R.3.2.G.T.R

hard to say, u will need to drop the gearbox to have a look regardless, I had same issue few weeks back after drags, it was clutch wear but I still replaced rear main seal as a precaution

clutch slip perhaps due to oil contamination

mine is hitting 18psi at 3800rpm, cam gears adjusted, unknown cams

alright, can confirm with 99% accuracy that all wheels with slots at 12 and 6 with plastic spokes are latter models and all early model wheels with 11 and 5 are without plastic spokes, so far, i have found latter model wheels listed on cars dated 1992 november thats means my early model car has an latter model steering wheel installed, hence the hicas light, swap anyone??

ok, this is another pic i found thats different in few respects to the one i posted above, there are more screws around the centre hole and the slots are positioned at 11 and 5 whereas the above one is positioned 12 and 6, no plastic spokes either

this is mine on a early model car, although the wheel was bought 2nd hand of ebay, it does have plastic spoke at the back, not sure if that qualifies for an early or late model but i do have hicas light coming on after 10mins or so

thanks for all your help andrew, much appreciated

pm sent

It's most likely due to 250rpm increments it's looks more wavey than normal 500rpm increment

looking for someone with fc datalogit that can transfer my current tune from one pfc to another im out in pendle hill near parramatta let me know if u can help out

time for new turbos maybe an engine, drop cat as suggested, I wud stop driving it

tomei are the only ones making 3 way brace iirc, search for sale section or flea bay as I saw some for sale last week

what rpm are u seeing full boost at?

I'll take the carbon sills, also take the floor mats

got one from underneath?

are the tomei bovs venting to atmo?

dont worry to much about the km factor, have a good look at the car and under to ascertain its been looked after well, my vote would be r33 in this instance.. like its stated, its newer and while its not making as much power currently, it does have n1 wheels so can easily crack 300kw if needed

u planning on driving around with no speedo, if not, just buy a new speedo cable from nissan and it will fix both issues

+1, fitment looks great though

bump

http://otomoto.shop033.com/c/4073478/1/used-wheels.html

Built bottom end?

perhaps check with racepace in melb as i have read they re-valve, might also rebuild, otherwise stuck with fulcrum

I had read the pineapples use the good bushes to increase preload by squashing against them however the alloy rings can work with leaking/stuffed bushes Right/wrong?

in my scenario where the subframe is flat against the chassis on one of the sides, if i were to use the alloy rings despite the harshness, will it effectively correct the subframe positioning? from what i have read, if u put say a whiteline bush kit in and then proceed to put the alloy rings on top, it renders the bushes useless, as effectively only the alloy rings are being utilised? i would opt for the alloy rings however the proper bushes as an interim fix, and perhaps acquire a 2nd cradle to put bushes into in at my leisure