GTRPSI

So hard to judge a rim specs by looking at a picture. Best read some threads with pictures of the wheels fitted with wheel specs.

Thats why i wrote it, id rather say the truth and let you know i am biased, i could have said nothing, but i know the product and how good it is and stand by it. Tested and supplied many people racing various motor sports classes with them without issues, on the street they are fantastic, drifters, rally drivers, street track cars etc. And as many people who use them tell me, the best bang for buck performance pad out there, people who have been racing for decades still demand them.

This is a very important thing, not only does it pull heat out when hot but it also speeds up getting oil temps higher when cold. Key point being you want oil and water temps about even. Im surprised by the amount of people who remove them and just run a external cooler, with or without a thermostate, the factory heat exchanger will help warm up the oil quicker. One cheap way to know if the thermostate bypass is open is to feel the feed hose to the cooler on a cold day, if its warm and the return pipe is cold, you know its stuck open.

If your not pulling the fuse to totally disconnect the front from the rear you must have the same circumferance tyres front and back. We will also be running M/T Et streets on the stock wheels, TE37SL are for sticky street rubber with a little more life in them than drag radials.

Yep, thats my advert, they are the ones. Made in Spain by Lucas. QFM are now made in Asia after talking to their agent a few months ago. (and for a while now but kept quite in the industry), cannot rember if he said Malaysia or Indonisia or other, but it was not china.

Interested... Shoot me a txt on 0411184963

TRW Pads... They have been around and known around Rally and track circles from the early 80's, heat cycle them 3 times and they become a serious track pad. We know of a few rally privateers still running them today, they refuse to run anything else. On my sons S2000, he had them and loved them, last pad change i upped him to EBC Red Stuff ceramic, many more $ extra and his says the TRW were better and he wants them back on the next pad change.

If the clearances are not setup right, dont blame the pistons for being forged, blame the machinist. In our case we friction coated the pistons too, not for slap, more to help side loads under higher boost pressures. If running them on the loose side expect piston slap issues, some brands are more prone to it than others, i have not looked into if it was the recommended clearances being loose from the piston manufacturers or the design/contruction/material of them or skirt length/design.

Car is at the panel shop getting work finished so they are not on our car ATM but they came off the R32 GTR below, there is a pic inside the sale thread in the first post. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/431823-r32-gtr-parts-te37s-sl-18x105-n1-oil-pump-dry-sump-tank-nismo-260kmh-speedo-high-power-ign-coils/?hl=%2Bte37#entry7192422

Stock intercooler is good for over 400Kw We just bought some 18 X 10.5 +15 and have rolled the guards, ive heard of some people going 11, not sure about how well they would fit without rubbing. If your drag racing keep the stock wheels and get some M/T Et street rubber on them, if you like aftermarket wheels put something else on for daily street use and throw the M/T on for strip use.

Factory boost control soleniod.

Helical cut without a billet sandwitch plate and rated to 500Kw? And i thought it was torque that killed them..... I like the "we have seen up to 500Kw with these gears sets", hell ive seen that on stock boxes too, like the stock ones, dont know how long they would last though. Seen the No Returns policy? Unproven, i wouldnt want to be the test dummie.

Why are you worried about piston slap with forged pistons? Once the engine has been running for a minute or 2 its all gone. If your planning on drag racing and street with only 300Kw a stock bottom end will do just fine. The RB30 bottom end will give you the bottom end power you need without resorting to higher compression ratios, just dont put large duration cams in.

It was.. Now having experianced it, they are too well electronically sorted, a angry RB in my books anyday. I cannot understand spending 500K on something that wont violently scare you, id rather feel a 30-60K 32,33, 34 GTR shake and twitch under power like its going to bite you than have onboard computers give you a clean clinical drive. Got out and realized the same power or less in a heavier Skyline can be violent, you have to drive and to some degree fear the car, not the computers drive it for you. You want to have a car that scares you for the adrenalin rush, MP4-12C roadster just didnt do it for me, felt detracted from the impression of power by the electronics. Sure it wont be as quick but a angry RB will get your heart pumping.

Exactly I spent part of today in a Mclaren MP4-12C, i can tell you if it lays the power down well like the Mclaren, even 441Kw can get boring after a while. Something with big cams and a big turbo hit of power can feel far more quicker and scarier, even though it wont be doing 0-100 in under 3 seconds......

You push high power, you will be constantly finding the limits of parts, driver sympathy plays a major role in saving boxes. Be gentle and it may last to some degree, be a brute, expect to be changing boxes often. We bought a newly refurbished Trust/quaife 6 speed dog box, does not guarantee anything, all it takes is a hard lauch on sticky rubber and it could break a input shaft in a blink of an eye. If you want something as good as it gets try a PPG gear set or part with the cash and go Hollinger.

3 leggers work fine too. Comes down to the gauge of steel used and welding. I have 2 with 3 legs, one i bought 32 years ago for V8 builds, thick as anything, craps all over all the 4 legged ones ive seen that are from China. RBs may not be heavy, but the fact they are long adds weight over the end thats not tied down, in the end there is more force than some V8s on the stand.

What lift and base circle cams? Have you got the thicker buckets or just thicker shims? Shouldnt have valve float with double springs....but if you dint use the thicker buckets with a smaller base circle cam, theres your first problem, it will spit out shims.

Yes, we must act our age (40-50), we dont race, we dont line up anyone, both myself and Scotty have lawn bowls hats in the back of our cars and drive super slowly in totaly stock 1.3L push rod Corollas. We only believe in E85 because we are trying to save the planet.

Try a ebay electric fan turbocharger, being twin turbo you will get double the boost if you use 2 of them. To the OP, without trying to be rude, use the search tab and spend a few nights/weeks/months reading, the web is full of all the info you need......its all open info, no secrets....

If hes local and you know where he is, go pay him a old school visit and sort it out. Make sure there are no witnesses.... Got to watch some people on forums, we only had 1 bad trade experiance, ended up sending a GTR badge to someone here a while ago and the guy made claims about it, a mod got involved and backed him up as being a mate and never lieing (yeah right), if i ever cross paths with the bullshit artist buyer at a meet, its not the $, its the principal....Not just buyer beware, its seller beware too. Quite often second hand parts being sold here end up being in a condition where they should have been binned, cams with rust pits on them etc, if anything ive learned now is to either go in person to check out the goods or buy new. Not having a go at the forum, just passing on some logic for others not to get burnt, there are heaps of idiots on both sides of the trader fence, if you cant pick it up and look at it, pay on the spot, walk away with it, beware, you dont know who you are dealing with, one mans treasure could turn out into another mans trash or scam.

Uppers are the way to go. Those oil restrictors, if rebuilding i dont knock the new ones over the old, i pull the old one out, you would be surprised how much gunk collects under them, i knock the new one in after cleaning the block.

Connect it to your 2" exhaust, will work better.

Its NA, there is NO boost to measure. If it goes negative, you can measure vacuum, thats about it. This has to be a troll post.....

So its designed to flow at high RPM at the expense of bottom end torque. Full Race ported heads genrally have poor low speed velocity flow. Saying race head can be very vauge as mentioned, a mild clean up without opening runner size would be far better suited to a street application. One mans race head and anothers are totally diffrent. Are they deshouding the valves by removing some of the quench pads?