blitza

Hey sorry for the late reply. Here are more photos. The car was tuned and dynoed with a standard cat on, and it severely cut the power. I have since put on the highflow. Power should be around 250rwkw @ 15psi. I rarely check SAU, so feel free to email me with any questios at [email protected] or check out the ad on carsales.com.au. just plug in the rego into the keyword section - 550 JDQ. More photos to come.

Interior and Exterior in excellent condition. I'm the first owner since arrival from Japan, this car has never broken down on me in the 3 years I have owned it. If it is continued to be looked after it will serve its new owner very well. Unfortunately I have to sell my pride and joy to save for a trip overseas. Please give me a call if you are after any more information. 0418 158 442 Mods: HKS3037 Pro S turbo kit (awesome induction noise) HKS Type S oil cooler kit Greddy front mount intercooler kit Apexi Power FC tuned by Mercury Motorsport Bosch 040 Fuel pump Deatschwerks 440cc injectors Turbo back 3-3.5" exhaust system (inc Greddy dump, hiflow cat, HKS muffler) 19" Advanti racing rims (17" aftermarket rims that came with car also included) Tein adjustable suspension DBA 4000 series slotted Rotors x 4 Alpine MP3 Head Unit (w/glidetouch) JL audio front splits, running off Kicker 200.2 amplifier Kicker 12" solobaric L7 square subwoofer inside Kicker ported box, running off Kicker 750.1 monoblock amplifier

so.... If I have lowered tein coilovers on 19" rims, how would i properly eliminate as much camber as possible?? I bought some 'camber' arms for my car, and upon attempting to install them myself, I saw that there was another (upper control arm? sorry I dont know what bit is what) piece that I would need adjusted as well to be able to adjust the camber of my car. I hope that makes sense, but someone please help. What other part do i need to purchase to allow me to change the camber without effecting the toe (bump steer)? I know i will have to get a professional wheel alignment once everything is on and done

I got an Internal wastegated HKS 3037 low mounted, and it sounds like the turbo you are after. It sits pretty snug down between the manifold and the suspension tower i got about 250RWKW @ 15psi, it runs as rich as hell, I only get about 270Km's(if I'm lucky) to a full tank. I would like to up the boost to 18psi and get a retune to get somewhere up around the 280RWKW mark.... But thats when the credit card gets paid off... But I think 300RWKW would be easily achieved with some minor engine work , like cams.

sorry i dont know much about the work meisters. are they lightweight??

How come those prosecutors rejected your letters? What were their reasons? Please tell!

Yeah it sucks...It has to be re-engineered with a mod-plate. Until the mod plate is on pretty much everything is illegal

spotted a bright yellow 34 GTT on monday morning (around 07:30ish) waiting in traffic to get onto the M1 at Tarragindi. It was very nice.... It looked like a veilside kit on it.... If you are on here could you confirm?????

my stocker is sitting pretty at 15psi, it spikes up to 17ish psi, then slowly drops back to 15psi and holds all the way to redline...

If I had the money i would love to take the engine off you, but I'm currently in the red mate....

yeah mate, hold off. If the car is running fine(ish) then just hold off til you can afford the rest of the stuff. my recommendation for a turbo would be the HKS 2835 pro s kit. just my recommendation.

+1 for what cubes said. I think both.

If i got a trap speed of 111mph, does that indicate that I should be able to pull a 12??? When i got that speed i had some traction issues and my 60ft time was crapola. I have some nice and wide 19"s on now, and on the road traction feels better.... Going to the strip saturday and I'm eager to see my new times...

+1 with Dan. I'm running a standard bov on my turbo setup and idles correctly with PFC, holds boost at 15psi no problems at all and everything runs like a dream all day every day with 250rwkw. I would suspect a massive air(boost) leak in your system somewhere. i.e. bov stuck open, intercooler pipe blown off, etc...

there are two obvious signs I have come accross on various cars over my years: one would be shudder, i.e. if you are taking off from a standing start, with a small amount of revs (1-2K) the car gives a shuddering feeling another other would be when the clutch disengages when you are giving the car a kick in the guts, and the revs climb quickly like you are burning out but no power gets put to the ground. Hope that helps

I thought it was +35 on the front and +38 on the back as standard... But I could be wrong.

+1 for no problems with Deatschwerks. They are working great for me

if anything falls through for any reason let me know. It sounds great.

that momo looks like a subaru's momo!!!

Hey mate, Are these still available? If so, could i please get a price on the Tenzo GF7's in Hyperblack for an R34 GTT in 19"? +tyres option also pls thanks for your time, Steve P.M me if easier

while this is sort of on topic, does anyone know of a metal inside bolt on application for my 34?

It does well for me. Very noticable upgrade over a standand cat (which i had on with my turbo upgrade) I was looking for a metal cat but wanted one bolt on and couldnt find one, so i went with the Xforce, and it still did me well A lot less lag and generally more power throughout the whole rev range

I got a Bosch 040 for $200(I think, it was a while ago) and it does me well

mate you won't look back with the 3037. I can't be happier with mine.

yeah I love my 3037....