to simply fade off. There's no throttle control holding the car sideways as the road speed too high for the gearing that requires you to select the next gear. Hope that makes sense... Its very much like driving a turbo diesel. Turbo diesels are not good for drifting.

lmao. RB30ET 150fwkw on 91RON, No IC, 6-7psi + crap exhaust. RB20DET 160fwkw on 100RON, IC, 9psi + an ok exhaust considering its stock. How does that qualify the rb20det making power easier thanthe rb30et? VL's make awesome power with very little mods. A friend of mine has one that was purchased completely stock bar a 2.5" exhaust. He fitted up an AVO fmic and dialed in 14psi, by peak power it made 187rwkw and boost had tailed off to 11psi. So thats 187rwkw using 11psi.. Pretty damn good. R33 RB25DET's running 11psi, pfc, exhaust, and fmic's were making slightly more power being ~190rwkw. Check out the SAU dyno day thread. So you 'drifters' never see rev's past 5000rpm??? Thats what it will be like with an rb20det head, hell with the rb25 head it appears unles syou start doing some serious mods your not going to see peak power made and held decently after 5800rpm.

Measurements were the same... Casting marks were different.

If there's no knock then chances are you were hitting 100% duty.

Miller, the stock ecu sucks, they are not all equal. Nothing is wrong with his car.