BANGN

seems im loosing a bit of gb oil, does the gb have a rear input seal? I have done a auto to man conversion and i used a manual tailshaft against a automatic diff.. any ideas?" tis for R32 RB20 2 door

cheaper and less headf*k to buy a 33 imo

well it aint done it since and i just upped the boost, i was only on factory 33 actuator boost levels.. I just poped it up to 14 and its still fine.. ALLTHO my battery lost a cell 2 days later so im thinkn must of been a power issue

Do R32 GTST's have a boost fuel cut? My car did it twice this morning but it wont do it any more, I got to servo and found the positive termal wire was loose and i had to move it to get my car to start.

rears have been sold.. fronts and screamer still available

R32 Front Calipers - 4 Pot Good Condition Fit R32 GTST and I have heard this are sort after by R31 owners too $190 Perth PM ME R32 Rear Calipers - 2 Pot Good Condition Fit R32 GTST and I have heard this are sort after by R31 owners too $150 Perth PM ME Includes meaty Pads and all clips required to hold the pads in R32 - Screamer Pipe - Suits 25 & 20 turbos and bolts straight up. Great Sound, Stainless (but painted silver) Slightly modified (cut 3cm long angled tip off which angled at firewall so now it points straight down) $120 Perth PM ME

thanks mate. i had a look at dipstick and its 3-4mm overfilled on the stick so it would be safe to say its overfilled TOO MUCH? I know any overfilling is bad and iv only had the car moving for about 5 minutes so hadnt checked the fluids at that time after circulation.. so i guess 3-4mm over filled could be enough to cause this?

yeh they are slightly how much oil do they get from the breather system anyway? is it much or should it only be a couple of drops or so.. cos my other RB motor seems to have same effect on the compressor housing , i supose the turbo is suckn it in from the cam covers

I got the turbo off tonight finally and yeh im guna organse some new washers for it as they look a bit worn to be honest.. also probably remove the screamer as the leakage sound is guna get me a yellow licky i rekn but yeh getn the washers and some degreaser to get this silver antiseize off the turbo, there apears to be a bit on the turbo housing and al the exhaust man heat sheild bolts so il give it a good clean up and hopefully that will stop the smoking. then when its back together I can look at this blowby issue.

also how tight do the coolant and oil bolts need to be & done up? do they need to be at a certain tension? should i replace the washers and am I correct in there having to be a upper and bottom copper washer, thinkn i might need to do them too as i noticed a very very like bit of moisture around the washer but nothing that was seriously leakn, im unsure if those washers are like a wearing part.

i will take them tonight to be sure ay

thing is i dont see how i could get a breather setup muddled up, its all pre bent hoses, they only go on one way LOL

Just spoke to turbotech, very helpful. The oil there is basically blowby from the breather as the breather line runs down there BUT he sees that there is too much oil running down so its either its pressureising from the intake plenum and pushn it through or I have too much oil in it. How could I sort this out u think? im thinkn only way is a catch can but yeh il have to check the drain on the turbo too

im wondering if I should get new washers for the oil and water lines incase i have a leak somwhere cos i just used the old ones

i just looked at my old turbo and hte inlet looks the same on the turbo, a dark black pasty lining in there... maybe it is the bolts smoking from the silver antiseize paste :S its the stuff u get in the tins. it was white smoke but yeh unsure what it was exactly.. didnt really smell like oil or water, smel like it was guna be fire soon sorta hey turbo doesnt have shaft play it was fine when it was last

Tis a RB25 turbo, Iv only just put the Rb20 motor and rb25 turbo into my skyline, drove it for about 5 minutes and came home and did a check on the car to find SOMETHING was smoking from the turbo area, it didnt smell like coolant and it didnt smell like oil but it smelt like something was burning, i had antiseize on the exhaust manifold bolts and I thought that may of been the case until I took this picture.. I duno if this is normal but yeh i couldnt see where exactly it was comn from but it was smoking and was almost like not much longer and something would of cought fire what you rekn?

reverse lights are workn sweet.. Manual ECU is plug and play... i still had to bridge the inhibitor tho even with manual ECU.. was easy enough to do car is back together and running altho its missing, sounds like its almost missing a cyl sorta, its same with both ecu's. the motor i put in hasnt been used for almost 12 months so im going to swap over the spark plugs, coils and ignitor on monday from the motor that came out of the car and see if that fixes it.. also my headlights arnt working and combo switch aint working so i must of missed a wire somewhere... park lights work tho LOL but dam the car is lookn and soundn fat

so really it jsut needs to be on the hot side.. i think the previous owner had it on what looks to be a small vacum regulator at the back of the inlet manifold. so I take it short as possible to stop spiking?

its a rb25 turbo on it, from memory i thought i saw the hose go somwhere on teh intake side of the motor

where does the actuator line tap into? somwhere on the intake i imagine.. but where ? tis for rb20

LOL i aint boltn it there il find a dif spot

Manual GB in the RB20... there is a red hose that comes off the gearbox which clamps onto a small 1 bolt bracket with a metal pipe on it.. wtf is it and where is it ment to go? cheers Dan

pretty sure i found hte wire i need.. its a solid light green and a black on the auto loom, i chopped the solid green wire and green with white stripe off the manual box and i hooked it up so hopefully it works, i have to get car back togethjer to check.. i managed to ping the green and black and also a red which i asume is a comon power wire from the fuse box to the reverse globe in the rear of the car.. hopefully it works the reverse is the one closest to belhousing correct? what is the second one on the manual box then? do i need it?

I sent a pm to another member here and he said the lil box I am talkn about is the Hicus computer.. guess il be leavn that one in What I am going to do now is basically run the car with the auto ecu in stock form and see if it runs after the inhibitor is bridged.. then I will put in the manual ECU and see if it still runs, if it does tops! then after thats all clarified I will wire in the AFC II from teh manual loom into the auto loom which is identical for wires i need anyway.. Il be running a R33 Turbo, Auto Diff Centre, hks fmic, boost controller, AFCII, 5zigen exhaust system with split dump, along with some other things to make the thing stick to the road and stop like a star so hopefully I might crack 245-250rwhp from it after I am done..

bahh ur all useless hehe jus kidn so no ideas then on what I am to do with the ecu and the lil box in the drivers foot well?