Emre

Here are a couple more.

Well, you can never be too safe can you...? What the user from my above quoted text was saying makes sense though. There is not much point in looking at peak vales. Put both basic knock and advanced knock in a chart and you will see they pretty much read very similar. There are some little discrepancies here and there, but gives you a better idea of the whole picture. Below is an example. The red is basic knock and the yellow is advanced knock. I will make another one for you with a broader log.

I wanted to check the same thing, but while logging data, my hand controller freezes and doesn't display or hold any values. On the other hand, while i had some high knock values under 'basic knock', there were no warning flashes coming from the dash.

It has access to ignition correction values for air temp, water temp, voltage, etc... Every Power FC has these correction tables, but they are not accessible with the hand controller. On the other hand, i have never touched mine, as they look pretty spot on with default values. For example (for the GTR Datalogit), upto 50 degrees intake temp, it uses the normal values from the ignition map. From 50 to 60 C, it starts taking out 3 degrees, between 60 and 70 C, it takes another 2 degrees (up to 5 all up) from the ignition map. In short, if your intake temps were 70 C, it would run 5 degrees less ignition. As i stated long time ago, the main advantage of the Datalogit as its name suggests, is to log data. Unlocked tuning parameters is just an added bonus.

It has always behaved that way. I remember asking the question and the answer from the programmers of the Datalogit was : There was also another input from a member who contributes regularly. .

If you've already modified it, why are you going to sell it as a stock example...? How are you gonna feel when you advertise your car as stock in 2 years time and i bring this thread back up...? If you are going to be dishonest, at least be smart about it. A decent exhaust is a bonus on any car bought. Enjoy your car for how long ever you will than advertise it as it stands. If it's still in good condition and passes the buyer's tests, you don't have to lie about anything.

BINGO ! Only reduce the gap if you are having problems with the standart 1.1 mm gap. With stockish boost, do not even bother. 0.6 mm for a bit of boost is ridiculous. IIRC, the heat setting for a stock GTS-T is 5, do not get colder plugs if you don't need to. Coppers are fine and cheap. You get a set of 6 for the price of a single iridium. Ask yourself why you need to spend x6 on spark plugs.

Common sense ??? WTF does that mean...? Are you calling all his senses common..? I would like to add some valuable input to this thread as well : If it's raining, do not go outside unless you are prepeared to get wet. If you are running low on fuel, go and fill up. In a most likely event, you will run out of fuel. If you just had a shower, put clean undies on. Dirty ones must be washed. Whatch out (is this a new term for clocking off ?)for some cars that like to rev alot and break into lots of wheelspin too. (EDIT: Damn it someone else mentioned ity already) Don't drive with your high heels on unless you are from Perth. Hope these help.

Good question ! Why did you change it to 0.8 mm when you had no problems with a larger gap...? Because it's something you read on the internet and thought was the best thing to do. Look, did you gap and change the plugs yourself...? What plugs are they..? Unless you have a dud plug in there for whatever reason, you shouldn't notice anything different.

One needs to ask the question why you want to do this... R33 and R34 gear ratios are : 1st : 3.214 / 3.827 2nd : 1.925 / 2.360 3rd : 1.302 / 1.685 4th : 1 / 1.312 5th : 0.752 / 1 6th : N/A / 0.793 You are basically going to have a very tall 1st gear (might be pretty useless if you don't change diff ratios) and squeeze another ratio in between 2nd and 3rd. Your 4th and 5th is pretty much equal to getrag's 5th and 6th. Is that really worth the estimated $10k...? (I'm thinking would even cost more than that) There are a lot of power mods you can do with those $$$. PS: You don't need the R32 final gear as yours is identical (4.11). R34 final gear is 3.54 and if you decide to change the rear diff ratio, the front one has to be changed as well.

Plug gaps are reduced when running high boost. Higher cylinder pressures with increased boost can blow the spark out without proper ignition. In reality larger gaps are more desirable as it gives a stronger spark. You should only reduce the gaps if/when having the above mentioned problem. In saying that, 0.8mm is not too small of a gap and you shouldn't notice any difference. If you do like you are stating, open the gaps upto standart settings. You do not need a re-tune.

Hmmm... legalish... Is that when things are not legal but also not illegal as well...? What sort of criteria are we looking at to decide, if a turbo is legalish or not...?

Oh bro, thanks for the tips man. So, i shouldn't dive into driveways @ 40 kmh. I should watch out for idiots pulling in front of me, coz my cast iron block ruins my tyres. Must get harder compound tyres. I shouldn't attempt to drift with the Hicas enabled. Can i put a switch to it bro, so i can turn it off when i wanna drift. Again, must get harder compound tyres. I shouldn't change anything on the standart setup or be prepeared to change more than one thing. Thanks again bro, your words of wisdom really helps. This should be a sticky. OH also, i must not accelerate around corners in wet.

Yeah mate... Well above 100 degrees with stock cooling system. I did 12 laps though.

You can re-initialize the PowerFC with the hand controller and it will return to your default settings. All the locks that were on it will be gone. Turn the ignition off and on for it to take effect. If you know someone with the Datalogit software, he can remove the locks for you by un-ticking the protected areas as SydneyKid mentioned and your old tune won't be effected. Datalogit also has a 'tuner string box' which i believe is a feature of the original Apexi Software, but it's highlighted and can't be accessed.

All is well at my end mate, thanks. But... Two camels...? WTF...??? I don't want to offend the bloke. :lol:

That's not the tired look mate, They look like tears to me. One of the very few times i shed a tear was when mine were born as well. PS: Beatiful girl Snowy.

Consider her taken, I have 3 grooms for you to choose from in the future. Ring me for further negotiations. :lol: :lol: :lol: PS: Congrats and well done once again.

You are right. For some reason when the timing belt was mentioned, i went to cam timing mode. The question wasn't about the cam timing, but i thought it was. The answer still remains the same.

Guys, Quickly skimmed over this thread and here is my advice : Do not fark with what you don't know. It's an expensive toy to experiment with if you happen to to get it wrong !!! It starts with altering a value here and there to see if it made a difference or not and by the end of the week, your tune is all over the place because you can't remember what you had done a few days ago, or what the original value was. If you feel confident, disregard this advice. Small corrections you make won't be that noticable on the road unless your tune was farked to begin with. Adding 5 degrees on light throttle will not give you an extra 100 kms out of a tank of fuel. Ignition can make the drive crisper but is not that detrimental to the fuel consumption. If your AFRsare in the 11s on light throttle, bumping the ignition to save fuel is not the right way to go about it. While the weather is cool you can get away with extra ignition, but don't forget the summer is around the corner. From what I've seen, default ignition maps are on the aggressive side to begin with and needs to be trimmed under load. Most noticable knock will occur as the torque peaks, which is (depending on car, turbo size, boost run, etc...) around N08-09,L08-10 for a stockish setup. AF correction is as the name suggests, Air Flow Correction and has nothing to do with the ignition map. It's for quick adjustment of your AFMs. The default value is 100 on all the voltages and if you changed that value to 110, at that voltage level your ECU will be compensating for %10 more air, thus running richer. If closed loop is enabled, any adjustment made on the fuel map is reduntant on light throttle, therefore if your O2 sensor/s are buggered this may be the cause of your poor fuel economy. If your ignition is not set correctly by the CAS (15 deg for GTS-T and 20 deg for GTR) the value shown on your hand controller is not correct to begin with. You maybe passing wrong info to others, in values to try. Knock sensors are a great tool to have from factory, but their sensitivity can be different from one car to another. What your tuner perceived as safe on your car may be dangerous on another. Well, sensitivity is the wrong word as they all should be calibrated the same, but the noises it picks up can be different in each car. Advancing the timing alters the duration the inlet valve opens at, the extra strain on the timing belt is not an issue. Lastly, you should also ask yourself, whether any huge improvement you notice is in fact a placebo effect or not. You make an alteration with expectations of a positive change and at times you feel the car drives much better when in fact it's not much different.

Righto, i was bit confused there. So your best mph with 306 awkw is 114.x mph. Your best mph with Bell tune which you think is 32x awkw is 117 mph. FYI, 117 mph has been done by many with stock turbos and 260 rwkw. My best with that power is 116 mph with 1700 kgs racing weight. No stirring ot bragging is intended.

Was that your highest mph for the night...? When did you run the 118 mph with what setup...? You gained 3 mph compared to a run with 313 awkw..? Is your clutch healthy...?

Someone had to take over from the SST brigade, didn't they ? You are getting offended by your own words. World leader has your trade mark on it. So, can anyone get a world leading build and performance...? Perth was too far to drive but Sydney is much reachable. Please do not leave SAU.

Contact Troy aka ylwgtr2. Click He is around the corner from the airport and the right person for the job.

You are a TOP bloke Rossco... !!!