JonnoHR31

1st sensor died pretty quick. then shortly after getting a new sensor the controller died, would constantly throw up random error codes. sent it back to innovate and they sent back a new one so i assume there was something wrong with it. now the new unit is coming up with error codes too. not really anything wrong with the way its been used, just been wired up lots of different ways and knocked around a little, but nothing that should hurt it.

you'll get nasty letters if you want to take it to court for whatever reason dont pay it. otherwise you have to pay it asap, will only cost more the longer you leave it

aslong as its before the cat you can run it further down the exhaust where it merges. havent used the vipec software but given how good everything else is i imagine the closed loop control would be a hell of a lot better than the pulsing of the standard setup. i have a lc-1 kit, they're supposed to be very good but i've had a few problems with it. might come down to the way its been used but it seams very fragile and temperamental. had it replaced once under warranty and now having similar problems again. knowing my luck tho i'll be the only person in the world having trouble with it

300-600mm

like i said its not ideal and in no way can you ganruntee it'll work for everyone, but it works well enough on my car for me to trust it. been doing it for over a year and the motors still going strong so it cant be that bad, will be pulling it apart within the next couple of weeks to go 30det, so will have a look for any signs of detonation. and yes a set and forget street tune wont be as safe as a dyno tune with proper knock detecting, but when doing your own tuning you tend to spend a shitload more time on it than any workshop does and you never let any knock go un checked, so in that way i find it safer. but once again everyones different

$200? it'd wanna be one hell of a good 30e for that. myne paid me to take it

i use the standard knock sensors. some people seam to have a lot of trouble with them picking up absolutely every noise you can imagine but myne seam to work pretty well in that it only ever produces a high number when theres too much timing. pull timing and it always goes away. the only time i get false knock readings are on limiter, but i simply ignore them as i've retarded the timing enough around limiter not to worry about knock there. at the end of the day every ecu and every set of knock sensors is going to be different. a knock box would be ideal but some of us cant afford that sort of gear for tuning 1 car

ID tag is in the centre section near the oil feed

parked car on a hill or jack it up so the front is higher. cut a coke bottle in half and shove it in the top of the radiator. fill it up with coolant with the motor running and keep topping up til the level stops dropping. keep it off boost until tuned

exactly. a wideband reads lambda, with 1 being 14.7 for petrol and around 9:1 for pure ethanol. if you leave your wideband set to petrol you can use the same figures as you would for tuning petrol, although you might be able to go a bit leaner (relative) with e85.

standard 34 housings will need machining to fit that core. best to contact a turbo specialist such as gcg, hypergear, mtq etc

actually at 12:1 even so, aslong as the injectors arent close to maxxing its fine. without inj duty you cant tell how close they're running to the limit. nothing dangerous about running stock injectors at 100% if it was at 11:1, means you'd have to consume 10% more air just to come back to a normal AFR, 20% before it starts getting dangerous.

aslong as they're not massive yer they're normal. wouldnt hurt to have it machined while its out. but probs too late now if you've balanced everything

if you do your research and keep to the safe side theres no reason you cant do your own tuning when you switch to ethanol mixes. its the way i did it and my tune is better than it ever has been

no point spending money on a wideband if your still gonna pay a workshop to tune it. either buy a wideband and tune it yourself or spend the money on just a tune.

boost controller can give you anywhere from 5psi to 30psi for most of them

my old aus spec 31 had over 380 on the old 30e, probs has over 450 now current 25 has around 120 on it, assuming half cut was accurate, has more k's than the car its in even tho its ~8 years younger....

i got kicked out of bunnings once for not having shoes on. i couldnt believe it. seams to be against the law to be a good ol aussie barefoot bogan these days

right sized meaning not too small. the nismos are a quality injector and wont have any trouble providing a decent mix at idle with 740s. you'd be mad to buy 555s when 740s are similar/same price. you allways want more power in the future

no fpr, use the stocker. MTQ are a garrett distributor and had no trouble supplying me a gt3076 with the garrett housing, they also machined the gate to make it a bit larger to make sure it didnt creep. i bought nismo 555s and went with the IW option on the stocker manifold. now going external gate and probably bigger injectors, if i had my time again i'd go external from the start. just something to think about

amen. only way atm is to buy drums at around $4/L cant wait to start tuning with it when it finally does make it here

where did you get the wheel alignment? a decent place will make it drive straight and if they cant will explain why

rb30 plug is exactly the same

i got myne from sean at kensei garage. not a huge fan but my dad got it for me as he knows him. try them, autoworx etc etc otherwise a few of the online shops have them. try justjap, nengun etc or even sau traders

and they're made by bosch but used by nissan. last time i got a price through coventrys it was more than double the price of anywhere else brand new. dont pay anymore than $300