Deano45

$150 delivered to sydney? You are in WA right?

he was also talking about using the line locker to load up the transmission and drive train to help get off the line at the 2nd staging lights . So that\\\'s 2 buttons (ok one is being moved to work off the clutch pedal) plus having to worry about the tree at the same time while all this is going on. Pretty complicated if you ask me, only gets better with practice. By the way, you need to change your signature now that you have run a 11.1. Well done on that

<br /><br /><br />It\'s more of the that fact that he needs to simplify what he needs to do to launch, so he doesn\'t have to call NASA every time he wants to take off. I believe he is working on getting the setup done for this now.

try http://www.boomproxy.com I've used this before to get to SAU when it won't load behind some proxy servers at sites that I am at.

Get another hard disk of equal size at least. This would be for backup purposes. You don\'t want to lose all those videos and things that you have on there. Also get some imaging software so once you get the system setup how you like, you can take an image of it rather than having to re-install from scratch, should anything happen.

Paul, have you got the car on the trailer already? as it's raining down here at the moment. Hopefully it fines up for Friday and the weekend for everyone to have a good drag meet.

vacuum cleaner to get most of the dust off with a brush to loosen it, then use carby cleaner on it.

Tomei make a hicas lock kit that comes with a electrical lock also. It simply disables the electronic circuitry to the remote actuators on the suspension and as a precaution, bushes are inserted at the actuators to stop them from moving. This way the hicas computer thinks everything is fine. I have one that I bought to go with the lock bar that I am going to put in.

Yeah you could be right, but the drain out of the turbo goes back to the block, So it should be contaminated too. When you start the car and leave it running, take the radiator cap off and see if there are any bubbles in the radiator. Are there any welsh plugs in the block between the oil and water galleries? One of these could be corroded. I wouldn't continue to drive it though, until you get it checked out.

The Roads Minister Michael Daley was on Nova this morning, saying that he was going to keep his promise of trying to get the points reduced for minor speeding offenses. Would like this politician to keep his promise as the demerit points for the minor speeding offense are ridiculous.

Hope it's not too serious Paul, get well soon. At least in time for Power Cruise.

sounds like you blown the head gasket

The picture looks like it explains it. Yes you need to get a tee for the bottom radiator hose. You can buy these for water temp sensors. You will then need to get a nipple that screws into it to attach a hose to. The top end looks like it sits between the over flow bottle and the radiator. the highest to the overflow bottle the lowest to the radiator. The other one can be capped off. Just make sure that you mount the top of it higher than the cap of the radiator so the air rises to the breather tank.

Have a look at nitto too. I believe CRD are now using them. Looking at putting one on my new engine as they are much cheaper than the others. Gearing made out of ball bearing steel. They apparently test flow each on a RB26 engine.

I agree with that^. As I said earlier go for a brand name, that will more than likely outlast the other ones and I would have no doubt that the materials used would be better too. Less likely to wear out the teeth or have the bolts seize.

Have a look around and see what you can get, tomei, greddy, jun, HKS Look at the traders on here, greenline, rhd, hi-octane, raw brokerage. The dollar sucks at the moment unfortunately. I know as I am going through an engine build myself at the moment. There might be a group buy on for them on here too. I would change your timing belt at the same time too, unless it is fairly new.

Get adjustable Cam Gears first. If you are going serious with cams then you should do the whole head (upgrade springs etc) to match the cams.

OK Lets start off with a few things 1) Do you have a budget? 2) What do you want to use the car for? 3) Is the car modified or stock? 4) Do you have a workshop or tuner that works on your car? These questions will help you work out which ecu to get. The first question is the big one as it will determine what sort of ecu you can afford. If you go searching through the for sale section there are always ecus of varying types available. Just bear in mind that if you purchase an ecu not are all plug and play, some need to be wired in to the loom. Also you need to make sure that the tuner that you have, can work on that ecu. One other thing to note, you shouldn't ask such a broad question, as with everything, everyone has there own opinions/impressions on different products.

Not from down there, but from what I hear Race Pace is quite good. They will be able to check out your tune to that it is right. It could be certain load points on the grid that need to be tweaked. They could re-do the tune from scratch if you can afford it too.

Just Jap

I would recommend a larger sump with baffles for this as it still uses the stock pickup although modified for the external pump. What you need to remember is that this is replacing the crank driven pump, so will help with the known weakness of cracking the drive on the internal oil pumps. The more oil that you have in the sump the better. I am having a guess but you should still do the other mods for oil control to the head (i.e. restrictor).

The LSD is a limited slip differential. The diff or diffs (in a GTR) have there own drain and fill up point, as the oil needs to be around the diff's crown and pinion wheels for lubrication.

no problems

Are you saying that the drive shaft does not slide into the hub fully (clover disk in your terms)? If this is the case, there should be splines on the shaft that line up with the hub, check that they do when you slide it back together.

Try using the search function 'Changing wheel studs' There are a few DIY Tutorials on this try this one