R.3.2.G.T.R

nooo, i have read few comments in regards to this, which shows up my rear wheel uneven-ess as its pretty flush to the guards, does the subframe allow for any adjustment?

another Q, will solid pineapple (alloy slip-ons) be effective in locating the subframe to the chassis correctly?

thanks for the diagnosis, that may explain why my passenger side rear wheel sits 5mm further out than the right side if i were to buy bushes, whats a better type/option to purchase and is solid ones really that noisy? also whats a reasonable amount to expect a workshop/suspension joint to do the work?

dont waste your money on a 2nd hand one, just buy new from nissan, around $100

been mucking around underneath the car and noticed the rear subframe has a gap on the bottom, tried looking for some pics but nothing clear to confirm is the gap normal and the rear subframe looks ok apart from surface rust? been thinking of using some pineapples to further stiffen things up

any update on this?

im assuming this is in reference to Max-Gear which is suitable for diffs (75W-90, 75W-140, 85W-140 1quart bottles) for gearbox i only see Synchromax listed but no info on the weights available also cant find anything on Max-Gear being suitable for LSD

what oil u using now?

curious if this issue got resolved with new bushes?

sweet, i think ill go the following Front Diff - Castrol Syntrax Transaxle & Manual Transmission Fluid - 75W-90 Rear Diff - Castrol SAF-XA Limited Slip Rear Axle Oil - 80W-140

for 32R diffs, is there a difference in oil used between front and rear diff i see CASTROL EPX 80W/90 is recommended by Castrol however other threads also recommend Castrol SAF-XA Limited Slip Rear Axle Oil - 80W-140 (apparently due to different conditions between Jap and Aus)

report to admin mate

im after the U shaped rubber pipe on top of the engine (at the back) and U shaped bracket that holds the centre console box from underneath

u got adjustable actuators? it might have been re-adjusted previously to run higher boost as stock, try lowering the gain until spiking stops

check your powersteering fluid level, hard accel may be triggering the low level sensor

for injector tick noise, test it by reving the engine slightly from the engine bay and letting go, if the noise stops momentarily when u let go, its injectors as it shuts off

how much $$ was this? im assuming 3 litres

bump

nvmd, all sorted, popped the fuel cap and pressure release helped

In the midst of changing over the fuel tank seal, taken out the fuel pump fuse and started the car till it stopped Taken both plugs out and went to remove the left side hose (incoming arrow) and quite a bit of fuel is coming out of the tank (not the rubber hose) Is this normal, tank is almost empty?

should be straight swap over

have a set of KU31 255x40x17 tyres that have been on the car for around 5-6k no camber wear or puncture holes, no longer needed as i have bought bigger rims with tyres $400 for the set firm - better than nankang or linglong for that money pickup only as i cbf sending it interstate, western syd must be gone by this weekend

Yeah 300-320kw out of both -7/-9 easy, -5 is a good option is u have a rebuilt motor as u can push it harder than u would want with stock For reference I'm running gtss, full boost by 3800rpm @ 18psi, pulls very linear all the way to the limiter

hmm I can understand the rev jump up due to clutch slip but was causes the revs to drop under full throttle without gear change? my clutch fluid which is normally clear appears more murky now, not sure if that's an indication of anything Also there's a lil leaks near the front propshaft knuckle What's the seal called?

soo had an awesome day out at sau drags at wsid, however had issues with clutch Running nismo twin plate coppermix that's about 10k old, clutch had been run-in properly as per instructions on the track, I was revving up to 6k or so prior to slipping it, although admittedly being a 1st timer, few launches were with clutch riding a bit longer than normal after 8 or so goes, times were getting worse, in 2nd/3rd gear full tilt, I can see the revs skip from 5k to 7k at which point I shift gear again Initially, when I was running down the track and hitting almost 7k, my revs were dropping back to 6k or so, before revving normally thru to 7k without any gear change Now I'm thinking either I killed the clutch discs or rear main seal has perhaps contaminated the clutch, currently the car struggles to pick any speed at all thru the gears so I limped it home Going to award diffs (who installed my clutch) and getting their opinion on the matter before getting them to remove the gearbox I'm thinking in replacing the rear main seal nonetheless, what else should I replace at the same time? Bloke in eBay is selling replacement clutch discs (x2) for my clutch so that might be the go Anything else I'm overlooking?