JonnoHR31

a boost controller cannot lower boost, only raise it. try running a new vac line directly from a boost source to the actuator with nothing else running off the same line

no there doesnt have to be a speed signal

yer theres constantly a guy at the one at wanneroo and beach roads. it looks like hes downloading the images tho, its probably full after a couple of days with the amount of people i've seen get done there.

depends what you call laggy, everyone has a different idea on what is and isnt laggy. but if its similar to a .82 single scroll on a stockish 25 you should make 18-20psi by 4000rpm under decent load (4th gear). of course theres lots of other variables too, such as boost control, exhaust, tune etc

you cant lower CR to allow for a bad tune. if theres too much timing it'll knock regardless. the only solution for that is to get it tuned properly under light load with the same timing map a higher CR motor will be more responsive

Already have a .82 IW gt30 on a standard manifolded 25. building a 30det and going hks mani so was gonna get a bigger housing with a t4 flange to suit. thanks for that. just compared them all and my manifold is closest to T4 Divided. looks like the only difference between that and T4I is the width of the flange itself and the width of the bolt holes. Now the hardest part is figuring out exactly which flange these housings for sale on various websites have.

disco, do you have any diagrams showing the dimensions of all the different flange/entry types? i've measured myne before and the ports were close enough to what was called T4 on a diagram i found. But i'm not sure i trust it

yer they're the only place i've found on the net so far. gonna try a few local places on monday

yep, myne has both. but i'm gonna buy a t4 1.06 TS housing anyway for more powaaaa on the topic, anyone know where to get these housings from at a decent price?

yes you need a wideband to do anything at all with AFR's +1 for more timing. i added more than 20 degrees timing to my light load areas after a "professional" tune, it was a completely different car to drive after that. also improves fuel economy a lot

1. buy a wideband 2. start reading and learning 3. save yourself shitloads of money by doing your own tuning, even for ethanol.

the highest gap you can run without it blowing out spark. if your coils are pretty tired you might need to gap them down to around .6. but try new .8s and see how it goes

all the same, except redtop rb20 which is a little smaller.

we're used to WA laws where theres no fine whatsoever for not running a cat

why didnt you just remove the whole motor and box together? or am i missing something here

http://www.nengun.com/apexi/straight-harness

found this one http://www.atpturbo.com/root/maps/images/t04zturbine.gif

gt35 http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...8-allturb_e.jpg unfortunately the garrett site doesnt seam to have one for the t04z, only has a compressor map.

start reading http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...tech102.html?#b

for up to ~250rwkw a highflow is a great option. direct bolt on and very responsive.

tommy kaira made one factory? n they put it in a nissan

tried helping. everyone giving good advice was told their wrong simply because the OP's personal opinion was the opposite of what most of us know as fact

are you injecting petrol or hydrogen. i'm running double that duty with bigger injectors at a lower power level

does it still do it if you pull timing? what are the afr's like? and last but certainly not least, why the hell would you run that crap they call vortex? (runs from all the vortex lovers)

you get the weather up there? everyone worried about hail needs to buy a 31, didnt leave a dent last time. tough shitter