Deano45

I haven't really looked into it, but something like that could work using a solenoid as I think it pressurizes it when you turn the ignition to acc. Maybe a switch could be rigged up to activate a solenoid to block the line to the transfer case before the car is turned on?

The 33GTR attessa system if different and you can't just switch from 4wd to 2wd with a switch. You can use a torque split controller but this doesn't fully isolate the rear wheels and isn't good for the transfer case. The proper way to do it is to remove any pressure from the attessa system so that there is no transfer to the front wheels. examples of cars that do this is the heat treatments GTR and Godzilla Motorsports GTR that have a manual pump system to pressurize the transfer case. There is some combo that you are meant to be able to do, to de-pressurise the transfer case for towing (can't remember it off the top of my head) but it would be a pain in the ass to do on the drag strip.

Give Rocket Industries a call

What version of Windows are you running? Basically what you need to do is take ownership of the folder, then give yourself full rights to it. In a nutshell, Normally you right click on the folder, go to the properties of it, go to the security tab, click on the advanced button, go to the owner tab, add your new account as the owner (it may give you a warning about replacing the ownership), once this is done, close the windows and go back to the security tab, add yourself to the list and give it full control. You should now have access to the folder. Edit: Desktop folder is located in your profile folder under c:\documents and settings This is based on Windows XP but should be similar in Vista.

When choosing one, it all comes down to how heavy the package is, where you want it to go to and how soon you want to get it there. Basically the heavier, further and sooner you want it there the more you pay. Take all this into account when calling them, some will want to know the size of the package too.

Does the push type gear bolt straight in to the 33 Gear Box? The reason that I ask is that I currently have the OS Giken pull to push converter in my 33 GTR as I used to have a OS Giken twin plate, I am looking at removing this and buying the 32 GTR push type components to install into my box to work with my new NPC twin plate that I am getting. any help appreciated.

In one word no, even though you can split to more of the torque to the rear wheels, it doesn't make it rear wheel drive. It's a good way to destroy your transfer case doing this! This has been covered before for people wanting to run their 33 GTRs on a 2WD dyno. The torque split controllers do exactly that, control your torque split to the front wheels, not turn it completely off. The 33 attesa system is completely different to the 32 one. What you might have seen is one with a modified transfer case that they manually using a hydraulic pump ie apply pressure to the case ie no pressure 2 wheel drive, pump the pressure up and you have 4 wheel drive. The only way you can truly get it into rear wheel drive only without modifying anything is to pull the front drive shaft out. Unless you are going to use drag radials or slicks then I wouldn't bother

Malware bytes (free version, no need to upgrade to the paid one) and Spybot S & D Both are quite good. I recently have found Malware Bytes to be better in picking up things that Spybot doesn't. Use a combination of both and between them they should pickup everything. If these don't fix the problem, then you start to go into the territory on looking at the registry and using a program like hijack this to analyse what has been set to start from the registry. You need to be careful with this though as you can kill the computer if you don't know what you are looking for.

Is your 33GTR a V-Spec? If it is what did you do about the rear active-lsd diff? I'm trying to find out if there is a mechanical replacement you can buy. I am trying to work out if I need to replace it with a non V-Spec one that still has the ABS sensors to be able to install a mechanical LSD.

Do you know what width and offset they are?

Hi Christian, Ok this is from the proxy server log of a site that I have that still has the problem accessing the website I'm not a website guru so I hope this helps. This is just trying to get to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com from a machine behind the proxy. IP address is a private internal one so it doesn't matter that you can see it. Apr 29 19:25:20: 10.111.111.11 - - "GET http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/ HTTP/1.1" status=302(Found) size=310 CACHE MISS Apr 29 19:25:21: 10.111.111.11 - - "GET http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php? HTTP/1.1" status=301(Moved Permanently) size=407 CACHE MISS Apr 29 19:25:26: 10.111.111.11 - - "GET http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/home.html HTTP/1.1" status=200(OK) size=4245 CACHE MISS Nathan

OK I've spoken to the company that we deal with for our internet appliances (firewall, proxy etc) that we use. I asked him about the error that I used to experience and why it now works for me. This is his response: So for people who have this problem, it looks like it is how your proxy server deals with the broken HTTP 1.1 requests. Sometimes it might not be the proxy server at your work end, some ISPs also use a transparent proxy (TPG is one that I know of that does)

I've run into this problem before at sites with proxy servers and believe it is the way that it handles the code from the website. It seems to have fixed itself with an update that has been pushed out to the firewall appliance we use. To get around it I was using GPass at one stage but that seems to be broken (well it stopped working for me) and then I started using a site called http://www.boomproxy.com This got me around the problem of at least being able view the site and browse. Some of the scripting doesn't seem to work through it though, but good enough to browse, read and reply to topics. I'll try to find out what was updated on the proxy server side of things to try to work out why this is happening with the website.

Found one.

A dead one? $150 lol It's OK I've found one.

I am after a dead Stock GTR ecu or even a working one that is going cheap. It doesn't matter what model. Need it for the casing. thanks

So could you use a steam cleaner safely on these? or would I be better using some carby cleaner on them? I'm looking at removing the carbon build up around the throttle bodies while I have them off the car at the moment.

I am after a dead Stock GTR ecu or even a working one that is going cheap. It doesn't matter what model. Need it for the casing. thanks

Bahco is a pretty good brand. They must rate their kit if it has a lifetime warranty like some of the other leading brands (kincrome and sidcrome). What is it that your friend is after? is it just a basic tool kit like in the link you posted? Crescent is another decent brand to be looking at, that is not on the too expensive side.

Don't know about Melbourne, but there is bond roll bars in Sydney that make kits up either bolt or weld in. Bond Roll Bars

pm sent

Definately going with the Spec-R types (dual solenoid) but I want to know if the SBC I-D is worth the extra money. This is not the i-Colour bling version that I am talking about. I remember reading something from URAS on the fact that the i-Colour was too gadgety. Is your one brand new that you have?

Jin_Man, Paul has been sent to Queensland for work at the moment, and has been quite busy with this and other things while he is up there. What stuff are you waiting on from him? He's due back home early next week so will probably get back to you then. Don't worry you will get your parts.

I'm tossing up between these two on which one to get. From what I have read on them, they seem to have very similar specs (correct me if I'm wrong) What's the main differences between them? Does the I-D control the boost better or able to bring the boost on sooner with it's curve and gain controls? Is the SBC I-D Spec-R worth paying the extra for? I'm after people who have used either of these and how they find the functionality of them.

Do you still have these available? I need them to fit over the standard brembos on my 33GTR.