iseekool

... almost forgot... - Seatbelts with pre-tensioners.

From the original R34 sedan brouchure (Series 1). Safety features. - Dual front airbags. - Optional front side airbags (rare) - Xenon headlights on GT-X and GTt-X models. (sometimes removed for compliance). - Traction control on all GTt and GTt-X models. - Snow mode on non-turbo auto models. - Heated mirrors. - Rear wiper. - ABS with EBA and EBD. - ATTESA on AWD models. - Anti-fog coated windscreen, mirrors and rear windscreen. (I'm pretty sure this coating would have worn out by now...) - Windscreen coated with rain repellant. (I'm pretty sure this coating would have worn out by now...) - Safety flares (most are missing by the time the car gets to Aus. and "probably" removed for compliance - I'm really not sure where they go...) - Anti-bacterial door and grab handles (???? *no idea*)

Anyone want to organise a skyline muster ???

Finish your CPA - from what I've read it seems you have gone quite far - nothing wrong with having an extra qualification regardless if you follow your accounting career or do something totally un-related/different. I'd say it would give you the edge over most people out there as the workforce now demands "multi-skilled" people and it would also serve as a fallback in case things turn to poo (hope not). I work in I.T for an international manufacturing company - It's a love/hate relationship with the job as a whole and has left me at a crossroads too. Love: Dealing with the latest technology at times. Flexible hours when I require it. Job status Knowing I get to work with computer controlled manufacturing equipment worth millions of dollars which the business relies on. (Power "high" I guess hahaha) Safe place to park my Skyline Dealling with awesome team members and "some" users. Lunch only costs me $3 - Company subsidised. Company pays for my milage when driving to and from work - so I almost drive my car for free... but (refer below) Hate: The long distance I need to travel and traffic. Driving time is roughly 1.25 to 1.5 hours - one way - the rare occassion 2 hour drive. Driving is exhausting. 3 hours wasted on the road! Pay is average - I'm comfortable (lucky I live with my folks) and get to do most things I want - but not enough money to go out and start buying my own home, considering the price of property these days. Working with some end users who are "know it all" but have no f***** idea or whinge and whine at anything and everything. Also the users that want everything "NOW". Work does get boring most days - as most of it is routine. So weighing up my options too...

Sounds like an alternator issue. Also check your belts too.

^ +1 Start it - let it idle for about 15 seconds - you can see the oil pressure build up - Drive off..... take it easy for the first 5 mins. After a hard run - granny it (warm down) for the last few Ks - also turn off the air-con too - Don't forget it's not only the engine that's hot, but everything else like brakes, trans etc.... and the airflow from driving is much more beneficial in cooling the other components.

I know this sounds like a small thing.... but best I check... I've changed the number plate light on my R34 to a white LED (T10). I'm aware any other colour is not allowed. Is this allowed? Reason I ask is because it doesn't seem as bright as the original (T10) incandesent light.

Just wondering. Has timing belt been changed?

What STATE are you located in? (as per rules)

+1 on that Could be a slight vacum leak in the brake booster, causing it to initially feel fine - then as the brakes are applied harder more vacum will leak - therefore stiff brakes and brakes that do not pull up as good. I had a similar issue on my bluebird. Changed brake boostrer and no issues since.

I too have an N/A R34 sedan. I'm looking for new wheel bearings all round and I'm getting some slight hum while driving. (I'm just a fussy owner).

+1 ecutalk is worth every cent I've installed permanently in my car.

It's for the catalytic converter overheating light.

This solves all car theft issues ---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8gUATkM3WSQ I keep a tool box full of tools in my car btw - just in case someone wants their nuts done up....

I just wouldn't bother modding it engine wise for now. Especially since you are on your Ps and you drive a VL.... Your are a cop magnet, and any modification is not recommended. Most I'd do is get a K&N panel filter and tweak the ignition timing - maybe if your budget can stretch - get a new high flow cat. Keep it stock. The rest of the money I'd put into. - Quality Tires/wheels - New shocks - Better brake pads and maybe new rotors. The trick is getting the best quailty maintenance items you can realistically afford. Stock engines aren't too bad if well maintained (and you also got the reliability etc..) - and sometimes tend to push out more power than mildly modified engines that are not being taken care of....

This link shows the different series ---> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Impreza It should help narrow down...

What model year/shape subaru??

Silver/gray R32 gtst last night along Nepean HWY with golden mesh wheels city bound around 7:15PM Pearl white R34 sedan (identical to mine) last night near the Punt Rd/St. Kilda rd junction - city bound 7:20PM - Nearly rear ended me and "seemed" to speed off.

I'd imagine the next "Supra MKV" would probably be powered by a varient of the Toyota 2GR engine with twin turbo - as opposed to a JZ engine.

I gotta admit that is 1 hot looking 4dr.... Too bad nissan didn't make R34 4drs like that off the production line. But in regards to your question. - AWD 4door models are quite rare in comparison to RWD models. - Majority are auto (not sure if that matters to you - but best you should know). - The auto trans is not a tiptronic. - Insurance is not much different. - best buy local - that way you can see it "in the flesh" - especially since most of the AWD models were from the snowy parts of Japan - You run the risk of getting a rusty car. - In it's current state the car will be no rocket - but you will have plenty of grip and great handling. - If your into wagons a Stagea "could" be a better option - you get an RB25DET and AWD - When you do eventually transform it into a "GT-R" - be prepared to have the car out of action for a while and it may cost quite alot. Good luck with it all.

I have my "own theory" on why production is at 300. - Toyota want to make the car exclusive as part of a marketing campaign. For the people that are not in the know about the ins and outs of cars would automatically assume toyota/lexus make cars FAR more superior to any other brand - seriously 1/2 million bucks for a Lexus????? (I have no doubt about quality, design and performance here... but a Lexus at this price... That's serious Ferrari money right there - sure the car maybe made out of space age materials - but you have a GT-R made of more "common materials" with similar performance) - The 300 units are production model "test beds", which showcase Toyota's technical potential which "may" filter down to general production models... who knows there maybe a MK5 Supra in the horizon. - Hard to sum it up. But the LF-A in my opinion is a gloryfied "test mule/prototype" which is being sold to the public at limited numbers. Prototype cars cost manufacturers millions of dollars to begin with, maybe that is why there is all this nonsense about Toyota losing money on each car.....

Check ignition coils. Common R34 issue. Replace with some splitfires.

If you decide to go the v35/g35 route ---> this forum will be of much help http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Se...lines-f170.html

The front thermo fan also helps with A/C in traffic and those really hot summer days. I recommend getting one just as "insurance" against overheating (I noticed you live in Adelaide and temps there get pretty hot). Not sure about R33s - but reading the genuine R34 brochure - the RB20DE NEO engines did not have termo fans - quite odd - but then again Japan doesn't get into 30s and 40s. All RB25DE and RB25DET - Had thermo fans.

^ Birds - He is from Brunei (different country) R33 or even an R34 half cut should be fine. Are you going to have an auto or manual setup? Or you can get an R34 GTT sedan. V35/G35 3.5L is pretty good - but be warned - do not get the CVT trans as it is very expensive to service and prone to problems. All early versions of the V35 3.5L sedans had CVT trans - the later revisions went to a 5 speed auto, just make sure you get the 5 speed auto version.