JonnoHR31

i think the boost increase is mostly from the retarded ignition timing around that area. then the timing picks up a little in the top end. as for fuel it's probs running at 100% inj duty from around 5000-5500 all the way to limiter, so as the airflow increases a touch above that it becomes slightly less rich

very crude. safc would be a little better

exactly. and its not a sudden thing, it'll gradually get worse with more airflow. you could even say a 100% stock car is hitting r+r as it runs a little rich and the timing isnt optimum. or from another point of view you might not call it r+r until it takes less than 1 tank of fuel to turn your white rear bumper black and the combustion event is happening more in the turbine housing than the cylinder +1 for nistune

fair enough then, wasnt sure just how little load it was

he adjusted the low boost. it will not be maxxing injectors or going lean if it was tuned properly

the part i'm talking about is very light load, off boost. turbo size would be irrelevant. you could reach those sells parked in your driveway if you wanted

put new pads in the rear first and see what it does. if its too much to the rear then do the fronts in a slightly shitter/thinner pad too much front is a hell of a lot better than too much rear bias tho. locking rears before the fronts are doing much at all is rather annoying

perfecty normal for 33s. the safc will help a little but you cant completely get rid of it when running higher boost without an aftermarket ecu. the small rise in boost is normal too, its from the stupidly retarded timing around that part of the map this is my 25 when i had a stock ecu, was like hitting vtec

if your worried about it turning black then dont, its just picking up carbon like its supposed to

is that a 100% stock map? nice little jump from 16 to 53 degrees up the top also interesting how much timing they drop right around where the stock turbo hits full boost

if you bypass the solenoid and run boost directly to the actuator you should get 5psi, they're a 5psi actuator afaik. replace the solenoid and wire it for a constant 7psi

no, R+R is simply the higher airflow end of the map. from factory both the normal and knock maps are hugely rich and retarded towards the end of the map wit the knock map obviously being more retarded than the normal map. power fc's have no form of knock control whatsoever, they run whatever timing is on the map and simply flash a number if one of the knock sensors picks up something. nistune uses the factory system, with a normal map and a knock map. will run off the normal map until knock is deteced, then it'll switch over to knock maps. if the knock map is too advanced then it'll keep knocking, it wont pull out any more timing. so you have to set it up rather conservatively. pretty sure vipecs have true knock control, retarding timing until theres no more knock, this is the safest way

99% of time the problems arise when they havent been setup properly. if you take the time to read the guides on here and understand how it works then it gets pretty easy after a while to perfect. most tuners simply cbf taking the car out on the road to set it up, when i had my car tuned ages the tuner just adjusted the set and didnt put any gain into it at all. picked up a good 400rpm spool re doing it myself

but to answer your question, they can go a lot more than 1 bar. personally seen around 20psi from a 25 turbo. definately cant reccomend it tho

not unless your right on the edge power wise

sure its not just normal spooling noises? will be louder with a pod filter and smooth intake pipe

i had the exact same problem when i put my gt30 in, mbc was way too sensitive. but for a stock turbo where your realistically limited to 12psi they're perfect

probs a small spike combined with a slight difference in readings. get someone to watch it all the way to redline and see if it is a small spike or constant

its a 31 thing, myne does the same. will not budge from 69 at night time. got up to a boiling 82 out on the track

top hose is the return hose champ

definately a stock turbo yer? are you planning on racing under 2000rpm? like i said, turbotech mbc is the best for a standard turbo. ebc might get you another 50-100rpm tops, hardly worth it for $300+

it is when you can hear it spooling from 3 suburbs away just trying to casually speed up from 90-100 on the freeway

ideally you'd set it up so that it opens just far enough to hold your desired boost, that way it'll open later and bring boost on earlier. winding it in will increase the pre tension and raise boost a little bit but not much. always be careful and keep a close eye on boost. your best bet for boost control would be a turbotech mbc

yes an ebc will lower your boost threshold, but its just not worth it with a stock turbo, which the OP has. stock turbo is annoyingly responsive, having it come on earlier would be a right pain in the ass but yes, if you have a larger turbo an ebc is a good idea, as the wastegate duty required is usually a lot more sensitive than with the standard turbo

leave it open