JonnoHR31

used but its just the turbine housing and spacers, studs nuts etc. would need to buy a new cartridge (they come without a turbine housing anyway). pm me if interested

got myne through mtq with a larger wastegate fitted to get rid of any chance of creep, have it for sale atm if your interested

dunno bout every voltage but it should be close enough. im assuming when you enter +.18 into the power fc it just uses the same correction accross the board

it varies a lot. i maxxed standard injectors on cold morning at 185rwkw on a slightly lower reading dyno with a conservative tune. other people make 250rwkw no problems, all depends

nismo 555s are .18 higher latency than factory. from my very vague memory factory is .63 and nismo are .81 or something like that

just finished fitting myne and it was the hardest job i've ever done, the physical size of the housing makes doing up housing bolts and oil/water feeds near impossible, ended up having to leave one of the compressor housing bolts out because even when fully tightened it fouled on the turbine housing flange in the position i need it. the design leaves a little to be desired but it should work alright, will see how it goes shortly.

err no, if you use the wrong latency the car will be spot on at WOT but way off at idle. the ecu calculates the amount of fuel required from its maps, then figures out how long the injector needs to spray fuel for, then adds the latency and pulses the injector for that long. so if you set the latency to 0 but the injector takes 1ms to open before it starts spraying fuel and the ecu thinks it needs 2ms of fuel at idle its only gonna pulse for 2ms, giving you 1ms of fuel, whereas if you set the latency properly it'll pulse for 3ms, giving the correct 2ms of fuel. at a constant voltage the latency never changes for a given injector, hence why it has more effect on idle than WOT

most aggressive merger always wins

.82 3076 IW 250rwkw @ 17psi, all in by 3700-3800 in 3rd and up did you even see the dyno results thread at the top of this forum?

but if its not the main pump it wont be dangerous, it'll either flow enough to feed the surge or it wont, in which case the car wont run. my intank pump has died twice (bad wiring) and the car simply drives until the surge tank empties and then dies

check voltage at the pump. check for leaks and blockages in the lines and make sure the fuels not getting too hot

if your running a surge tank you dont want a powerful efi pump in the tank, keep the stocker in there

35r for someone chasing response with a standard block? a .82 gt3076 has been proven good for 280-300rwkw in most setups, more than enough on a stock blocked daily. i have a spacer and internal gate housing etc as a kit if you decide to go that way, pm me if interested

even if boost was the same the intake charge would be colder, which would mean more air. this would be picked up by the IAT sensor and affect the fuel and timing. so ends up doing the same thing as a setup with an afm

factory 25 is 3x1.5mm feeds afaik. so if your blocking the vct then leave the other 2 and it should be about right. altho if your using the 25 block you dont have to block the vct feed, just unplugging the solenoid would work.

personally i'd go a gt30 turbo, but thats me. it all depends how much power you want later and what sort of boost threshold your after. the cheapest decent quality manifolds around are probably the old hks low mount ones, i picked one up for 800 with a gate and screamer, strongest manifold i've ever seen. 6boost etc are good manifolds but with a new gate aswell they're close to 2k rb26 or rb30 headgasket, lewis engines have old stock genuine 26 gaskets going real cheap at the moment

if you have nothing to hide then post boost graphs for all 3, should reveal whats really going on.... good result simon, where did you get it tuned?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?S...tegory_Code=GTH could buy something like this then get a shop to finish it off, expensive tho. or give kermit a call on 0422 549 050

doesnt really matter but factory setup has the reg at the front of the rail

yes, plugs are different. s1 is green sticker, same as silvertop rb20

i thought it was just a sticker over here and no on the spot fines like over east? or has it been changed?

the part that fouls with the water jacket is the feed not the return

your joking right, the leak was from the cam covers? by your logic you could plumb your oil pressure gauge into the pcv piping and it should be accurate.....

7L stroker rb30?

ignore their website in this case, i tried all of recommended setups i found on all sorts of sites and none worked. wired it up delta but without the option selected and used a seperate earth for atleast the heater ground and it worked perfectly. just keep trying different setups until it works