Deano45

They are called sheer bolts, the head snaps off when you tighten them up. Just Jap sell them Sheer bolts Or try Nissan spare parts

Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out

The line pushes inside the teflon joint, so normal vacuum line wont fit. I'll try to post up some more pictures tonight when I get home.

This is the line that I am missing:

I have a Blitz SBC ID Spec R boost controller and am missing the teflon line that gets teed from a vacuum line into the control unit (i am assuming this is for the map sensor). Does anyone know where I get buy some replacement line from? I have been trying to work out a way to join the teflon line from the back of the control unit to normal silicone hose. Will this work? Any help appreciated.

Yeah that's correct. Thanks for the link. I have never seen the car run on a track. Hoping to see it run at the homebush round.

My Bad, I misunderstood the classes. I didn't read whiplash's original post properly about the production class. The car I am talking about is the Elise GT3 car in the championship not production class. Go the GTR in production class

No, Still Toyota

Seen the exige up close quite recently, real nice car. I know the Chief Engineer. Watch out for it, they have done something special to it.

What secrecy? Just because you can't find them in google, doesn't mean anything good or bad about them. You now know they are from CRD, how about you send them an email or a PM on here, or even get the time zones right and call them. and for the record, I have one on my engine because Paul recommended it. We had a look around for the tomei or jun pump at the time but with the exchange rate, they were too expensive. Looks like a good choice so far for other people. There is no such thing as a bullet proof component. If you are worried about your engine failing then don't drive a car or just baby it around. There are things you can do to help give you peace of mind, but at the end of the day there is a chance that something may fail.

PM sent

Seeing you are new, I suggest that you get used to using the search function. There are plenty of topics/debates on peoples opinions on what turbos to run. I suggest that you don't pick a number for power and then build to that. Have a look at what you want to do with the car, then work from there. Remember that higher the HP that you want to make, normally the higher the rev range that the turbos start to come on, so you will end up with a big lag monster. Tough you may be happy with that. Having a big budget to help get around this with headwork and cams will help. Have a look on websites such as Garrett and HKS with their suggested power rating for turbos and start from there.

I went with a nitto pump on my engine, didn't want to take any chances with an N1 r33_racer how did you manage to post in the future?

Interested in what computers people going to be running with their RB20? I'm looking into running the stock one with nistune on it for my motor.

no it does not from factory, if you follow the 2 outlets hoses at the back, on top of your cam covers, they will return back to the engine if stock. If you have a catch can, the 2 outlets hoses will go to it Generally speaking.

Charlie, I would suggest you use the search function as both of these have been covered quite recently. The multi throttle body rb26 plenum is not a direct bolt on fit but thge head can be modified to make it fit. There are forward facing plenums that you can buy to replace the stock plenum. I remember reading a topic recently on someone who created a how to with photos on it.

nice build thread. I can't wait to start getting my engine assembled again (not as extreme as yours though) Are they your old cam covers on there atm, so you don't want to damage your power coated ones?

For that kind of money you are looking at, you could get a motor built including sump and oil control mods and then look at an aftermarket computer to tune the engine properly.

Have you tried ringing an exhaust place or a company that sells turbos?

Get a nismo or tomei one designed for the GTR. They bolt straight in and give increased flow compared to the standard one. If you decide to get serious later on, you can leave it in place as a lift pump and look at putting in a surge tank with a larger pump again.

Or the system needs to be bled

Thanks for that

I take it that you have had the car engineered with the new engine, otherwise that's a big defect in itself. If that's the case get the blow off valve engineered too. If you don't have it engineered then you have more to worry about then having a cop slap a defect on you for a blow off valve. If you make up custom housings for the AFM's they need to be the same inside diameter for the resolution to be the same, so take this into consideration. Other Option would be to change the ecu to one that supports a MAP sensor.

Paul is your pressure switch hooked up to a relay that kills the fuel pump or ignition? I've had one of the Nitto pumps installed in my rebuilt motor. Yet to run it up yet, but will soon have an idea on them myself. I also had a sump extension installed as well. I'm planning on taking my car to the track when it's ready. I'd read some good things about these pumps. I'm planning on taking my car to the track when it's ready.

You can move it but its not a simple thing to do. You would need to go to a brake place and get them to re-run the hard lines from the ABS to the brakes. You would also need to modify/extend the electrical connections to it too.