RPMGTR

Squish on turbo motors is overrated !!.... :flamed:

I have a complete unit that may be what u need......... RB26DET - 3.1litre, 500rwkw on pump fuel, totally reliable/streetable...plenum, cams, forged rods/pistons, 4wd sump, motec etc...been in GTR.. hope u have deep pockets tho....let me know if ur interested. cheers, Ben

Get the Porsche.......it will be a terrific automotive lesson for you.......go on..you know you want it!!

Use Nismo GTR afm's........dimensionally the same as a std GTR afm (bolt and plug straight in), and scale like a Z32........too easy

RB26 rods are identical to RB25 in length and pin sizes....use the same bearings too....they are a great straight fit upgrade..

To run a 33GTR in RWD without ETC or Grid Dancer, you can 1. Remove the front driveshaft......takes 10 mins or 2. pull fuse or disconnect Gsensors to turn attessa off, then bleed pressure from nipple on attesssa slave cyl to remove preload ...

The return spring shown in that diagram returns the clutch pack to zero clamp pressure in both 32 and 33.....the only preload/load on the clutches is provided by the attessa slave cyl controlled by the attessa computer....the HKS drag controller(for example) allows 2wd by dropping hydraulic preload to zero in both 32 and 33..

The counterweights actually do serve a useful purpose.....they balance the reciprocating forces........which in a high revving engine is extremely important....probably moreso than balancing/lightening the rotating components...hence Jun/Tomei having fully counterweighted race cranks and lightweight pistons and rods.... Maybe those nissan engineers aren't so silly afterall............

Thats interesting....I've never noticed any mechanical differences in the 32/33 transfer cases when rebuilding them........however the 33 does seem to preload the transfer case hydraulically via the attessa system....

You will find that the pump is not at fault........we use std GTR or N1 pumps in all the street/circuit cars from 250 up to 500kw @ wheels with no probs at all.........They never get hot in traffic, can do 10 ten laps in 30degC at the track and the water stays at 85degC (even with 500kw).......best look at your radiator/airflow management instead...

A Circuit raced 2530 GTR making 300-350kw@wheels, only requires forged pistons (for a little detonation insurance) and (most important)some attention to the oiling system by an experienced RB race engine builder. Invest in suspension and brakes..........you're gonna need em........

This is your chance to purchase the best developed Street/Circuit R33GTR in Australia (World??)... THe result of 3 years ongoing, no expense spared development by RacePaceMotorsport, this car is blindingly quick, quiet and fuss free. RB31DET, 500kw @ tyres, laps Sandown in 1m15s, Calder in 59s, (using road legal 'R' tyres)...phenomenal performance with road car drivability/reliability... Engine. RB31DET Forged Pistons Carrillo rods Custom Plenum 1000cc injectors etc etc.. 500 kw @ tyres 1.4 bar boost premium unleaded Turbo. Custom Race pace Garrett 1000hp Transmission. Triple plate clutch OS Giken cross mission 5 speed Diffs. OS Giken rear LSD ATS front LSD Suspension. Top shelf Race Ohlins RacePace Custom springs/valving Extensively developed Attesa system Brakes F. 385mm rotors , 6-spot Harrop billet endurance Calipers R. 335mm rotors, 4 spot Harrop calipers. Wheels, tyres 18" x 10.5" Volk TE37 Bridgestone RE55 285/30/18 Plus way too much more to mention..... Serious enquiries only as this is a seriously fast car......If you want to dominate track/club days then this is what you need........PM me for further details.. If you want pics, just search this forum. Looking for geniune offers around $120k May consider a good road car as part trade.

Sold....

sorry, no pics.....

Pair of HKS Stainless low mount manifolds (to replace OE manifolds)... suit all T25 series turbos (std, 2530's, GT-RS etc).. EC $500pr

STD R32/R33-GTR turbos ARE bush bearing and R34-GTR ARE ball bearing..........

You'll find it is the wiring in the vehicle to the ECU that is the problem.... A couple of the pinouts require permanent power and then there is a shutdown sequence where the ign switch power is shut off to certain pinout and then the ECU then saves settings and turns itself off. Any change in this power down sequence,(different wiring, alarms, immobilisers)wil cause the symptoms you describe. Similiar to pulling the plug on a windows based PC rather than shutting it down correctly.... cheers.

Geoffrey,.... unlike most others offering advice on here, I have actually tested this swap. I've also witnessed the same results on 2 other attempts by people who believed the falacy that this is a good mod. If you like a lumpy idle, 7-8" idle vacumn, weak bottom end power, flat mid range power and a mediocre top end then this is the "upgrade" for you! As to why it doesn't work, here is the answer - Cam doctor the GTR cams at .00" valve clearance and you will find the valve is off the seat for over 300degs. That explains the lumpy idle etc. However the lift for 60+ degs of that 300degs is less than .020"(0.5mm). So bugger all airflow and a lot of reversion etc.....basically the engine is now a crap airpump and behaves as such. If Others can overcome these major shortcomings and get a performance increase, then they must be REALLY good tuners . I did actually dyno a good RB30/25 with GTR cams and it made 250rwkw, however when I tossed them and reinstalled the RB25 cams, hey presto we now have 325kws, smooth idle with 20" vac, spooled way earlier , strong mid range etc, etc. Maybe I just had a "dud" set. As for dynosheets, I do have them on the dyno harddrive, but the results were so pathetic I never even bothered to print/compare them to the final result. Maybe get the people who have such great success to show you the dynosheets of the results they are so proud of. I have yet to see any????? how about you???? I have no axe to grind here, just tired of "internet fallacies" being perpetuated. I'd much rather see you spending your time on things that actually make your car faster. cheers, B.

Save your energy guys, this swap does NOT work.......GTR cams are designed with ramps suitable for .015"-.018" clearance with solid lifters. Put them in a hydraulic lifter engine (RB20-25) with .000" clearance, and you now have longer duration, but ultra-low lift for a fair portion of that duration! Result = bad idle vacumn, crap power, etc, etc. With that said, I do have 2 sets of GTR cams for sale...$200 per pair, so if you still want to try this swap, knock yourself out. :kick: B.

I think you'll find the injectors are actually 550's.... cheers B.

Actually the TT's are the softer compound.... go the SR's, they will last considerably longer...

maybe Luke is getting shirty because he is correct...............

they have done < 10,000kms.....look and feel perfect..... no actuators..

Pair of HKS 2530's to suit GTR....EC $3000ono

So how do the 32/33 transfer cases differ??