Deano45

Roy the one you are interested in only has about half the power of this one! You also need to be a contortionist to get in and out of the car They turned the boost up for that run too as it had new tyres. Glad it forced the leading cars to turn their wicks up too, so we could see their true potential and their absolute awesomeness.

On the Australian GT championship site it says that it was the 2006 British GT Teams Championship winner http://www.australiangt.com.au/driver_prof...elo_lazaris.php Send us some info on the car if you like and I can compare the specs for you.

Can I bring someone else down to share my car with who is not on these forums? I've already paid up for my spot.

It's a lotus Exige GT3 that runs in the Australian GT championship. Angelo Lazaris owns and drives the car normally. Fully homologated production car that runs the stock 2ZZ-GE but is now turbocharged instead of supercharged. Was only out there for testing as there is a round next week at Eastern Creek. When it started doing quick times, decided to run the wick up a bit and see if it could push the front runners. Reckon it could of gone quicker on a set of super soft dunlops. I was out there helping them with it for the meet. Was right next to Lofty's car which looks and sounds awesome.

If you are talking Australians, not that far away. Luffy in the Lotus is up there doing 1.33's If you are talking about Australians in Jap cars, then yes

I have some things for sale that are just sitting around and I don't need them. Most came off my car when I rebuilt the engine in it. I am willing to post/ship items at the buyers expense. I may negotiate price on some things in here, but as usual no silly low ball offers. Items: Turbosmart megasonic blow off valve $200 Comes with adapter pipe that was on my car for it. HKS R33 GTR Pod filter kit $70 Pair of Garrett GTR turbo chargers $800 These are steel wheeled, I was told that they are N1 turbos when I bought the car. There was no problems with them when on my car. I have put a brand new set on my car with the engine rebuild. Pair Garrett Wastegate Actuators $250 Brand new. Took these off my new turbos to install some HKS ones. RB30 Water pump $90 This went on my car when I did the 100,000K service. I only ran the motor for about 400KM before I decided to do the rebuild. OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch $600 Came off during rebuild. Wasn't slipping when I was using it, but needs a rebuild as the friction pads are nearly worn down to the rivets. You can get rebuild kits for these clutches. Push type clutch Stock R33GTR dump pipes $50 Bosch 040 fuel pump $200 Brand new. plastic unopened.

Wastegates are internal on the turbos hence there are 2. You can upgrade the actuators. These control the wastegates. They are removable and can be replaced with adjustable ones. Garrett and HKS ones both fit. There are probably other ones you can get, that will fit.

Full Name: Nathan Dean Car Type: R33 GTR Newb or not: newb Most recent lap time if not newb (can be another track if necessary but make sure you mention which one): # of Drivers:1 # of Passengers & Name:0 Been hanging to do one of these, now that my car is ready. Funds have been transferred. Can we get a wakefield license on the day or can this be purchased beforehand?

Haltech have developed a platinum pro version for the R35, but I believe most of the guys on here use a cobb access port to tune the stock ecu Link to cobb product

The factory manifolds are quite good. I have kept them on my car and have heard of a lot of other cars doing the same. If you are handy with a die grinder, you port match them on both the turbo and engine sides. you then get them ceramic coated. For a bit of an extra gain, you can get them extrude honed too. I did the first 2 things, when I changed my turbos during my engine rebuild. edit: forgot to add that they are a cast item, so are not likely to crack either.

CRD had to adjust the TPS, Attesa system needed further bleeding and the reservoir then needed topping up. Car is running nice now with the run in tune on it too. Now to put some km's on the clock before the final tune.

Attesa is now fixed. I took it to CRD and got them to look at it the same time as I got it tuned. When I found out what Jim had to do tomorrow, I'll post it up.

go to superlap.com.au and the prices are there. If you order them online before the 13th you get a discount on entry. no idea on hotels around there.

Yeah but you can get an Unregistered Vehicle Permit (UVP) that allows you to drive an uregistered vehicle on the road RTA UVP Link

Where abouts in Melbourne are you located?

Are you sure you are not prepared to ship them? I really only need the rims too.

GB = Gearbox

Taken straight from a website as I couldn't be bothered typing an explanation: You say you are running 10PSI, is your BOV adjustable? and at what RPM does your car hit the 10 PSI? it's a matter of adjusting the BOV so it justs holds you required pressure, but will open when the throttle is closed and the BOV senses vacuum.

Normally your mechanic will know someone that does them or Ring the RTA on 13 22 13 for your nearest AUVIS.

There's 3 options to look at: 1) Go to a workshop that has built a tried and true setup. If they are willing to build a car for you with this setup, you may get out of it cheaper. 2) Going your own direction with your own ideas. Then you will not only need to factor in building the car, but setup and fine tuning to get near your goal. There is a lot of time and money spent in R & D to get a car to go fast consistantly. 3) Go and buy a car that is near or close to your goal and develop from there. Normally this would be the cheapest route. For all of your will also need to factor in the breaking of parts along your journey to get there, plus the driver too. The driver plays a big part in this. It's easy to blow $150k on a race car just in the build setup and testing alone.

http://www.nitto.com.au/ under where to buy area

Make sure that you get the crank collar too, it's a necessity to help prevent failure of the drive gear on the pump.

You're right in saving on labour, as both are basically an engine out job unless you want to drop the whole from cradle. I use and recommend the nitto as do other people on these forums. They are quite cheap for a reliable oil pump. Make sure regardless of what pump you do, you get a crank collar as well, plus oil restrictors in the head What do you plan on doing with your car?

If that is too much for you then I suggest that you don't find out the pricing for a JUN or Tomei then!!! Nismo is N1 Just like the water pump and engine block variants. They are the motorsport arm of Nissan.